Can I tape a backerboard joint while tiling it, and is there any reason that a glass shower pane ca

[arkanos]

I'm installing GoBoard for a shower which uses a liquid adhesive as the joint compound (instead of thinset and tape). However, for the drywall transition, the manufacturer recommends the cement board joint method- alkali resistant tape and thinset.

I'm going to be tiling over the drywall/GoBoard transition. Is there any reason I can't tape it and tile it in the same pass? Otherwise it just seems like a waste of time and money to do it on its own, let it dry, then tile.

In addition, the joint is going to be where a glass shower pane will be lined up and anchored. Any issue with this? Or should the joint and glass anchor points be offset?

 

[Jeff H Young]

done a little tile work here and there but might want to ask a tile man or manufacture of product. might be a section on these forums for other trades?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[wwhitney]

So with Goboard, the butt joints within the wet area get a continuous bead of one of the approved sealants as the board is installed, with the joint squeezed tight and the squeeze out troweled flat into a band on both sides of the joint. And the screws get covered with sealant that is also troweled out into like a 2" dimeter circle.

The transition to drywall should be outside the wet area, and the tile should extend outside the wet area as well (including a tub leg if there is a tub involved).. Since the fixed glass partition presumably defines the transition from wet to dry area, the go board should extend past the fixed glass partition into the dry area.

Then for the dry area drywall-go board joint, no reason why you can't makeup the thinset/mesh tape joint as you are tiling that area, e.g. with a bullnose tile or metal edging or whatever.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[arkanos]

The tile is only extending 2" past the glass pane, and I'm trying to keep the joint under the tile to avoid having to mud and finish the goboard/drywall joint for painting. That leaves a hair of wiggle room- I can extend the goboard up 1" beyond the pane before it starts turning into a pain (haha, puns) to account for the 2" wide tape.

The goboard manufacturer actually recommends leaving a 1/8" gap between boards that you press sealant into- not tight joints. Do you do it otherwise? Any issues with tight joints instead of joints with gaps?

Thanks for your insight!

 

[wwhitney]

OK, I misremembered, you don't need to squeeze them tight, but you do want some squeeze out, or else go back and add more sealant, either way troweling it flat on either side of the joint.

With your 2" limitation, splitting the difference with go board 1" past the glass is a fine way to go. And the mesh tape could lap only 3/4" onto the drywall to give you more margin. Make sure you have solid backing behind the location of the glass , and that whoever installs the glass knows it's there.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[arkanos]

OK, I misremembered, you don't need to squeeze them tight, but you do want some squeeze out, or else go back and add more sealant, either way troweling it flat on either side of the joint.

With your 2" limitation, splitting the difference with go board 1" past the glass is a fine way to go. And the mesh tape could lap only 3/4" onto the drywall to give you more margin. Make sure you have solid backing behind the location of the glass , and that whoever installs the glass knows it's there.

Cheers, Wayne

Thanks for the advice!