Does shower faucet stem packing nut need to be removed before removing the stem ?

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Carlegeo

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The stand up shower, with 2 faucets, has a stem similar to or same as price pfister 910-0130.

I need to replace the stem washer on the end, perhaps the seat.

===> Do I need to remove the packing nut first with the deep socket that would fit it before
removing the stem itself ?

(I don't want to replace or repair the packing nut unless it really is a problem in itself)


It seems like the deep socket that will fit onto the stem part itself
looks like it won't get caught or interfered with by the packing nut
but not clear on that.

Pfister has said both that it needs to be removed and that it does not, at different times.

In various articles/videos I've seen sometimes it says to remove it, sometimes not.


I don't know if the reason for removing it might be to make sure the deep socket for the stem
itself does not get hung up by the packing nut or for some other reason ?

==> I'd rather not remove it if not needed since this will be first time am doing this.


Thanks - carlgeo
 

hj

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Typically, the packing nut does not have to be removed from most stems, unless the stem has to unscrew through the packing to come out. Pfister stems do not need the packing removed, for any reason.
 

Carlegeo

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Typically, the packing nut does not have to be removed from most stems, unless the stem has to unscrew through the packing to come out. Pfister stems do not need the packing removed, for any reason.

hj, thanks for this information.

I hope its ok to ask a question related to this overall task but not about the packing nut itself vs starting a new thread ?

1. I put the deep socket into the stem, not at the packing nut but further down (stem was open most of the way before I took off the handle and estucheon)

2. The stem itself was in the way of using the 2 holes in the deep socket to
put a screwdriver in to be able to use the leverage of the screwdriver to unscrew the stem. That is, the screwdriver fit into
the holes but the stem was in the way of it going thru with enough clearance. thus turning the screwdriver in this way
would have put pressure on the stem and given me no leverage in any case.

3. I tried a vise grip (the adjustable wrench I have is not big enough for the circumfurence of the deep socket.

and tried to turn it and met with a lot of resistance. The vise grip seemed to hold onto the deep socket, it was not slipping off it.

4. This is where my courage failed me, this being the first time have tried this in spite of reading
many articles, watching videos and reading many posts on this site.

5. I realize that some force is needed to do this, but was afraid of damaging the pipe in the wall or
having stem break off or some other disaster.

I'm not super strong either so realize that might have been a limitation also.


===> My question is - does it just take more force to be used

or also is using a vise grip not a good idea in any case ?

Thanks again.
 

Winslow

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hj, thanks for this information.

I hope its ok to ask a question related to this overall task but not about the packing nut itself vs starting a new thread ?

1. I put the deep socket into the stem, not at the packing nut but further down (stem was open most of the way before I took off the handle and estucheon)

2. The stem itself was in the way of using the 2 holes in the deep socket to
put a screwdriver in to be able to use the leverage of the screwdriver to unscrew the stem. That is, the screwdriver fit into
the holes but the stem was in the way of it going thru with enough clearance. thus turning the screwdriver in this way
would have put pressure on the stem and given me no leverage in any case.

3. I tried a vise grip (the adjustable wrench I have is not big enough for the circumfurence of the deep socket.

and tried to turn it and met with a lot of resistance. The vise grip seemed to hold onto the deep socket, it was not slipping off it.

4. This is where my courage failed me, this being the first time have tried this in spite of reading
many articles, watching videos and reading many posts on this site.

5. I realize that some force is needed to do this, but was afraid of damaging the pipe in the wall or
having stem break off or some other disaster.

I'm not super strong either so realize that might have been a limitation also.


===> My question is - does it just take more force to be used

or also is using a vise grip not a good idea in any case ?

Thanks again.

Make sure the water is off and the stem is open (the bibb washer is not compressed against the seat.) This will not only make removal easier it wil also ensure you don't strip the threads in the valve body. Some valves like harcraft for example have fine soft threads and trying to remove the stem in the closed position can strip the valve body. The Kohler valvet system is another example.
 
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hj

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MOre pressure will do it, as long as you are trying to rotate it counterclockwise. Make sure the stem is REALLY all the way open. Otherwise, when removing the stem, the different thread pitches of the stem and the bonnet will cause it to bind and could damage the body, but, when you install the new stem, if you mess up and the stem contacts the seat before the bonnet is tight, you WILL "punch" out the internal membrane and that WILL require replacing the faucet.
 
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