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My bad for not asking the question clearly enough. The pipe after the shutoff valve is 3/4". The what appears to be not copper pipe coming through the wall is obviously a lot bigger, but I didn't want to assume. For what it's worth, that one measures about 1.66" OD. Would this perhaps be 1 1/4"...

Makes sense. Does it look like I have a 1" or greater supply coming in from the street? If so, it also seems to make sense to ask the water utility for a larger meter?

Reviving an old thread to see if someone has thoughts on this. Essentially, it seems the incoming water line has a reducer to 3/4". But it also looks like different materials. What's your guess on incoming supply line size? And any experience with this style water meter and its effect on...

Not going to work. Shower #1 isn't wet vented properly, because the WC is upstream of it. Shower #3 has the same issue. The island and "WH" traps are unvented. And if WH = water heater then you'd have a dry trap over time. You should be able to do most of it with proper wet venting (except for...

Hi all - I'm trying to figure out whether and how I should change my water supply setup. See two pics below: the main supply w/ shutoff and the water meter setup. Couple things on my mind: - I have only about 50 PSI, and am worried that feeding four bathrooms through a 3/4" supply will be...

You could always ask, of course. Did he already make provisions for tie-in of the shower and the toilet vent?

I blame the internet haha. Was just wondering if I had said something incorrect, which I am always on the lookout for ... it's how you learn, right? :)

??? don't believe I gave any advice that wouldn't pass code. I know my limits - mostly.

You'll need to tie in with the roof vent or make a new roof vent, and then vent the washer and sink individually from that. Can't run the vent out next to the entryway, can't use an AAV for the washer, can't do any wet venting, and can't use a loop. Even if you were able to do a loop, you would...

Because this isn't so much about protecting the toilet trap itself, but rather to protect upstream fixtures from being siphoned when the toilet is flushed. Before water and waste reach the vertical stack they will create siphoning action on the upstream sink/shower portion, so those need to be...

yes a trap arm can run a certain distance *horizontally*, but not vertically. I would go sink trap -> 90 deg horizontal -> horizontal arm -> santee into the 1.5" "vent" to keep it easy. Leave everything else as is - trying to further combine will run into problems with respect to wet vent sizing...

I don't think you can leave the tee alone - the code clearly (well, actually vaguely) says the first thing after the meter has to be the double check. So you'd go meter -> check -> tee -> prv EDIT: I would also check with the city whether over 80 PSI is OK for the sprinklers.

The part above the floor is an s-trap at the moment, which means the water going down the vertical part will cause siphoning. If you can tie in the shower wet vent between the toilet and the sink drain, the the sink piece is just a drain and could be 1.5. Not sure what fitting you'd use to bring...

Yes, but the sink as shown isn't vented. Run the sink trap arm horizontal direct into to the 1.5" "vent" with a santee, or drop the vent down below the recessed cabinet and then run it horizontal to end up above sink. You may have enough room between cabinet and studs to not have to cut into...

But why are you focused on the PRV? the code change doesn't seem to require it. So moving the tee would still run the sprinkler full pressure, but meet the changed code of having the dual check as the first thing downstream of the meter. Maybe I'm missing something.

Sounds to me like the easiest change is to make sure the current dual check is ASSE 1024 conformant, and then move the sprinkler tee downstream from that dual check valve.

Increase the wet vent section of the sink drain to 2" (I believe this is a requirement, not optional). Unless you can get the shower trap arm less than 6' from the wet vent tie-in, it needs its own vent. Change shower and wet vent tie-ins from santees to wye + 45, because you need to use waste...

My sense is no - you'd need to bring it up to code. Something to check out with the code enforcement office before you make changes.

You'd use a santee not a wye (which gives you more room to work with) unless that diagonal piece is less than 45 deg up. But if you're getting this inspected it might fail regardless - the current 2" vertical vent to 3" horizontal is a santee, which is the wrong fitting for that change of...

Smart yes, but also much more complicated. I'd need to run 3" up a 2x4 wall and make it fit so I don't have a cleanout visibly sticking out. In this case it puts the cleanout behind the vanity accessible through the cabinet, but even then I have do to some acrobatics tying it in. I'm going for...