Yet another water softener advice topic/question(s).

[Glenn Wiltse]

Hey, I bought and installed a Fleck dual tank setup about 18 years ago, it served me well until about 6 months ago. One of the valves got jammed , the gears started slipping, etc... I tore it all apart, had thoughts of rebuilding it , to try save some money, etc... but I still don't know for sure what got stuck in the valve, it looked like plastic, possibly from ... well I'm not sure where it came from. So, anyway, I'm leery about putting a new valve/control unit on my current tanks, for fear that the outlet tube's filter thing at the bottom has broken pieces.

So anyway, I'm weighting the idea of just buying enough new parts to make the same basic dual tank setup work again, vs just buying a whole new system ( to make my life easier ).

Currently I don't even know my hardness levels ( I forgot what they were when I specked out the original system. ( the number 20 comes to mind ). I know originally, I had a lot of iron in my water, but visually it seems I do have less iron now for some reason ( the well is 20 years old at this point in time ). I can and/or will gather this hardness and/iron information soon.. but for now, I'm just trying to understand if I should go with another Fleck 9000, or maybe a 9100... SXT or not... Or... are their better options out there now, 18 years later ? Part of me wants to use the same valve, because there would be no real plumbing involved, just connect the current disconnect/bypass to the new system and go... But then, if there's some real advantage to going with a newer system/control valve, I would consider doing a whole new connection to a new softener setup...

My house is 4 bed, 3 full baths, one of the tubs is 100 gallon, and when used, at least 50 gallons are put in it, through a 10 GPM faucet. This large tub doesn't get used nearly as much as it used to, but I still would like a system that's fully capable of filling that tub up with 70 gallons of water a couple times a week or more. With three full grown humans in the house, there's typical laundry , shower, and other needs going on in a daily basis. Some members of the home are up till 2AM , other members are waking at 5 AM...

Other information... I run a reverse Osmosis / RO filter for drinking water. We can't stand drinking soften water, and for other reasons, we prefer having the highly filtered drinking water.

So, give me some advice... what's my best choice for replacing my old/broken setup? Is there something else I should be thinking about, or doing to make sure I get a good setup that can last me another 18 years or more?

 

[Reader90]

Suggest looking at other posts. First recommendation you will get is to get a current water test, and post results. Then ask for assistance. See other posts for suggestions on where to obtain a water test.

I had a Fleck 9100 a few times. Very good system. However, I ended up moving to a single tank softener system + a carbon tank system (I am on city water), all based on Fleck 58xx series valves. These are the newest valves from Fleck (now Pentair). Clack or Pentair valves are the choice here. With well water, you may need other treatment(s) based on your results.

Good luck!!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ditttohead]

Start with an updated water test. Use the link below, it will take you to an excellent testing company. Cost is reasonable and well worth it. A twin alternating system is great if you need it, this is rare. A single tank system regenerating once a week or less is almost as efficient as a twin alternating design. Twin alternating add considerable cost and complexity and the valves are a bit dated compared to the more modern designs. We are expecting an update to the electronics in a year or so but this really wont update the valve in any significant way.


http://watercheck.myshopify.com?aff=5

 

[Glenn Wiltse]

I did a hardness test... 36 grains , still trying to find a decent way to check for Iron... Ideally , something I could do myself for an moderate price.

Part of me, doesn't want to give up the dual tank setup... Seems to me, that the additional cost of a second tank, and additional resin , is not that big a price in the grand scheme of things.

One tid bit of information I didn't included previously, is sometimes, my wife ( the one who stays up till late into the night ) sometimes will start a load of laundry before she goes to bed... other times, she might start another load even later in the night.

Are these newer valves and single tank , likely to outlast the 18 years I got with my Fleck 9000 dual tank setup?

 

[ditttohead]

The design is similar. Simple motor/gear train. seal spacer/piston. The 9000 is a good valve but the brass body has been a problem in some water conditions.

As to a single tank design, a slightly larger system would get you to about 10-20 days between regenerations.

 

[Reach4]

I bought the Seachem multitest iron test. I am not that impressed with it. Maybe OK. It has been a while since I used it.

