A few pedestal sink questions

[Anthony Curtas]

For our master bath remodel we are doing dual pedestal sinks.

The wall they are going on is small so we are looking at the 24" Kohler Devonshire sinks.

The faucets we are considering all come with a 1-1/4" drain. The rough in for these sinks is going to be all new, so I have control over alignment and drain size.

Questions:
Kohler has a nice chrome P-trap, but they all seem to come with a cleanout. Is a cleanout at the bottom of the trap even accessible in a pedestal sink? Without holding them together, I'm not sure I'd be able to tell.

Are Kohler and the other "nice" brands of p-traps worth the up-cost? I know it's just a drain, but if the metal is nicer and finish holds up better it will be worth it. But $70 versus $25 is a big difference (times 2 sinks).

Finally, 1-1/2" drain with a reducing washer (most seem to come with it), or 1-1/4" to the wall then 1-1/2 to the drain vent (which is 2" and already in place).

Thanks,
Anthony

 

[Jadnashua]

On most, the pedestal pretty much hides the plumbing, at least the drain, so it probably doesn't really matter what you use. And, no, you normally do not need a cleanout on the trap.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[FullySprinklered]

You need a clean-out on the trap like I need a tit in the middle of my back. I've seen them, but never got any use out of them.
All the barf jello and hair collects on the vertical section of the assembly, not in the U-bend.

 

[Anthony Curtas]

Okay, duly noted

How about trap size and "quality"? Is premium worth the cost?

I've seen a bunch of 1-1/4" tail to 1-1/2" wall p-traps, so I'll probably just go with that unless there's a reason not to.

 

[FullySprinklered]

There are cast, chrome plated P-traps that are way beyond anything you can buy off the rack at HD. I own one for show and tell. Weighs a couple of pounds. Can't remember where I got it, but I'm sure it's a government spec part from some job I worked years ago. The chrome jobs you get at the big box stores are thin and may actually not last as long as plastic.
I connect 1 and a quarter to 1 and a half with the fat ferrule that comes with the 1.5 plastic p-trap.

 

[Anthony Curtas]

I was leaning towards the cast ones. I figure if nothing else, they can take a little extra torque to tighten them down and stay sealed (whereas a thin wall might deform). I also can't rule out kids somehow pulling or otherwise contacting the exposed pipe.

There are a few that don't completely break the bank ($50 price range). We're going with chrome, so color match shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks.

 

[Cool Blue Harley]

Use 17 gauge chrome plated choke traps. Don't settle for 20 or 22 gauge, it's difficult to replace traps on pedestal sinks. Forget the clean out. Don't forget other TTY he deep dish escutcheon.

Use the money you saved on the fancy traps to buy decorative angle stops. Perhaps cross handle. Pedestal sinks make a statement. The exposed plumbing should be perfect.

Use solid 3/8 inch acorn risers, not stainless steel flex connectors. Make it look like a plumber did the installation.

 

[Anthony Curtas]

That's the plan (DIY like a real plumber). I've done a lot before and this is the only real new thing (pedestal and exposed pipes). And I do have a pro on call should I need a hand (he takes side jobs to help handy people -- did a lot of repairs at my parents house).

I've been looking at the cross handled angle stops for a bit. We are going with a small California Faucets 4" centerset with cross handles so that would fit well. Kohler has a nice rough-in guide for the pedestal which will make locating the holes pretty easy and I have some flexibility on final sink placement, so I can work around a stud or other obstacle to some degree.

And we're treating the budget right on this -- set a number and when we save somewhere, we splurge elsewhere (always save first, I keep telling the wife).

Thanks.