Fleck 5600 (18 years old) needs replacing Quoted High!

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by Rockin Rog, Oct 1, 2013.

  1. Rockin Rog

    Rockin Rog New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Ontario Canada
    Water System (1).jpg Water System (2).jpg Water System (3).jpg Water System (4).jpg Water System (5).jpg

    Hi, first off I'm Northern Ontario Canada near the US border so ordering in the US is an option if needed.

    Anyways I've owned a Fleck 5600 model unit with a separate smaller tank that has a Venturi Valve and Braukmann Automatic Air Vent on the top of the tank plus a separate brine tank. At one time we were drawing water from a Cistern well located at ground level on our farm and had some nasty smelly iron sulfur water. My understanding is that the air tank removed the smell.
    Fast forward today we have a 100ft drilled well with water that is cleaner on a 1.5 inch supply line that is about 30 (3 elbows) feet in length to the water softener.

    My Venturi failed where the spring inside disintegrated causing water to shoot out of the air intake hole and caused a small flood in the basement. Our service tech came and in the process managed to cause my main tank head unit to fail and in response said that perhaps the resin is now in the head valves and causing the issue where the manual control dial is impossible to turn.

    Regardless I was not impressed because 2 weeks previous another tech had done an inspection for 180.00 dollars and missed the spring issue and was already in the head unit.
    My softener is now in by-pass mode as I make a decision for them to install a newer 2-tank digital unit for 2100.00 dollars or purchase a Fleck 5600 tank and head with a brine tank for just under 500 bucks or for 220.00 bucks I can rebed the resin and get a 5600 rebuild kit!

    I'm unaware of the model system they want to sell and install for 2100.00 dollars but what do you think of my options? I'm thinking that the new tank-head and brine tank deal for 500.00 with warranty isn't a to bad option but I can simply do the rebed myself without issue aswell.

    Also to note my current Brine Tank doesn't have a brine grid in it...after reading about them and what they do I am not impressed that mine didn't come with one as I've always had to take my tank outside and knock the hard cavity out and clean the unit. For paying over 5000.00 dollars for what I have I'm thinking hmmm.

    If I do buy the new 5600 system that includes the Brine Tank should I keep the aerator in the system as per usual or do I need it? I thinking I keep it in the flow. What is in that tank anyways such as media etc...I'd like to service it or change the media when possible?

    Anyways thanks for now...Roger.
  2. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    You need water tests done to find out what equipment you need. I see a UV light, that is for Coliform bacteria. Air injection is usually for iron and/or H2S (sulfur). The softener is for hardness.

    You can buy all the parts for a 5600 online for $100+/- and resin for $80-125 or so and repair the valve and replace the resin yourself. If resin is up in the valve, that can be cleaned out without the need of new parts in many cases.
  3. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

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    Location:
    Maine
    Ill side with rebuilding the valve.
  4. Rockin Rog

    Rockin Rog New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Ontario Canada
    Hey, Gary yes I had cloriform at one time when we were drawing water from the original surface Cistern well and we became sick for a time so the UV light I bought and installed since that time. At present we now draw water from a 100 foot drilled well and our water has improved however I'm hesitant to remove the light because of that incident.

    As was suggested from you and Tom I did contact a Florida site and spoke with the owner Matt and through our conversation recently he did offer the Fleck 5600 rebuild kit and resin for just over 200 dollars which again I was pleased because my service tech here in Northern Ontario wanted 200 dollars for just the piston, seals and spacers so this savings alone was pleasantly appealing.

    My water test which was done from my service company that I've dealt with up here in Canada showed that we needed the aerator, standard resin due to iron/sulfur content but how much they didn't give me numbers. Also I was told that I could have upgraded the resin to remove sulfur etc.

    Regardless I ordered a Fleck 5600SXT Electronic Metered On Demand Control Valve Water Softener 40000 Grain Capacity with Vortech Tank to replace my system completely because the price was hard to say no. It appears to do what I need and I have a warranty if that should matter. I'm keeping my air injector tank and UV light in the mix thus I'm very happy.

    So again thanks Gary and Tom for your suggestions as I will be repairing my original Fleck 5600 and selling it aswell! I'll post result pics later when I get er done....
  5. DonL

    DonL Out of the Trades

    Messages:
    3,942
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    My experience with that model was with the timer motor.

    It would not have the power to operate the valve properly and may stick between cycles.

    I would check to see if your timer is making noise, and if it is just replace that. The valve is likely OK.


    I am no expert, just been there and done that. I repaired my timer motor but you can get them for a price.


    Why would you sell your problems to another person ?
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  6. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,824
    Location:
    Ontario California
    FYI, that is a 110 Volt 5600, the 110V motors were and still are very good. The 24 volt motors have always been problematic for longevity. in general the 24V motors may need replacing as often as every 5-10 years, the 110V seem to last indefnitely. Changing the motor is a breeze, less than 5 minutes if it is needed.

    The UV light is a good idea for pure safety reasons, their is certainly no disadvantage to it. be sure to change the bulb annually and to inspect the quartz sleeve to determine a cleaing schdule for that as well. Order a couple of extra o-rings for the sleeve when you order the bulb. It is cheap insurance. The quartz sleeve is also easily replaced and is fairly inexpensive.

    I would consider updating your softener valve to a metered design. you have a timeclock, the meters are more efficient and less wasteful.
  7. DonL

    DonL Out of the Trades

    Messages:
    3,942
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    The 120V motors do go bad also. After 10 years at 24/7, not bad.

