4 Gang Switch Box Wiring diagram

Discussion in 'Electrical Forum discussion & Blog' started by ChrisNJ, Mar 30, 2013.

  1. ChrisNJ

    ChrisNJ New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    NJ
    Hey all. Other than my poor artistic skills, spelling and use of scrap paper does this plan look acceptable? This is a dedicated 15 amp circuit on a GFCI breaker (it's gonna be in a bathroom) straight from the panel using 14-2 NM. Black is hot, blue neutral, green ground.

    [​IMG]

    For the three 5 wire connections in the switch box, I was going to use Ideal 452 Wing Nuts in red for hot and neutral wires but I'm not sure if I can use those for the ground wire.

    As an alternative, can "rabbit ear" connections still be used rather than the 452 nut? Any suggestions or criticisms will be most appreciated. Thanks!
  2. kreemoweet

    kreemoweet New Member

    Messages:
    371
    Location:
    Seattle. WA
    Ground wire (EGC) connections are no different than any other wire connections. Never heard of "rabbit ears", but if its a listed wire splicing device,
    and has the capacity for the number and size of wires,
    it should be fine. You need to ensure the switch device yokes are grounded, which may possibly require connection to the EGC.
  3. ChrisNJ

    ChrisNJ New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    NJ
    Thanks! Is it acceptable to pigtail the EGC to the 4 switches as long as I don't exceed each individual splice's capacity? For example:

    [​IMG]

    How's that look? Or do you have a suggestion? I'm all ears.
  4. kreemoweet

    kreemoweet New Member

    Messages:
    371
    Location:
    Seattle. WA
    It's not only acceptable, it's required if you're using a plastic box. There are many ways to physically attach the wires, what you show looks fine.
  5. ChrisNJ

    ChrisNJ New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    NJ
    Thank you so much for your help. I owe ya a beer :)
  6. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,264
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    The color of a "wire nut" is a function of its size and capacity. I have a feeling that you are going to run out of "box capacity" very quickly if you make ALL those spices you show.
  7. ChrisNJ

    ChrisNJ New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    NJ
    I hope not. Using pretty good size box.
  8. kreemoweet

    kreemoweet New Member

    Messages:
    371
    Location:
    Seattle. WA
    Push-in (Wago-style) connectors are handy for making those pesky ground connections; you can get 'em with up to 8 holes.
  9. bluebinky

    bluebinky Member

    Messages:
    382
    Location:
    Santa Clara, CA
    You can cut down on the number of wires in the switch box by going with 14-3 to one device box with two switched hots and then continuing on with 14-2 to another.

    Hope that makes sense...
  10. ActionDave

    ActionDave Electrician

    Messages:
    345
    Location:
    Colorado
    That is the way I would do it.
  11. ChrisNJ

    ChrisNJ New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    NJ
    It does. That will save a ton of box space. Thanks.
  12. ChrisNJ

    ChrisNJ New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    NJ
    Gonna grab some of those too since all the stuff I'm connecting doesn't draw too many amps.
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2013
  13. Homeownerinburb

    Homeownerinburb New Member

    Messages:
    525
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA USA
    You can also save lots of wire by daisy-chaining the common hot and the ground. One wire long enough to go from one switch to the next, with enough insulation removed to wrap around a screw. Not cut, continuous across the screw to the next switch.

    Very much a pain with 12 ga, but everything is a pain with 12 ga. Happily you are using 14 ga, which makes all this much easier.
  14. Homeownerinburb

    Homeownerinburb New Member

    Messages:
    525
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA USA
    You can also save lots of space by daisy-chaining the common hot and the ground. One wire long enough to go from one switch to the next, with enough insulation removed to wrap around a screw. Not cut, continuous across the screw to the next switch. Don't damage the conductor.

    Very much a pain with 12 ga, but everything is a pain with 12 ga. Happily you are using 14 ga, which makes all this much easier.
  15. ChrisNJ

    ChrisNJ New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    NJ
    Will that pass inspection?
  16. bluebinky

    bluebinky Member

    Messages:
    382
    Location:
    Santa Clara, CA
    I did that here and it passed -- but the inspector didn't look that closely in every box. Here they seem to be looking for things that stick out like wires cut really short or a box crammed full of wires (or a single gang duplex box with four or five NM cables going into it).

    The other thing here (may work there or not) is that when I'm not 100% sure about something I point it out and ask before the inspector discovers it -- if I did something minor wrong, he says how it should be (before the next inspection) and then signs it off.
  17. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,264
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    quote; 14-3 to one device box with two switched hots and then continuing on with 14-2 to another.

    That assumes the two "switched hots" have a common path.
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