Removal and Replacement of ACCOR FlowTite Shut Off Valves

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Alkraut

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Hello,
I am new to this great forum, but I have done much DIY plumbing repairs and have good mechanical skills and tools. I need some advice/instruction on a valve replacement that I have never done.

My home in Florida was built in 2006 and the builder used ACCOR "push-on" FlowTite shut offs on all of the connections. These have the push-pull knob and a crimped-on flex hose. There are 11 in the house for the toilets and sinks, and I have heard much about the leaks and failure of these cheap valves. The pipe is CPVC. I would like to replace these valves with reliable metal valves and metal braided hoses. My internet searches tell me that these are Sharkbite type push-on valves, but that they do not have a release sleeve to remove them. In most cases, I do not have enough pipe sticking out of the wall to just saw them off. I read that others have "twisted and pulled" as well as "butchered" them to get them off. My concern is not to damage or "spiral" the outside surface of the CPVC so the new valves will seal without issues.

Is there a preferred method on removing them? I have pipe cutters, Dremel with various saws and bits and various wrenches and pliers. Again, my concern is retaining a good surface on the existing pipe. Also, once off, what is the recommended replacement for a angled metal shut off valve? Sharkbite or compression? Thank you for advice and recommendations.
 

Jadnashua

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THe act of pushing them on may mean any new fitting other than a glue on one may be compromised...the teeth holding that on may have already scored the pipe enough so that it could damage a new push-on type's o-ring, or impair the ability of a compression fitting to seal. If I was going to take them off, I'd first try cutting a slot with a cutoff tool and the Dremel tool, making sure to not score the pipe. If you got close, you could probably put a screw driver in the slot and twist which may break the thing. I've not tried this, so this is just a guess.
 

hj

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With copper tubing you can "twist and pull" to take them off but that will not work with plastic because the teeth will dig in to the CPVC and damage the surface or break the tubing. You will have to cut them off very carefully.
 

Alkraut

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With copper tubing you can "twist and pull" to take them off but that will not work with plastic because the teeth will dig in to the CPVC and damage the surface or break the tubing. You will have to cut them off very carefully.

Thank you all for the information and advice. I will try to get an ACCOR from a plumbing supply and see if I can practice cutting it off on a piece of CPVC pipe.

So once I get it off will smoothing the pipe with fine sandpaper help? If I use the standard compression type fitting with a brass ferrule (I have used many of these with copper, but I have no experience with them on plastic) would it help to put some RTV inside the ferrule before tightening the nut?
 

Alkraut

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Once I remove the ACCOR Flowtite valves, would the Sharkbite be able to be used on the same CPVC surface?
221284757859_1.jpg
 

Jadnashua

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IF the surface area where the O-rings seal is clean AND the stub they have to slide over doesn't tear them up, yes. It all depends on how smooth the pipe is. The Sharkbite's O-rings, just like any o-ring, can be damaged by sharp or rough surfaces, and will also have a problem sealing if the surface is rough or irregular. The teeth in the things just hold it in place, it is the rubber O-rings that make the seal.

A typical Sharkbite fitting needs to have at least a 1" stub to become fully seated, and that may be an issue. Check the installation instructions for the exact length required. What you have there may work with a shorter stub, or if longer, you might be able to cut off the rough area of the pipe, leaving pristine surface for the new valve.
 

Alkraut

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Thank you Jim, terrific advice!
On those where there is enough pipe, I will cut back with a rotating tubing cutter and smooth the inside/outside edges. I will clean the outside of the pipe with a non-abrasive Dobie dish pad.
 

WorthFlorida

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Hi ALkraut,

I purchased a home in Orange County Florida and it was the first time I seen these flimsy fittings. I assume they look like the ones below. I had an entire kitchen make over and I did the plumbing part. I found that by getting a good grip on the pipe you can turn the fitting clockwise and pull at the same time, they will come off but I'm not sure if you can do it from under a sink and it may be hard to see if the pipe remained smooth. I did replace the CPVC water lines so I had smooth pipe and did use the Shark Bite brand. If you do get them off you can glue a CPVC coupling with about a one and a quarter inch pipe on the other end. This will give you a new smooth piece to use a shark bite on. There are really nice, all metal and chromed. I've had a Shark Bite toilet shut off for about eight years in my other home and I have no fear about it ever leaking.

pushons.jpgrebuilt.jpgShark bit.jpg
 
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WorthFlorida

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Here is another solution. After removing or cutting off the flowtite's you can glue on one of these on to the pipe for your favorite shut off valve.

Transition.jpg
 

Terry

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accor-old-stops.jpg


A few Accor stops I removed today. Most of these I cut off after the Accor stop. Some I was able to pull the old stop off, and cut back a bit of CPVC so that the new would go on and seal.
 

hj

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Usually, when I "twist and pull" the stops on CPVC pipe, the "grip ring" comes out of the valve and I slide it back against the escutcheon before I install the new valve.
 

Terry

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Usually, when I "twist and pull" the stops on CPVC pipe, the "grip ring" comes out of the valve and I slide it back against the escutcheon before I install the new valve.

Man, these were still intact, and put some marking on the CPVC pipe. I cut some of the pipe end off before installing new stops. Most of the stops in the home had room between the wall and the stop, but a few were very tight.
 
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Terry

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A week ago I removed more of these in a home. The grip ring cut me twice, my thumb and a finger. I felt pretty beat up when I was done. Most of them had to be cut in places, pried and twisted. At least I was working with copper pipe this time.
 

Roger Bay

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Usually, when I "twist and pull" the stops on CPVC pipe, the "grip ring" comes out of the valve and I slide it back against the escutcheon before I install the new valve.

I had to pull one off and this is what happened to me, left one of the rings on the pipe. The ring is very thin so it was no issue snipping it off with wire cutters.
 
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