    I guess the only reason they changed to 24V, is so they can run a electronic controller also.

    Seems like the only timer motors available now at a cheap price are 24V. It would be easy to add a transformer for use with a older unit, that originally has a 120V motor.

    I think the RPMs are the same, or close . ?
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  8. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,824
    Location:
    Ontario California
    The 24 volt is for use when electrical outlets are not nearby. Code does not allow for the installation of an extension cord. 24V is currently considered low voltage and thus has very little restriction on cord length or how it is run.

    The 110V motors last much better than the 24V, both cost the same, but... many companies buy knock-off motors and since the 24 volt are replaced more often, that is what most companies buy in mass bulk at a very low price and they resell them at a low price.
  9. Rockin Rog

    Rockin Rog New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Ontario Canada
    Hi Donl and Dittohead, anyhow Donl I didn't think I was going to pass along a problematic softener after I repaired it with the rebuild kit and new resin bed since that is what appears is wrong. I did have the timer motor replaced on it about 2 or 3 years ago so that is fairly new. The brine tank is an 18x30 or whatever.
    To my understanding that is all that is wrong with my current softener as was stated from the service technician that services my softener here in Northern Ontario Canada, where I was concerned the day the service tech was in was the quote for the teflon valve was as much as me purchasing the rebuild kit and resin from another source. The resin rebuild quote was more than me purchasing a new 5600sxt system shipped!

    Obviously I went with a new 5600sxt from a US source plus I'm buying the rebuild kit and resin for my original 5600 for less than my service quote! In the end I had to make a moral decision of whether to support a US business or a Canadian business, my budget also played a large part in this decision so I went with my choices.

    To Dittohead I see that you mentioned I have a 110v head, I assume because I'm plugged into a wall socket that is how you came to that conclusion correct! Aswell I do purchase the UV lights annually and they do come with the rubber o-rings however the quartz sleeve is my concern as I've noticed it becoming slightly rust stained and I clean it quite good however I think I need to find out where to get one.
    Also you mention that I could change my original Fleck 5600 softener valve to a metered design. Interesting! More info on this is my challenge!
  10. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,824
    Location:
    Ontario California
    First, thanks for being diligent in properly maintaining your water treatment equipment. I cant tell you how many places I have been to where the UV bulb is 10 years old, and the customer refuses to change it because it still lights up... sigh.

    The quartz sleeve should be replaced every few years if you see it start to etch from regular cleaning. You can measure it and replace it based on size. If you et me a picture of it, I may be able to figure out a part number for you as well.

    The 5600 valve uses industry standard 2-1/2 x 8 threads. You could easily replace the 5600 with either a 5600SXT or 5600 econominder electromechanical control valve without any replumbing. The tank would need to be able to move forward a few inches to accommodate the meter. The drain, inlet/outlet are all the same. You could also use the 2510, profloo(5000) with minor replumbing (valve height is slightly higher, drain is relocated).

    http://www.pentairwatertreatment.com/en-us/Products/ResidentialControlValves/

    Here is a link to the Fleck valves.
  11. Rockin Rog

    Rockin Rog New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Ontario Canada
    Thanks Dittohead, I went and ordered 2 Rainfresh R830QD Quartz Domes price each at 45.00 from a etailer on Manitoulin Island Ontario which is about 175 kilometers from me so that's great. I did have the Rainfresh UV system for a few years now and have been buying the lights online from **** for about 45 bucks a piece.
    Have a look again if you don't mind for the Quartz and if you happen to find em cheaper I'll pick a couple more up now rather than later.

    Anyhow, I got to looking into my system and I think I found what first tank from the main water supply is called! It's likely an Aqua Aerator and part of my NO-CHEM install I had at the beginning of time 18 years ago. Again at that time I had a ground level Cistern Well that was likely accepting run-off from my horse barn uphill...hence the UV light.

    This AA as you can see has a Mazzie Injector as I've found with Venturi valve. Now my question for you or other water scientists is this...what do you think is in the the tank for media? I'd like to replenish it myself is why. What I can say is at the time of the install I had Sulfur, Tannin obviously.
    My water now is not even close to the state of the water I had back then since the new drilled well however I am awaiting the water test results so those figures can state better what to do when I get those.

    One more thing from a newbie standpoint, have a look at my Brine Tank picture and notice the level of salt...when it's like that does one always replenish the salt about 3/4 to the top of the tank or? That I never knew the answer for....I was assuming all the time and did top it up yes.

    Water Oct 6th 2013 (1).jpg Water Oct 6th 2013 (2).jpg Water Oct 6th 2013 (3).jpg
  12. DonL

    DonL Out of the Trades

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    Location:
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    No reason to keep the salt up to the top.

    When plastic gets old it can crack under a lot of stress. Just keeping it above the water line is fine. I babysit mine.


    The older stuff is a lot stronger than the new plastic crap.
  13. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,824
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Actually, the newer plastics used in many brine tanks is a lot stronger than the older materials. Older square brine tanks would look pregnant the first month they were installed 25 years ago, the newer ones do much better. The internals of the brine tanks have also greatly improved over the years, (as long as we are talking about real companies equipment, not the junk a few of the big box stores sell). I am sure many of us remember the brass brine valves and safety floats that were common 25 years ago. These were terrible and would fail constantly. Once they were replaced with glass filled noryl and other high tech plastics, they became extremely reliable.

    Lets get the water test. Then we can make recommendations.

    Usually, the salt tank is simply filled to the top every 6-12 months depending on usage. The salt level should always be kept above the water level.
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