Why can't I wrap my head around the difference in a 10", 12", or 14" rough-in toilet?

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Terry

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That might be the Kohler Wellworth.
Same performance of all of the gravity Kohler products. For most people, they work fine.
So the question is, some medical issues mean a larger than normal stool. Normal is 3/4" x 4" long.
If you're dealing with a medical issue, then the Caroma may be a really good idea.
Or the pressure assist Kohler Highline. K-3493, not their gravity model.

The Wellworth you were asking about above is the same as what you have been using.
 
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BelowNovice

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That might be the Kohler Wellworth.
Same performance of all of the gravity Kohler products. For most people, they work fine.
So the question is, some medical issues mean a larger than normal stool. Normal is 3/4" x 4" long.
If you're dealing with a medical issue, then the Caroma may be a really good idea.
Or the pressure assist Kohler Highline. K-3493, not their gravity model.

The Wellworth you were asking about above is the same as what you have been using.
I think you are right, they look identical.

Are you aware of any pressure assisted toilets in a 14" rough-in? My googling is not coming up with any.
 

jadnashua

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Notice that the trapway on that toilet ends up going flat along the bottom then making a sharp right-angle bend into the drain. The average stool is relatively soft, but if you've got a harder, longer one, making that bend is tough and a clog point.

The UniFit adapters on some toilets like the Vespin is very smooth, consistent, loop that has the waste pointed straight down at the end and I've not found it to be prone to clogging.

The overall length of the toilet when using a round one versus an elongated doesn't necessarily mean that an elongated one ends up projecting into the room more...depends on the model and company.

If the RI is an actual 15", you can pull the toilet back towards the wall maybe up to 3/8", but I don't think I'd try that with the Kohler, as that would give the stool less room to make that final turn.

The Vespin II is 28.5" + a nominal 3/4" behind it, so add another inch, or 30.25" before you fudged it back a bit...so shorter than the round one you posted.

In most places, you can find the toilet for considerably less than the suggested list price. Unfortunately, though, it comes with a 12" UniFit, so you'd have to add the cost of a 14" one. No credit for the 12" one.

What most companies do to make a 14" RI toilet is replace the tank with a deeper one, leaving the front of the bowl an extra 2" further out into the room. Toto uses exactly the same toilet, and depending on the adapter, it will work on a 10, 12, or 14" rough-in with exactly the same distance behind the toilet.

Personally, I'm not a fan of pressure assisted toilets especially if you need to flush it during the night. They can be quite loud, and when they guts do need to be replaced, they are a lot more expensive than those in a gravity flush. Pushing the flush lever is harder, too.
 

RifRaf

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Just wondering if you have the necessary 15" from side wall to WC flange center. If it's less, particularly if it's 12" or 14", then the rough layout would appear to have been done for having the WC rotated 90 degrees from your drawing.
I agree with Wayne. If the toilet flange is 12" from the finished wall (between the tub and the toilet, why not turn the toilet 90 degrees so you have a broader selection of toilets with a 12" rough-in... or is there something else within the ?? mark area of the attached plan?
You would just need to move the water line that feeds the toilet.
rotate toilet.jpg
 

BelowNovice

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Ohh, I understand what you're saying now. Well the location of the door and already small vanity won't really allow for the toilet to be rotated like you suggest. Even if it did, aesthetically it would be way worse than the gap behind the tank.

So I ended up buying the wellworth...and just like you said its the exact same toilet I had before. I noticed the only difference is the tank has a few extra inches of basically...nothing. So is THAT the difference in a 10",12", and 14" rough in? Why was I under the assumption that the drain/trap of the toilet was relocated?

I feel like I got burned. I paid almost $400 for this toilet to have a 2" bigger tank than the same exact $170 toilet at HD?
 

jadnashua

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MOST companies just play with the tank depth and the bowl is essentially the same to make theirs work on different rough-ins, but like we've said, that is NOT true for ALL toilets. On the Toto toilets that use their UniFit adapter, the ENTIRE toilet is identical, regardless of whether you use the 10, 12, or 14" adapter to fit the corresponding RI. Look at page 3 of this installation manual. https://www.totousa.com/filemanager_uploads/product_assets/InstallationManual/0GU011Z_IM.pdf

This has a result of keeping the projection of the toilet from the wall identical.
 

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MOST companies just play with the tank depth and the bowl is essentially the same to make theirs work on different rough-ins, but like we've said, that is NOT true for ALL toilets. On the Toto toilets that use their UniFit adapter, the ENTIRE toilet is identical, regardless of whether you use the 10, 12, or 14" adapter to fit the corresponding RI. Look at page 3 of this installation manual. https://www.totousa.com/filemanager_uploads/product_assets/InstallationManual/0GU011Z_IM.pdf

This has a result of keeping the projection of the toilet from the wall identical.
I thought the concept of the Toto UniFit was basically "hard-wired" into these other toilets :(
 

Trump the Plumber

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I thought the concept of the Toto UniFit was basically "hard-wired" into these other toilets :(

I have to flush 10 times. I have plenty of water being near the ocean, but it is time consuming, and the party is outside, and I want to join them, and I'm stuck flushing ten times.
What is hard wired. Does toto hard wire all toilets everywhere? How do they do that? And why do they let them do that? Is it in the dead of night type of thing? Or is there some type of corrupt thing happening that we should be looking into?
Why didn't you buy a 12" rough toilet if that was what you had and it was working? You mentioned you hated how it flushed, did it take ten times like mine do? There once was a guy named Thomas Crapper. Some people still call out his name when things aren't flushing well. It's not his fault though, now it takes ten flushes and before when Thomas was making things, they worked with maybe two flushes? Is salt water bad for plumbing? We can pump from the ocean and we can get all the water we want. We don't make coffee with it though. That would be crazy don't you think?
I wish football would start, but then I don't like it anymore anyway. I once wanted to buy a team, but that didn't happen.
 

BelowNovice

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Why didn't you buy a 12" rough toilet if that was what you had and it was working? You mentioned you hated how it flushed, did it take ten times like mine do?
I've given up on looking for a toilet that is "uncloggable", I will buy a quality plunger and get my practice in :) The old toilet had a 3" or 4" gap from the tank to the wall, i was looking to close that gap the best I could because I've totally remodeled my bathroom. It looks like I CAN do that, but its going to cost me an extra $200 for just a larger tank. I was under the impression that different rough-ins would move the toilet entirely back. I apologize for not fully reading all of the suggested comments on here as my question was already answered multiple times and ignored the responses.

Honestly, it looks like the Toto Vespin II is going to be a bit out of my price range, I think $300-$350 is about as high as I want to go. Anything above that and I'll just deal with the gap in other means (one reader suggested a 'space saver').

I need to decide to either keep my $350 Wellworth or return it, and buy any 12" rough-in that looks good at Home Depot or Lowes I suppose.
 
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