HA-95A hach iron and hardness test tests both iron and hardness.

Hach 146400 and 146401 are iron tests. I have not worked with either, but I suggest you search for info on those.

 

[Glenn Wiltse]

I tried to find a test kit locally that could do Iron test... miserable failure. Pro-Lab Iron test strip never changed color at all... either I have virtually no Iron in my water ( kinda unlikely ), or the test strip was/is worthless.

Looking at the costs of other methods of testing for Iron, the Hach kits start at around $70 , which is a bit more than I'd like to spend...

Hach apparently does have Iron test strips, that are about $25 ( for 25 strips ). If these are reasonably accurate, I'd be willing to spend that. They are said to show concentrations in the following manner 0.15, 0.3, 0.6, 1, 2 and 5 mg/L. If these are sufficient , I'd for sure be willing to buy them, figuring I could periodically test after installation to verify that it's working, and/or how long I could get between softener regenerations

Anyone know if those Hach Iron test strips are good 'enough'?

By the way, I am leaning toward another 2 tank setup, my last such setup seemed to serve me pretty well. I very much like the idea, that I don't have to worry about what day or time, my softener needs to regenerate . I would be going with the 9100STX, which from my understanding has a plastic body and not prone to the 'problems' that sometimes occur on the brass bodies ( although my brass body isn't really bad, I could rebuild it , if I really wanted to, but the cost of components, is not that far away from the cost of a new system, so I'm choosing not to rebuild it ).

So, are those Hach Iron test strips good enough... and is there really any particularly good reason to go with a single tank 5810 setup, over a 9100 twin tank setup. For me, the additional cost of the twin tank, is not a problem and I don't need the additional flow capacity that you might get with the 5810... but I'm not all that familiar with the 5800, and/or 5810 valves and what other benefits they may have. I've been trying to read up more on those newer valves, but so far nothing is jumping out at me as to why I should choose one of those over a 9100SXT setup.

 

[Bannerman]

One problem with strips, a specific quantity is not necessarily indicated, but only provides the sample's reactive color to compare to one of the kit's printed reference samples. The results are often a matter of interpretation or estimation. If for instance, the closest match is slightly darker than shown for 2 mg/L, does that signify there is 2.5, 3 or 3.5 mg/L of actual iron contained?

As the owner of a private well, you are your own municipality and so are fully responsible for the water's safety, asthetics and treatment. It is advisable to have the water fully tested periodically so as to determine all conditions to make certain any treatment systems being considered or in-place, are appropriate and remain configured correctly as water conditions can change over time.

When deciding on appropriate treatment, sometimes, the water's other conditions can affect which treatment method(s) is needed or recommended.

What is the programmed capacity, salt setting and tank size utilized for your current twin tank softener? Was any additional maintenance performed or precautions taken over the past 18 years to eliminate iron buildup from each resin bed and the valve internals?

 

[Glenn Wiltse]

I don't recall... I set it up initially, and other then adding salt, I never touched it again other then adding salt as needed. A few years ago, I had flood, one of my pipes burst , the water ran literally all day long. Not sure how many times the softener tried to regenerate that day, the softener never completely worked right after that, but did soften water for a few more years, until about 6 months ago, when it stopped completely

Honestly, I don't have any concerns about my water, if it were me, I wouldn't even have a softener. My wife insists on one... so, happy wife, happy life. We also have revers Osmosis filter and our drinking water comes out of that.

From what I recall, when I setup the old softener, I had it run a bit more brine then might be normal, and run the back flush for a bit more then normal, figuring I'd rather be overly cautious about getting the resin regenerated, rather then trying to scrimp on salt. Occasionally , at times in the last few years, the water would be noticeably harder before the next regeneration cycle happened , but not so bad that it caused us any problems.

Before I setup the new system ( which I just ordered ( 9100 SXT, dual 1.5 cubic foot tanks )) I'll double check my old setup to see how I was treating things previously, and also get a bit more information on my water's condition in it's natural untreated state. If my test strips don't tell me enough, I'll find some other way to get the information I need, or I'll just over compensate for the unknown/doubt.