coupler on Main drain line with crack + - 1/4 "

[rick2995]

Hello
4' ABS line in crawl-space has coupler on line about 3-feet from inside-wall of concrete foundation
The coupler is cracked with the spread about 1/4' on top and narrrows to -0- spread half-way down visual of interior line is Great...a slow flow will not seep while a fast flow from flush of toilet will cause out-flow.
For the repair I purchased two couplers and 3'ft x 4" line.... I visoned the proposed repair as similar to joining PVC sch 40 pipe-with a coupler.
em I in the ball-park..? Should I buy the threaded coupler nstead ..?? Thanks for the help..
I'll try to attach photo.
Rick

 

[hj]

You are in the ballpark, IF, you know how to get the coupling into the pipe, unless it will move enough to separate the two pieces.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[rick2995]

Good morning HJ...Thanks for the early wake-up call

The movement ..if " none" is my concern as well , So if I find there is No-Movement,,, Do you sense the "threaded Couplers will be a better choice over the slip-coupler.?? . I rather pay $ 10-bucks for a thredaded coupler then stuggle, fuss and kick a Air-duct.
Do I glue ..? or just dry-slip pipes and couplers to gether..? I have ABS black

Next qstn.. I noticed the cut end-width of the New-ABS Pipe is wider than the Stop-Line inside the Coupler.. Will this hamper the smooth flow of waste intended..? Is that a a standard situation or is there a line with Tappered-ends... that when inserted into a coupler the line and coupler becomes Flush and a smooth consistentcy is the end-result..
Thanks...
Rick

 

[SacCity]

No the threaded couplers would need more movement than slip couplers.
If no movement available then need a repair coupling, ie has no dividing ring in the center
or a rubber repair coupling secured with two hose clamps as this is out of the ground would need one with a metal band around it,
Michael

 

[Jadnashua]

You might be better off with a couple of no-hub connectors as described above. The likelyhood you could separate the pipe enough to install a conventional coupler is slim, and you have to work fast to get a repair coupling on, and that may be tough for a novice. If you loosen the band and the clamps, you'll be able to slide or fold the no-hub on the pipe, place it in position, then fold or slide the thing onto the existing pipe, locate the band and clamps around the rubber, and tighten it up. Getting the pipe ends cut nice and square can be a pain, depending on the tools and skill you have. deburr the inside and outside edges to prevent it catching things.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

I agree with Jim- just cut out the section with the leak and put in your new pipe with a pair of banded no-hub couplers.

 

[rick2995]

Thank you Michael..for the tip and advise. .The Rubber repair was thought of however Couplers and New pipe has a better eye-ball appeal to go with the dirt that is seen once every 25-yrs.
..I notice your location is Sacramento.. I am in El Dorado Hills catch me at email 2995W@sbcglobal.net.

 

[rick2995]

Jadnashua.. "Jim" Your response is very much informative and will use should I go with the repair-slip with bands..Many, Many thanks.

 

[rick2995]

Test, Don't guess thats a phase we should all go by... Thank you for your encouragment, Many, Many Thanks.