Wiring clarification for recessed LED lights

[stardog]

Our home was built in the early 1960's and consequently still has much of the old wiring (2-prong receptacles, not 12-2 or 14-2 conduit as is used today). All of it is still in good shape. Over the years I have been able to upgrade some of the circuits to current code as I complete various interior remodeling projects around the house.

I have a single ceiling light in the hallway, controlled by two switches, that is still on an "old wire" circuit. I want to replace this ceiling fixture with two 4" recessed LED lights (strung together), with one dimmer switch (the second light switch will be removed from the circuit and no longer used).

Although knowledgeable, I am not an electrician. I was advised by someone with electrical experience that installing the recessed LED's, along with a dimmer switch, without upgrading the conduit to 12-2 is not a good idea and may not meet code. Something to do with potential grounding issues. I had never thought of this being an issue until now.

Does anyone know if this is true? That I need to upgrade the circuit that the current ceiling fixture is on to 12-2 (or alternatively create a separate 12-2 circuit for the LED's), before installing the recessed lights? What I assumed would be a simple swap out of ceiling lights now has me seeing $$$$ in the event I have to first upgrade the wiring. Many thanks for anyone's input on this.

 

[Reach4]

Does anyone know if this is true?

I would be shocked if that were true. What is this "electrical experience" you referred to?

The dimmer needs to be LED-suitable.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[stardog]

I would be shocked if that were true. What is this "electrical experience" you referred to?

The dimmer needs to be LED-suitable.

 

[stardog]

It was news to me, as I didn't think it made any sense. You, and others as well, seem to agree this is not a valid concern. So I will call my regular electrician (not the guy who gave the original advice) and have the lights swapped out. Tks for the input.

 

[Reach4]

It was news to me, as I didn't think it made any sense. You, and others as well, seem to agree this is not a valid concern. So I will call my regular electrician (not the guy who gave the original advice) and have the lights swapped out. Tks for the input.

I am not an electrician, but I have swapped out fixtures. If you can figure out which breaker to turn off, it's usually easy. Putting the dimmer in the box may or may not be easy.

The thing you should think about in advance is the "color temperature". The "warm" has more reds, and it is good for bedrooms. "Cool" is nice for work areas where you want to be alert.

What's funny a bit is that "cool" and "warm" are actually reversed from how they should have been named, or maybe keep warm as warm, and call the bluer color "hot". But it's too late now.

 

[Jadnashua]

Some of the more capable dimmers require a neutral at the dimmer. A typical on/off switch may not have a neutral in the box since it only needs to switch the hot line, so hot in, through the switch, to a switched hot out. But, to allow for control, many dimmers actually have an internal circuit which requires power on its own, thus, the need for neutral. One way to determine this is when looking at the wiring at the switch...if there's only one cable, unless it's a 3-wire cable, it does not have neutral. Having more does not necessarily mean there is one, but probably.