Crack in threads of female pipe

[Spy10021]

I am hoping that someone (anyone!) might help me.

Yesterday I removed the arm to my shower from the pipe in the wall). After it was removed the arm, I took a flashlight to look into the hole and discovered a 3/4" crack through the threads of the female pipe (the crack is parellel to the pipe, perpendicular to the threads.....) The crack even extends a bit (1/8 inch) past the threads.

Is there any way for me to repair this without having to hire a plumber? Am I being too optimistic to hope that there exists a way to repair with a clamp or solder? If it would work, I'm even willing to solder the new arm into the pipe in the wall (knowing I'm just putting of the inevitable.)

This (my first home) was built in the mid-1950's the pipe are metal (galvinized?) I have become fairly handly at basic home repairs, so am not shy to try anything that anyone may suggest.

Short of hiring a plumber (or finding a husband!) is there any hope?

Thanks!!

Cindy

 

[Plumber1]

cracked

Did you remove the arm because you have a leak?

Was that shower subjected to freezing?

Hard to believe that fitting in the wall is cracked, even after 55 years.....

If its really cracked it will need to be replaced.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Spy10021]

Is there really no alternative??

I removed the arm because it looked like it was 50 years old - my desire to replace the arm was purely cosmetic.

This is my 2nd shower, therefore I've only used it a few time since buying the house this summer.

And yes, unfortunately it really is cracked....

 

[Cass]

It will have to be replaced . You can get to it from the shower side or the other. Does it happen to back up to a closet?

 

[Spy10021]

Crack pipe - what will this cost?

The wall it abuts is a double bricked exterior wall.

The only way to the pipe is through my bathroom wall - tiles, then plaster, then boards.

What do you think this might cost to repair? The plumber that I was recommended charges $130/hr (I live in SW Connecticut.)

 

[Bob NH]

Welcome to home ownership. Dig right in and fix it yourself. You will save about $300.

The plumbing is the easy part. If you make the hole you should be able to replace the elbow. As a home owner, you will save much if you get the tools and learn how to use them. Ask male friends if you need more strength. Most guys will consider it an act of chivalry to help a lass in need. It's their wives you will have to worry about.

You will have to remove the tile, probably two wide by 2 or 3 high below the hole. Some may break. If you sacrifice the one at the hole, you may be able to salvage the rest with careful work with a putty knife. Dig out the grout before you try to pry out the tile. You will need the most width to the left of the fitting as you are facing it.

If you smash one tile pretty good with a light hammer you should be able to get the pieces out without breaking the others. Then you can work on the others.

If you can't match the colors, go for something that will make a decent contrast.

After you get the tile out you need to attack the backing to make a big enough hole for the pipe wrenches.

You will need to get two pipe wrenches into the hole; one to hold the lower pipe and one to turn the elbow off. That will be the tough part. That is where the strong armed friend will come in handy. It is very important to avoid turning the pipe below so you don't break something loose there.

After you replace the elbow, which is probably a 1/2" threaded galvanized elbow (don't forget teflon tape or pipe dope), you need to patch the wall.

You can patch the hole with most any kind of wood pieces for backing and plaster of paris to build up the base for the tile. Plaster of paris sets up quickly. I have even stuffed the hole with wadded up newspaper to hold the plaster of paris. Wet the surrounding area a bit before the plaster of paris goes in so it will bond well.

Then a bit of tile cement (mastic), and tile and grout. You can do a pretty good job on tile with a glass cutter and a pair of pliers if you need to make a notch for the pipe.

 

[Finnegan]

I agree with Bob. You said this is your second shower. Take your time and give it a shot. If you mess up, you can always pay someone to clean up the mess.

 

[Bob NH]

It is probably a cast iron bath tub. Put some padding in it, and on the top under the shower, so you don't drop a hammer or wrench on it and chip the enamel.

 

[Jimbo]

If you smash one tile pretty good with a light hammer you should be able to get the pieces out without breaking the others. Then you can work on the others.

This is a good way to crack a lot of tiles.

You really should get a little grout scraper and remove as much grout as possible from any tiles you plan to break out.

 

[Spy10021]

Thank You!!

I truly appreciate everyone's advice. I am going to give it a shot this weekend. (I have teflon tape, putty, wrenches and am ready to go....)

I am fortunate that the shower arm is approx. 4 inches ABOVE the start of the tile, so I believe I can avoid damaging tiles.

TWO QUESTIONS:

1. How do I break though the old fashion diagonal plaster boards neatly? (I want to minimize my damage to the wall.)

2. What am I going to find when I make this hole in the wall? Am I correct to guess that the shower arm fit into an elbow (the broken pipe) that is behind the wall and that the elbow is hooked to a larger pipe? If that is so, then this elbow is what I need to replace.

Thanks! Cindy

 

[Cass]

It will be 1/2" copper pipe and a brass 1/2" sweat X 1/2" FIP elbow OR a peice of 1/2" galvanized pipe with a 90 degree elbow. You should be able to tell by looking at the elbow. Galvanized will be rusting brass won't be. If you can't tell try and find a small magnet and see if it will stick to the elbow.

 

[Bob NH]

What Is Behind the Wall

The best way to make a hole is to drill a hole at a corner of where you want to cut out and use a "keyhole" saw or a power saber saw with a fine blade. You don't need anything as large as a Sawzall. If you have real plaster to go through, the power saber saw will be a big help. A keyhole saw is a hand saw with a short stiff blade that is small at the end to go through the starting hole. For your work, a small one with a short blade is the best.

If you have iron pipe as you have said you believe, there will be an elbow screwed to another iron pipe. You will need to put one wrench on the elbow and another on the pipe just below the elbow. You will simultaneously pull on the top wrench with your right hand and the bottom wrench with your left hand so you will avoid turning the pipe below.

It it's copper as mentioned by Cass, you will need a torch to get it off. If it's copper, the pipe will be smaller than the one that holds the shower head. If it's iron, it will probably be the same size as the pipe that holds the shower head.

 

[Cass]

If you use a jig saw and any part of the bottom of it is going to contact the tile, cover the tile with duct tape first. Then when you are done the entyre job just peel off the tape. This prevents scratches on the tile.