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So far, it's only used when the heater is running a lot. The climate in the Arizona mountains is kind of weird; the summer months are mostly humid, so there's rarely a dryness problem in summer. If I put in a new one, I might try setting it up to run on blower when it's really dry. I'll try...

Thanks for the info! As long as it doesn't have a reservoir pan that has to drain very fast (say, via a dump valve) even full flow from a 1/4 inch line would be no issue. And, in the link you posted (thank you again!) there's a "slso bought with" drain strainer, which tells me there's no dump...

Thanks for the reply! The former owner left the manuals for all the fixtures (A tremendous help to any buyer), and in this case it included the install receipt. The humidifier was installed in 2005 (about a year after the house was built), but appears to have been made in 1993 if the manual's...

Short version: drum-style bypass Lobb Wa2 whole-house humidifier used to be adequate, but no longer is (humidity often under 20%). I can't figure out why it's no longer adequate. The house is in a dry air climate (northern Arizona, altitude 6200, so often cold in winter, deep snow, etc.). The...

I'm trying to install an overflow fitting for a "kitchen" sink. It's actually going in a laundry room, but for all practical purposes (usage) it's a single bowl stainless steel kitchen sink with a disposal. It'll have one trap. (Or, if I have to, I could put a waterless trap on the overflow and...

I am *NOT A PLUMBER*, so please take what I say with a huge dose of salt. I'm just a DIY guy, and I'd also advise taking the advice of any regular here over mine. I've had that issue (having to insert a piece when there's not enough flex). In my case, I've run into it sweating copper pipes and...

I finally got around to fixing it. (I had the breakers off in the meantime). What I did was change the breakers around so that these two lines are now on vertically-adjacent breakers, on opposite legs of the 3 phase supply. I very clearly labeled them in the supply panel. I didn't make them a...

I just looked, and there is a diagram on the back of the door, which I hadn't previously noticed even though it was right under my nose (oops). And, it's alternating vertically, so that too indicates that this MWBC is miswired (there is one breaker between the two) as they are both on the same...

Hrmm. If they are on separate legs, I agree; it's fine. But if they are on the same leg (phase), it seems I was right, it's a huge mistake. Therefor, I think I need to find out. I can measure the voltage between the two lives, and see if it's around zero (meaning same leg) or around 240...

I'll get an analog multimeter. I've noticed that the digital leaves much to be desired sometimes. What they used was 12 gauge; red, black, white, and copper. The red was one live, the black the other, with the white as a common neutral (pigtailed together in the washer's receptacle). To be...

Great idea, but I wasn't willing to open up the main breaker panel so what I did was rearrange the labeling, so washer now goes to washer, plus I added a note on the labels that it's the same romex and the same box (the breakers aren't adjoining, unfortunately). I will also be going through the...

This probably goes without saying, but I'm posting it to warn people of the fatal mistake I almost made. Backstory: I'm moving a washing machine plug as part of a remodel. On the main supply panel, the builder had labeled one 20 amp circuit "washer". I have the wall open, so I could see the...

Update: I haven't been able to get an answer out of the city yet (they don't seem to know their own code) but, I had an idea: check out some new homes. My reasoning was that if they are approving an exterior-vent no-air-gap T&P line for new construction, surely it's okay to us an identical...

I hadn't considered failing open. Thank you, that does make sense.

I'm planning on adding a sink to a laundry room. The good news is the wall I want to put it on has the water supply lines and sewer stack for the upstairs quest bathroom in it, so easy access to hot and cold water and the stack, and the stack serves only that bathroom group (one sink, one WC) so...

I probably do worry too much. :) What got me worried was the inability of the city code desk to indicate whether it was or wasn't okay, coupled with item #2 of the code (detailed upthread) that seems to prohibit it, plus some commercial home inspector check sheets objecting to it. The...

I'm trying. :) the problem is that in order to arrange it, I'd have to leave my name and number. So, I'm trying to catch one at the permit office. No luck so far, but I'll keep trying (I've been advised that early mornings is best, so I'm trying that as of tomorrow). I figure I'll see one...

About a 3"? I could, but it'd have to be about the same height as the existing T&P line (otherwise it means tunneling through the foundation). So, that'd mean raising the WH by a lot to accommodate the air gap drop, and the air gap would have to be at roughly eye level. I guess I could put that...

I cannot put in a drain. It's a slab floor walk out finished basement, and the walk out side (where the drain would need to head for) is on the far side from the WH. There is no way to run a drain without trenching the slab all through the finished rooms (Even a wall run won't work; there's a...

@Sylvan; The existing T&P relief line to the exterior of the building terminates a couple of feet over a rocky mountainside, well away from any walkway, and well over a hundred feet from the nearest property line or public street. The chances of anyone being in that location are basically zero...