Zurn Neoseal

[Mark Biggs]

Will this gasket work for both 3" and 4" waste lines?

Tried the Harvey's #3 and that thing makes the bottom of the toilet bulge out about 1/8th of an inch further from wall than the top SO, to the garbage that goes. Certainly this would work without any modifications?

Also, are Harvey No. 2's the same thickness as the Zurn Neo Seals?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Breplum]

The gasket is ONLY for wall mount four bolt WC. Those frame assemblies have adjustable depth drain hubs.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Mark Biggs]

This is a 4 bolt carrier I'm using from 1964. Assuming by now the drain hub is rusted in place. Any recommendations on breaking drain hub loose??

In case I can't adjust hub is it imperative that backing nuts be flush with wall or is there room for outward adjustment away from wall. If not, why not?

 

[Terry]

Backing nuts and washers can be adjusted outward if needed.

 

[Mark Biggs]

Backing nuts and washers can be adjusted outward if needed.

If rusted drain hub is flush with wall - which it will be once I tile... How do I break it loose? What do you typically do? If I adjust it out... Can I remove it and perhaps replace with with a plastic one if by chance those exist?

Thanks in Advance!

 

[Mark Biggs]

If rusted drain hub is flush with wall - which it will be once I tile... How do I break it loose? What do you typically do? If I adjust it out... Can I remove it and perhaps replace with with a plastic one if by chance those exist?

Thanks in Advance!

But I wouldn't want to move the washers and nuts outward if the drain hub is flush with wall. I'd want it closer. If nuts are already flush with wall then I'm screwed

 

[Terry]

If you are tiling the wall out, you will want to find your toilet specs and fix the "rough" in the wall first.
The bolts may need to be extended outward, and the same with the drain.

 

[Mark Biggs]

If you are tiling the wall out, you will want to find your toilet specs and fix the "rough" in the wall first.
The bolts may need to be extended outward, and the same with the drain.

I know. I was going to cut around for the carrier.... Finish the wall and then adjust my carrier bolts and drain hub. Or do you mean adjust my carrier before tiling!? I'm asking if the drain hub is rusted in place how do I go about unseizing that.

 

[Breplum]

Those age-old assemblies are pretty hopelessly rusted together. You are screwed (in the most rusty of ways).

 

[Mark Biggs]

Those age-old assemblies are pretty hopelessly rusted together. You are screwed (in the most rusty of ways).

Thanks for the support!! LOL, I feel like I've been challenged.

 

[Terry]

With old wall hung setups, I prefer not the mess with the existing wall thickness. How about a picture of what you have?
Normally the barrel is a bit beyond the wall, there is space behind the bowl that is recessed.

 

[Mark Biggs]

I haven't tore into it yet... but the tile is pink plastic tile. It will be torn out eventually. As you can see based on the sheetrock at the base of the floor those tiles are not very thick. What say you if I don't retile that wall? Those tiles can't be more than 1/16th of an inch thick. If I DID want to tile that, what do you suggest? I am replacing the toilet so the drain hub is going to change anyways because of the change of the depth of the horn from one toilet to a different.

 

[Mark Biggs]

Just kind of mulling around. I think the best thing would be is to not tile the wall and just use my backing nuts/washers to adjust to compensate for the excess stick out of the drain hub due to me eliminating the tile. Instead of trying to mess with the rusted hub. I don't know. Making this sound impossible to do it I think ugh.

 

[Mark Biggs]

Terry?

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

I would start by opening up the wall and seeing exactly what you have. Start the de-rustifying / breaking free process with a good penetrating oil ASAP.