7000SXT water softner system not working

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by dc5itr329, Nov 27, 2012.

  1. dc5itr329

    dc5itr329 New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    California
    Hi all. I've installed a 7000SXT water softener system from isopurewater. It's a 2 cubic unit. At first the unit was working fine. Ever since I've installed this unit I noticed on the 15 day I don't' have soft water. Now the soft water is gone in a matter of days. I just installed this unit a few months ago so it's really new. The settings are all factory except the hardness level which is set at 15 and the grain level which is set at 64000 grain. Is there anything I need to look out for? Thanks in advance.
  2. dc5itr329

    dc5itr329 New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    California
    I also checked the brine tank and it's not using any salt. Is there anything I need to look at?
  3. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,828
    Location:
    Ontario California
    The settings are incorrect unless you are regenerating with massive amounts of salt. Do you know what the actual hardness is? Assuming the system is programmed for a standard salt setting of 8 pounds of salt per cu. ft., the system would be good for 48,000 grains of salt. It can be programmed for as little as 4 pounds of salt per cubic foot with fairly good results and higher efficiency.

    At your current settings, the system may only be regenerating every couple of months depending on how many people are in your house. I can post the programming sheet tomorrow. You should remove the grey clip that keeps the brine line in place, pull out the brine line and take a look at the button inside. It will have some numbers on it. It should be either 125 (it looks more like 123) or 250. This is the flow rate of the brine refill. It is also printed on the back of the valve, but regardless of what the valve says, it is always good practice to check to make sue the button matches what is printed.

    With this information, we can walk you through reprogramming your valve to the correct settings,


    Other imprtant information would be how many people in your house, actual hardness, iron level, manganese,

    Your system is probably just fine, it needs to be programmed correctly.

    If you do not know what your water hardness is, then a Hach 5B would be a good place to start.

    Just found this, I posted the programming recently, check this link. http://www.terrylove.com/forums/sho...-distributor-pipe/page3&highlight=programming
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2012
  4. dc5itr329

    dc5itr329 New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    California
    I pulled these levels from the city report.

    Alkalinity (mg/L) 120
    Calcium (mg/L) 35
    Hardness [as CaCO3] (mg/L) 130
    Hardness [as CaCO3] (grains/gal) 7.4
    Magnesium (mg/L) 11
    pH (pH units) 8.1
    Potassium (mg/L) 2.2
    Sodium (mg/L) n 44

    The brine button has 25, 434, and F marking on it. On the back of the unit it says it's a 250. We have 4 people using this system.

    Thank you for your help!

  5. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,828
    Location:
    Ontario California
    7000 2 cu ft.jpg

    Use this programming guide, the Master programming mode is needed to set your system properly, not the installer portion. Be sure to change the "H" setting to 8, not 20. It can be set more efficiently, but for time reasons (hockey game in 1 hour), this will get you programmed to where the system will work. The "BF" setting will be 22 since you have a .25 BLFC.
  6. dc5itr329

    dc5itr329 New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    California

    Thanks for this. I've been playing around with the system and realize that the main reason why it wasn't working correctly was there was missing items that weren't given from isopure. Now with everything installed and settings updated, hopefully I have a good running system. Thanks!
  7. scarpwi

    scarpwi New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    I have a similar experience with my brand new Fleck 7000SXT softner. All installed by a professional and it all looks good quality mechanically speaking. He was a little bit confused by the programming. Not a lot, but a little unsure I think. Basically, the salt is not being consumed after a few months and the water still feels a bit too hard in my view. I have a 40,000 grain capacity unit. Display format is in GAL, Valve type is dF2b, control type is Fd, hardness of the water is 15 grains but I have the softner set to 20. Reserve selection is cr, Safety factor is 20, Fixed Reserve is 0 and variable reserve is 0. Day override is off (1), regen is at 2 am and cycle steps are backwash 10, brine draw 60, backwash 5, rapid rince 5 and brind fill 12. (all defaults). flow meter type is 11.2 which is the 7000 meter. All seems reasonable to me. Bypass valve is set to "service" adn they are 1 inch brass sweat connections (same size as my water service line). Any suggestions as to what I should pursue? Thanks!
  8. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,828
    Location:
    Ontario California
    If a new metered softener is not working after the installation, this is a very common problem. The meter turbine is a common problem regardless of manufacturer. A piece of teflon tape, a drip of solder, a packing peanut, etc can get into the flow meter. This is the easiest item to check. Especially on the 7000. Turn water on inside the house. You will see a water drip icon on the display that will start blinking if the meter is working correctly. If you do not see a blinking water drip (not the hose bib icon), than the meter is not working. You can remove the meter cable from the outlet of the valve and run a magnet across the sensor to see if the water drip starts to blink. If it does, then the cable and board are good, your meter turbine is not spinning. Watch the video link to see how to get to the meter and inspect it for debris. The meter inspection is near the end of the video. Keep us updated.
    [video=youtube;8YkJSSGQ0Rk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YkJSSGQ0Rk&list=UUL7f2aKKWBuAhzru29_Wv5A& index=3[/video]
  9. scarpwi

