Search results

A coned (utility) worker once told me that during the summer heat waves - the city runs off 96% of its capacity. That is why they force businesses to close down escalators and they shut down/lower certain large central AC systems (they have special thermostats that could be controlled by the...

Maybe because of the high prices - that is why they did not close down the Indian Point Nuclear Energy center which is only 40 miles away from the populated New York City area (and produces about 25% of it's electric). If something goes wrong in that power plant- 17 million people are in danger...

In my case we needed to use 2-4 pumps for each zone. Otherwise the water was flowing so slowly that the boiler would reach 200F and shutoff. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/hot-water-heat-can-i-use-one-powerful-circulation-pump-to-boost-water-flow-of-multiple-zones.62969/

Just looked at an Electric bill. It is actually about 30 Cents per KWH. There are a total of 9 Charges Here is how it is broken up (I summarized the explanations to the): 1- Supply Charges 2- Merchant function Charge (To reimburse the utility company for all the non paying account holders)...

A) What I like about Home Depot is 1- It is a one stop shop without hours of looking around etc. 2- You know you are getting something that will work (most of the time). 3- The main advantage is for people like me that are not so professional - anything I don't use or does not fit - could easily...

You are very right about that. (Not sure if you live in NY) Aside from the fire hazards - It probably cost more money to heat 1 single room with electric heater - than to heat the entire house. (It is around 35 cents per KWH 1500 watts= 52 cents per hour. which could easily add up to 300 per...

In regards to your question "what water temp" do I need - we set the boiler to heat the water to 160 in order to be far from the 200 boiler shutoff level. Not sure if that is right but I guess that deserves it's own discussion.

Kind of expensive.........

Thanks for your detailed options. The problem is that Home Depot only sells the kickboard heaters. All the others are difficult to find a reliable and affordable seller. What exactly is the problem with kickboard heaters (Aside that I will need to connect the electrical components for the fan...

We have a regular hydronic boiler.

Basically the entire kitchen is covered by counters and cabinets. We only have 24 inches of wall to install the heating element. Could we put the baseboard upward from floor to ceiling?? If not - What type of heating unit could we use? (All help will get thumbs up)

P.S. I thought of an idea of taking all six pumps and lining them all up on the main supply line and using zone valves for the zones instead, but that will be a lot of work and plumbing. (Also that will reduce the main supply line to 3/4 and the water will rush very quickly through the line...

Your answer also shows to have a lot of experience in this field (and get a like). As I mentioned to jadnashua - the original licensed proffesional boiler expert gave up after 2 days of trying and blamed the plumber who did the piping. We did lower the fire on the boiler, but lowering it only...

Your answer (as well as Tom's) seems to show a lot of experience (and received a like). What do you mean "What pressure are you running"? -We are using 3/4 Pex (barrier) and new space saver radiators. It is possible that the pex fittings (which are smaller (1/2 inch)) along with all the...

Also adding a third pump to every single zone may pose a problem. There will be a total of 11 pumps. (9 + hot water + internal boiler pump). On a cold day when all pumps work together (85w x 11 =935 watts + boiler) it might overload the circuit breaker.)

(My initial concern with one pump was that when "zone 1" will turn on - this main pump will also pump hot water to "zone 2" and "zone 3". One the other hand since only "zone 1" will have it's own pumps running - maybe those pumps will direct all the water to zone 1 and not allow any water into...

We have hot water heat. We have three separate zones. Each zone has a separate pump that gets triggered by it's own thermostat. (No zone valves - just "zone pumps"). The hot water was not circulating quick enough through the radiators (which caused boiler shutoff etc). We added a second pump to...

If I use the bottom openings 3&4 (in and out) - will the top of the radiator become hot? (Or will the hot water just slide through the bottom and the top will remain cold?)

Each (old) radiator has a total of 4 openings. Two on each side, one on top and one on bottom (1,2,3,4 in the attached picture). Steam systems use only one opening (on the bottom). Hydronic heat requires 2 openings. One for inlet and one for outlet. Which opeinings should be used??? Option 1...