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Just to follow up on what I did. I bought a 12" lead stub and cut the top 4 inches off. I cut the old lead stub as level as I could about an inch below floor level, then carefully belled the old stub out so the new piece would fit inside about 2". Then I used Sika 291 (a marine bedding compound...

Being Saturday, only one plumbing supply house is open here and the guy on the desk knows nothing about the donuts. They do have lead stubs, though. Two more little bits of info: this elbow is not perpendicular to the floor, as the 18" of pipe running into tee of the waste stack is sloped for...

Thanks. I went to see how hard access was to do this from below, and discovered that it isn't actually a lead bend, it's a short piece of lead pipe leading (no pun intended) into a 4" cast iron 90 and then the waste stack. How does that change the prescription? Yours Vern

Problem with lead closet bend Hi All Second post about our bathroom reno. Things have been going well, but a small snag has come up. After cleaning the old wax off the closet flange, I see that the lead bend is corroded and cracked right at the top edge of the flange, where it is bent over...

The arrestor, in this case, added a "spring" to the system and maybe luck just had it that it was just the right rate to damp the vibration

Looking at the picture blown up, I think what looks like a branch coming out of the "gray thing" is actually ducting behind it. Yours Vern

Starting our bathroom reno, and high on the list is replacing the iron pipe drain from the lav to the waste stack. The current pipe drains very slow, and being 50 years old I'm worried that cleaning it is an invitation for problems. So I have a two part question: First, the run is about 50...