Converting Electric Box to a Standard Outlet

[DMY]

I have an electrical junction box with a black, a white, and a ground
wire (110v) which
feeds a couple OLD fluorescent lights that are recessed in my
kitchen. I'd like to convert this box to a standard outlet so
that I can install a "plug and play" LED fixture. Can I just
connect this wiring to an outlet ? How should I install an
outlet in this box ? Any pointers are greatly appreciated !

thanks

 

[Reach4]

How should I install an
outlet in this box ?

Maybe post a photo of the "junction box". Or just replace that with an outlet box.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

Without a bit more info, it's hard to say, but you probably can install a receptacle there. The in/out leads may or may not be switched, so that might be a consideration. If this is a switched leg, without constant power, things may not work as in that case, the color code isn't actually representing what's there.

 

[DMY]

Maybe post a photo of the "junction box". Or just replace that with an outlet box.

heres a photo

 

[DMY]

heres a photo

I'm hoping this is just standard 110v/120v power in this box ? It is powering 4 fluorescent lights serially wired.

 

[Reach4]

See https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/metallic-electrical-boxes.83660/ including #12.

 

[Jadnashua]

Are all of those light fixtures controlled by a switch? If so, depending on whether the power is sourced at the switch, or at one of the lamps, it could be a switch leg, and not have a neutral available. IF that's true, then, no, you cannot add a receptacle in that box.

If you have a multimeter, turn the switch on, then check power between the white and ground, then the black and ground. If it's the same, it's a switch leg. If in either position of the switch, you get 120vac between black and white, and black and ground, then there's power there all of the time, and you can patch in a receptacle.

 

[DMY]

Are all of those light fixtures controlled by a switch? If so, depending on whether the power is sourced at the switch, or at one of the lamps, it could be a switch leg, and not have a neutral available. IF that's true, then, no, you cannot add a receptacle in that box.

If you have a multimeter, turn the switch on, then check power between the white and ground, then the black and ground. If it's the same, it's a switch leg. If in either position of the switch, you get 120vac between black and white, and black and ground, then there's power there all of the time, and you can patch in a receptacle.

thank you for your feedback. I can say that there are three switches in my kitchen that all control the
power to these fluorescent lights. Pretty silly - a couple are 10 feet apart. I'll test

 

[Jadnashua]

FWIW, that junction box may not even be connected to your existing lights.

 

[DMY]

FWIW, that junction box may not even be connected to your existing lights.

Existing light is about 10 inches from this box and I can see how all 4 fluorescent lights are wired serially.

 

[DMY]

The box in the photo is 10 inches from my light and the only input into my 4 serially connected fluorescent fixtures. All the ballasts are failing so I'm ripping them all out and replacing with led bulbs. I can hardwire, or I can somehow wire in an outlet receptacle to accept a standard plug from the LED fixture.

 

[JerryR]

I removed ballasts from several Florescent fixtures, kept the fixtures and only replaced the 4” bulbs with these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJT13RC/
It takes a little rewiring of the sockets but they work great. I did them almost 3 years ago and no failures.

I did almost 20 bulbs.