    scarpwi New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Fleck 7000

    Thanks for the fast reply! The meter icon does in fact blink when water is running so it seems the turbine is working and not obstructed. All the bypass valves are in the correct position as well. Not sure what else I should be checking. I hate to call someone if I can sort it out on my own. Thanks in advance for the great ideas and advice!
  10. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,828
    Location:
    Ontario California
    I read through your post quickly and missed the programming errors, you have a few problems. The default programming will not work. Use my programming guide. The DLFC, injector and BLFC need to be correct as shown on the chart as well. it you remove the gray clips you can easily remove the BLFC and DLFC housings. Look inside to see what size they are. The programming shows you the correct setting based on the BLFC size. It is either a .125 or .25. If it is .50, then it need to be changed. The injector should be a #0 red. Watch my video to see how to remove the injector cap. You will see the injector color when you remove the cap. Be sure the system is depressurized prior to removing the red clip. Also, it helps to depressurise the system, and push the black injector cap in to release the red clip. The red clips are safety devices. they are designed to break in the case of someone trying to remove them while the system is under pressure.

    Your programming is way off, so do these first, then add 5 gallons of water to the brine tank and regenerate the system. you will be fine after that. Also, get a HACH 5B test kit.
  11. scarpwi

    scarpwi New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Thanks again. My softner was advertised/sold to me as being a 40,000 grain unit. I want to use your guide you posted for programming but your examples are all based on a 64,000 grain unit. (With comments that it is actually lower). So should I set "C" to 40 or something less? And my actual hardness of incoming community well water is 15. You recommend the other settings as in your guide then correct? I appreciate you helping this DYI-er.
  12. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,828
    Location:
    Ontario California
    scarpwi, what size tank do you have? I assume your system is a 1.25 Cu. Ft. system. That size system can come in a few different tank sizes.

    use this programming sheet. 7000125.jpg
  13. scarpwi

    scarpwi New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Wisconsin
  14. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,828
    Location:
    Ontario California
    a 9x44 tank is not one I am familiar with. 9x40, 9x42, 9x48 are all common. 10x40, 10x44, 10x47, and 10x52 are also common tanks. Be sure your diameter measurement is accurate and look on the tank for a sticker that indicates the tank size. I assume you have a 1.25 cu. ft. system since it is called a 40000 grain system. The settings in the programming will remain the same, just the check boxes may be slightly different depending on tank size. You may also have a turbulator inside the tank, these allow for a much lower free-board.

    We will get you figured out soon!
  15. scarpwi

    scarpwi New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    I do NOT have a turbulator. I know that for sure. The 9 measurment is good. There is a plastic "sleeve" around the tank itself and a black plastic base the tank sits in so it is a little hard to get an exact measurement. I checked again and I believe it is 9X42. Does that change any of the programming you gave me most recently? Thanks again... I see the light approaching!! - Steve
  16. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,828
    Location:
    Ontario California
    The 40K is throwing me on this one. A 9x42 tank maxes out properly at .75 cu. ft, but a lot of companies put 1 cu. ft. into them. I do not know of any companies that put 1.25 Cu. ft. into a 9x42 tank. That would basically fill the tank, no freeboard and no gravel. Let me think on this one.
  17. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Measure the circumference, using a flexible tape (a cloth tailor's tape works great) or a string, then divide by 3.14.
  18. scarpwi

    scarpwi New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Would it help me to find any other serial number, model number or something? If I took some digital pictures of my installation would that be of any value to you? soft3.jpg soft1.jpg soft2.jpg
  19. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,828
    Location:
    Ontario California
    The most important part for accurate and efficient programming is the media amount. How much resin is inside the tank. If they say it is a 40K system, then the prgramming guide above should be accurate.

    I assume you left the old 3 valve bypass in place. Gate valves... neat. The system has a built in bypass so the 3 valve was not needed.

    Measure the circumfrence of the jacket as Mikey said, I can figure it out from there. That looks like a 10" tank, but it is really hard to tell from a picture. I could definetly be wrong.
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