Why am I still getting no soft water?

[RaulG]

Great forum, thanks for any advice...

So about a week ago I noticed that my tap water no longer had that silky feeling and using my Sofchek test strips it was reading about the 250 ppm.

I have cleaned out the brine tank and refilled with new Mortons System Saver.

I verified that my Fleck 5600 valve is filling the brine tank and drawing brine during the regeneration cycles. I took out the injectors and screen and cleaned them with a toothbrush but they didn't have any build up on them.

Today I changed the resin and replaced the distributor tube and lower basket as it had a slight crack in it. After reassembling everything and backwashing then putting it back in service, I still have hard water the same 250 ppm reading. The water doesn't have that silky feel to it. Yes the bypass valve is set properly.

Is there anything else I should do? There is a piston rebuild kit that has the seals, spacers and brine valve that I can get on Amazon but I don't know if it could be something else and may just have to bite the bullet and call a tech to come look at it. Is there anything else that can be checked or done or should I just call for a tech?

Thanks again.

 

[Reach4]

Check the cold since it takes a while for the softened water to make it thru the big WH tank.

I expect you are sure you did not leave the softener valve in bypass.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[RaulG]

Yeah put the bypass back in service, I suppose I could check that the bypass valve itself is working properly tomorrow. Just scratching my head right now of what else to check.

 

[ditttohead]

put the system through a manual regeneration by turning the large knob on the front clockwise. Turn the system until the brine valve on the back of the valve is depressed. Taste the water at the drain, it should not be salty for at least a couple minutes. If it is instantly salty to the drain you have a problem with the valve. Otherwise, wait 15 minutes, the brine should be completely removed from the brine tank. Let the system complete it regeneration cycle and retest the water.

Oh yeah, get a Hach 5 B test kit.

 

[RaulG]

Thanks for the reply. I noticed first thing this morning that the water was coming out soft at my kitchen faucet now as confirmed by taste and the test strips. Afterwards, I did what you suggested and the water was not salty tasting when the brine valve was fully depressed. Yes the brine well did drain & it when through its cycle & now has filled again.

So it seems to be functioning correctly now I suppose it just took some time for the soft water to flow through, I was unsure how long it would take to get to the faucets? The service guys at my local store where I bought the resin suggested changing the seals & brine valve on my 5600 anyways as they said they normally do this every 5-10 years on the Flecks. I've been in this house 4 years and do not know if the previous owner had that done or not. I did take the piston and brine valve off and put a little bit of silicone lube on the seals. Do you think it is prudent to get this kit
http://www.softenerparts.com/5600_Rebuild_Kit_Pistons_and_Seals_p/3456pskit.htm and change them out anyways or not needed if it is softening the water now?

Is that 5b kit much better than the test strips, I know the strips are made by Hach as well? I am running out so can reorder either.

Thanks.

 

[ditttohead]

The rebuild kit would be fine,

Definitely get the Hach 5B, it is a real test kit, the strips are only meant as an indicator. It would be similar to kicking a car tire, or using a pressure gauge,

 

[RaulG]

Ordered the 5B, appreciate the help. I now know more about my water softener than I ever thought I would have, just hope the soft water continues to flow lol.