WIRING FLOAT SWITCH

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by Jazzman, Sep 11, 2019 at 9:39 PM.

  1. Jazzman

    Jazzman New Member

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    Installation of new submersible well pump is almost complete on low-producing well. Thanks to all who have shared their expertise!

    Final Question: Does it matter which hot wire you utilize to install float switch on 3-wire 230v pump. As I understand it the red wire is used on start up, the black wire is utilized once motor is up to speed. The wire you don’t use will remain hot?
     
  2. Boycedrilling

    Boycedrilling In the Trades

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    The float switch goes in one of the current carrying conductors between the breaker and the control box. Not between the control box and the motor.

    Personally I prefer to wire the float switch to control a 2 pole relay and break both current carrying conductors.
     
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  4. Jazzman

    Jazzman New Member

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    That’s interesting. Then it is acting the same as a pressure switch, right? Because a pressure switch breaks both current carrying conductors.
     
  5. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    Like Boyce says it is better to cut both lines using a relay. But the pump will shut off as long as one of the two lines is open, and will work the same way with a pressure switch.

    LOW YIELD WELL_ CENTRIFUGAL_PK1A.jpg
     
  6. Jazzman

    Jazzman New Member

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    That looks like a safer approach. So if I look for a relay would it be a dpdt(double pole, double throw)?

    Thanks to you both!
     
  7. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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  8. Jazzman

    Jazzman New Member

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    Finally, if anybody could recommend a particular contactor model for 3/4 hp 230 volt pump I would greatly appreciate it! Local supply house only had Franklin version for 3 hp pump priced at $175.00. Seems kind of pricey!
     
  9. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Will you mount it into a box? $25 price range? There are "definate purpose" relays that are a component that you mount on a panel and protect in a box.
    Do you want it enclosed and able to mount indoors on a box? Not that much more expensive.
    Do you want it rated for outdoor use? $75 price range?
    Do you want an auxiliary switch that can force the relay energized for testing?
    Do you want the coil controlled by 120 vac (hot and neutral)? 240 vac? 24 vac? Or you provide a contact closure, and the relay routes the power?

    Example: Functional Devices RIB01P30-S is an Enclosed Relay 30 Amp DPST and Coil Side Override w/ 120 VAC Coil. That side coil override is that switch to energize without the coil being energized. I would like to think that the switch is momentary, but I don't know at this time. This unit can mount on an electrical box. https://www.functionaldevices.com/downloads/datasheets/RIB01P30-S.pdf

    RIB2402B2G would be a 20 amp DPDT relay without the switch. Can accept 24 vac or 240 vac, depending how you wire it. https://www.functionaldevices.com/products/building-automation/details/RIB2402B2G/

    There are others.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019 at 2:55 PM
  10. Jazzman

    Jazzman New Member

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    Thanks so much for the suggestions! I’m going to mount it in non-metallic box inside pump house.
     
  11. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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  12. Jazzman

    Jazzman New Member

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    Thanks Valveman! In the schematic you posted with Cycle Sensor, doesn’t the coil in relay operate on 240 volt? There’s jumper from line 1 to coil. Coil is then energized when float switch is closed applying 240 volts to coil. Just trying to grasp the basics. Wouldn’t you need a neutral wire to operate 120 volt coil?
     
  13. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    I just linked to the first one that came up. Yes you either need to use a 240V coil or ground/neutral one side of the coil so it will work on 115V.
     
  14. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    valveman likes this.
  15. Jazzman

    Jazzman New Member

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  16. Jazzman

    Jazzman New Member

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    Ok, got it.

    Thank you!
     
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