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Two valves may make sense if you are planning to go on long vacation during dry months and still have your garden green :) Then you would shut down the in-house supply and keep the irrigation pipes running. Unexpectedly big irrigation bill is way better than fixing water damages in the house.

replying to Wayne, looks like this slip valve could help in his case

Finally got it done (too many projects at the same time) I dug out a mini-trench just outside the foundation (gravel then cloth then soil) and found an open end of a storm water 4" corrugated pipe, going right into the ground at an angle. Checked with a garden hose - drains perfectly fine...

something like this?

It's only 3/4", not 1", but good to know they exist. I had to cut out the old valve, anyway, and put a new one 2 ft higher, so I had to patch 2 spans. Yes I could do a regular coupling plus this slip valve instead of slip coupling and regular valve. If 1" slip valve existed. Now that I am really...

That is a great advice. What I have not figured out yet is what actually releases the grip, pushing on an inner plastic sleeve or a metal rim?

This is what I ended up doing. Instead of painful soldering with my small torch, bought sharkbites, one slip connector and a 1/4 turn valve. Not the cheapest solution but well worth the time and trouble I avoided. Replacement took less than 30 min. including shutting/opening the street valve -...

Will this valve be fine there? So I am planning to cut out the existing valve and a chunk of existing pipe above it right up to just under the PRV's tee Insert a new valve between PRV's tee and that chunk of pipe, solder the valve then solder the slip coupling at the bottom of the pipe chunk...

I see, so what you saying is that the pan should be filling up to the drain level first, and then the water would drain outside. I was thinking of avoiding a pan altogether by placing the drain in the floor, and maybe even sloping the floor towards it just a tiny bit. I could always balance the...

I did indeed cut into rebars when I was moving my drain in my 4" slab. I drilled holes and inserted new ones when patching the trench, not sure if that helps at all, mostly to keep the trench from sinking, I thought at that time. Footings could be a different thing, I get it. My plan is that if...

Well, my good neighbor Terry suggested 1" PVC pipe, and, yes, my washing machine is right by the outside wall. I was also thinking 2" first, but that might be an overkill for overflow drain.

You are right, it's copper, the pipe was so dirty I could not recognize (and lack of experience, of course :)), had to scratch it to confirm It makes my life much easier, I can solder it just like I did 1/2" pipes for my shower. Found a slip coupling, too. So what valve would you recommend? I...

so what fittings are recommended for in-place pipe replacement? something like slip coupling for ABS drain pipes?

Thanks! I do have a T&P on my new water heater (same 50 gal AO Smith with identical specs to the one from 1998, surprisingly) which drains right outside the garage, not sure if the previous one had T&P but the drain pipe was already there. I also have a blue expansion tank now. I think I will...

As part of my basement renovation, I am thinking of opening up an unfinished closet which has a main water pipe with a valve. I will be finishing the concrete wall with 2x4's, insulation, and drywall. There is a main water line there, however, which I am planning to hide behind an access panel...

Bought a 13" long 1.5" dia core drill bit for concrete with arbor, should be fine for 1" pipe, I guess. And I already have a hammer drill. Should be a fun project. I am planning to drill a pilot hole first all the way to the excavated outside trench. Are there any good floor drain fittings for...

Why Hot Water is Always on the Left Side of a Faucet Back in the 19th century, when indoor plumbing was introduced, water was brought into the home by hand pump. At the time, there was only one option that came out of the hand pump: cold water. Since most people were — and still are —...

So if I do have slab-on-grade (which I think most likely the case), is it better to go under the slab or drill through it? Where do they usually place re-bars? Deep below floor level?

That used to be the case with the old water heater, not any more. The water was really hot first, then after 30 minutes of showering it was not hot enough at full-hot shower setting. The plumber didn't mess with shower valves at all, he just replaced the water heater. I am not aware of any...

I did my drop ear using machine screws through a 1" wood plank, instead of wood screws. I would stack up metal washers to decrease the installation depth of the drop ear. I did have access to the back of the shower wall, though :)