Why is my sprinkler pump is cycling?

[Kev123]

Hello,

I just recently had the pressure regulator replace (30 - 50 psi). And all was working fine. Then the pump started cycling(every 5 seconds) when watering lawn. I went to check the pressure tank. When I did water was coming out of valve. So I replaced the pressure tank(set to 28 psi prior to install) and ran the sprinkler system. All zones ran great (no cycling). But now it seems to be doing the same as before. It pegs at 50 and then runs and drops quickly to 30 and cycles (every 5 seconds).
What should I do to try and isolate the issue?

Thanks,

Kev

 

[Valveman]

Check the new tank. Sounds like you got a bad one.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Craigpump]

What brand of tank?

 

[Ballvalve]

Hello,

I just recently had the pressure regulator replace (30 - 50 psi). And all was working fine. Then the pump started cycling(every 5 seconds) when watering lawn. I went to check the pressure tank. When I did water was coming out of valve. So I replaced the pressure tank(set to 28 psi prior to install) and ran the sprinkler system. All zones ran great (no cycling). But now it seems to be doing the same as before. It pegs at 50 and then runs and drops quickly to 30 and cycles (every 5 seconds).
What should I do to try and isolate the issue?

Thanks,

Kev

If you have a small tank and a high volume pump, you might need to restrict the outlet with a valve to keep it running non stop, or add more heads, or turn up the off pressure until it keeps running while sprinkling. Those sprinkler pumps move huge volumes of water at a low pressure.

 

[Kev123]

If you have a small tank and a high volume pump, you might need to restrict the outlet with a valve to keep it running non stop, or add more heads, or turn up the off pressure until it keeps running while sprinkling. Those sprinkler pumps move huge volumes of water at a low pressure.

Ok - You are right! I turn on my zone 1 for sprinklers and turned on my garden hose. No more cycling. Did not have this problem in the past. Going to see if I can combine any of the zones. I don't think that will work for all of them. I guess my other option is to change the gizmos in the sprinkler heads to deliver more water. Not sure why this started zone 1, it has the most sprinkler heads and uses the most water.

 

[Valveman]

That is the problem the Cycle Stop Valve was designed to solve. It stops the pump from cycling. But most tank only systems will cycle every minute or so, not every 5 seconds unless the tank is bad. You can turn your pressure switch up enough to stop the cycling, but it is risky. There is a fine line between turning the pressure switch up enough to stop the cycling, and not turning it up so much the pump cannot shut itself off, which will just melt down the pump.

 

[LLigetfa]

There is a fine line between turning the pressure switch up enough to stop the cycling, and not turning it up so much the pump cannot shut itself off, which will just melt down the pump.

Cary, did you delete my post where I mentioned that?

Of course the CSV is the best way to fix this but there is still the point as to why it worked up until now. My guess is the pressure at which it is cutting out drifted off that narrow edge where it would not increase while the sprinklers were running. Another possibility is that some of your sprinkler heads are getting clogged and the GPM flow rate has reduced.

There are two old school ways of tuning the sprinkler system. One didn't use a pressure switch at all, just turned the pump on and off with the sprinkler controller. The other used a dole valve between pump and tank to limit the GPM.

 

[Valveman]

Don't remember seeing it. No didn't delete anything, at least on purpose. But my wife says I am like all old men, just punching buttons on the computer without knowing what I'm doing.