Bigger washer drain - 1.5 to 2"

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by tkeahi, Feb 14, 2007.

  1. tkeahi

    tkeahi New Member

    Messages:
    3
    My washing machine presently drains into a copper 1.5" standpipe which goes though a CMU wall and tees into a vertical 1.5" copper drain (see attached picture). At the slab the copper connects to cast iron in what looks to be a lead and oakum joint. Right at the joint it actually looks like 2" copper pipe connected with a reducer to the 1.5".

    I'd like to make it all 2" so that I can add a laundry sink and eventually a kitchen sink, but first I need to figure out the easiest way to adapt the cast to 2" ABS pipe.

    I've searched the forums and found lots of good information on drilling/replacing lead and oakum joints, but I was wondering if there is an easier way: Can I just unsolder the reducer (I hope that's a reducer I'm looking at) and then use a coupler to connect 2" ABS to the copper stub?

    Assuming I can get it all changed over to 2" pipe, my plan is a 2x2x2 tee directed through the original, enlarged hole in the hollow tile wall and a 2x1.5x1.5 tee on top of that to go to the laundry sink. Is there any other way to do it so that I don't have to drill a new hole through the concrete masonry unit wall?

    All of this is in a single story, 40 year old house. Thanks for any advice or tips you might have.

    Full size pic here:
    http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/tkeahi/plumbing001-1.jpg

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 14, 2007
  2. Cass

    Cass Plumber

    Messages:
    5,980
    Location:
    Ohio
    If you do have a reducer coupling taking it from 2" down to 1.5" and you can remove it and still have a 2" nipple you can get a banded coupling that is specifically for going from 2" copper to 2" PVC and run 2" to the washer box. When the code was 1.5" they saved $$$ by reducing down to 1.5" instead of running 2" all the way.
  3. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,396
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Is there a p trap that is not visible? I know you're basically concerned about the pipe sizing, but there needs to be a trap.:confused:
  4. tkeahi

    tkeahi New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Yes, the trap and existing 1.5 " standpipe are on the other side of that wall (the one that the "to the washing machine" arrow is pointing towards.
  5. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,396
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Good! Then just follow the plan Cass gave you and you should be fine.:)
  6. tkeahi

    tkeahi New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Thanks for the help! :)
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