Wonky plumbing

[Michelle B]

Before the tile goes up I feel that I should address this plumbing. Should the shower valve be sloped downward like this? (Delta multi choice). It points downward and to the left. It is also not lined up with tub drain. The spout is also off from center by about an inch. Should I expect this to be redone before proceeding? Thank you.

 

[wwhitney]

I would think so, but others may have a stronger opinion on the matter.

I just wanted to be sure you have a plan for proper waterproofing of your tub surround, including the joint between the tub flange and the cement board. [Typically cement board is installed to lap over the flange and stop 1/4" above the tub deck, which was not done in your photos.] Contrary to popular conception, while cement board, tile and grout are all water resistant, none of them are water proof; they will all water to pass through them. Which you don't want getting to your framing, so you need a water proofing layer.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Michelle B]

Thank you for responding Wayne. The contractor is using red guard. He put silicone from flange to cement board. Hopefully that will cut it? But this plumbing looks kinda off to me.

 

[wwhitney]

Redguard can do well for the cement board itself. But it alone is not adequate for that cement board/tub flange joint.

If the cement board were installed over the flange as is typical, with a small gap caulked with silicone or the like, and the cement board Redguarded, that would work. The overlap gives a shingling effect. I don't think Redguard will stick to the tub (not sure) or reliably bridge the current gap (quite sure). So as is, water will run down the Redguarded cement board, hit the gap, wick around the bottom edge of the Redguard, and get to the framing.

It looks like the flange is flush with the face of the cement board in some of your photos. That can happen if the framed opening is a little too big for the tub; it should be a tight fit on 3 sides. The usual way to address that is to fur out the framing as required so that the backside of the cement board is in plane with the face of the flange. That way the cement board can hang down and overlap the flange, as designed, while still remaining flat.

Furring and rehanging the cement board would be one solution to the current problem. It would also require resetting the shower valve to the proper depth to account for the furring. But it sounds like that may be required anyway, because I agree it looks quite wonky.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Michelle B]

The contractor put silicone around tub where it meets with cement board. Is this not sufficient with the red guard? Should I address this?

 

[wwhitney]

Silicone plus lapping the cement board over the flange is sufficient. Either alone is not.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[MACPLUMB]

It is off get a real PLUMBER to correct it before going any further

 

[PlumbNuts]

It is not unreasonable to demand a "Professional" job if you are hiring a Professional to do it. By all means hold them accountable.
That valve cannot be properly secured in the wall otherwise it would not be angled like that,
Yes the tub drain, the overflow, the tub spout,the valve and the shower arm all should be on a single verticle line and centered.
Is this contractor required to have this job permitted and inspected? Don't ask him ask your Building Standards official.
The domestic water plumbing has changed (addition/changing of valve) and therefore should be inspected by Code Official depending upon your states requirements.

 

[Terry]

I have never seen a more crooked or wonky valve.
The time to fix that is before the board and tile go up. Also make sure that the tub spout is copper with no PEX in-between.
You can have PEX to the valve inlets and to the shower head.