I found this article pipe prevention tips:
https://www.iccsafe.org/wp-content/uploads/DIS-FreezeBurstPipe.pdf
It published by the "Insurance Institute for Building and Home Safety". A couple of things they said struck me.
First. pipes typically break downstream from the ice blockage. so a pipe freezing half way though its run will expand against a faucet, and with no relief at the faucet, the pipe between the freeze spot and faucet is where breaks happen. This is why sometimes letting the faucet drip slowly can prevent the pressure that breaks pipes.
Conversely, supply pipes that are upstream from the frozen section will not usually freeze because the expanding pressure of frozen water will push pressure upstream to the supply source which is always open, and can that pressure be relieved by pushing back into the main supply lines. If this be true, I understand why that lead supply pipe might not break. If the water meter valve is closed and ice begins to form in the lead pipe, it can push the pressure back towards the city's main supply to relieve pressure. That makes sense, doesn't it?
This article also claims that insulating the pipes with foam, or other materials, can slow the heat loss from water in the pipes to the surrounding colder air, and prevent heat loss from the relatively warmer water supply, and help keep pipes from freezing.
I am now thinking to just close the valve at the water meter, and drain the lines and toilets. I may keep the heat on at 55, so if the furnace fails, then at least the pipes are emptied of water and won't freeze. A neighbor suggested disconnecting the water meter, and letting water drain out there, as that is the lowest point of all the water lines. That meter was replaced by the city a few years ago for a remote monitoring function, so I think it would come apart somewhat easily?