The expansion tank is screwed into a steel stud with self taping #12 screws. I'm on the Home Depot Seeds program that provides free products to use and you must write a 250 word review. In December, I was able to get five different push and connect fittings, four of each except the ball valve. I used some at my son's house and few here. I only had to buy the 90º shark bite. I used a few glued elbows because my goal was the the WH or the expansion tank could easily be disconnected without cutting pipe. I thought about using copper but CPVC is used everywhere in Florida, it is very easy to cut and able to trim a little off if needed. The church is in unincorporated area in Orange County.
My son's house we did in January with the same fittings and with two teenage granddaughters, a tank booster was needed. Tank is in the garage. The hot water pipe was too close to the wall so the tank had to be angled. The expansion tank bracket is Tapcon'ed to the cement block wall.
This past week my second son called and there was water in the drip pan. We're pretty sure it's the T&P valve opening. A gauge one time read 120PSI yesterday. Water temp is 120º so no runaway thermostat. Each heating element draws 18.7 amps so no shorted out element making steam. Placed the T&P drain pipe inside a bucket and a little water does shows up over night and there is a back flow preventer at the meter. In two weeks he is on spring break (math teacher) and we'll install an expansion tank. Want to see something with his water heater!
It took me awhile to get it figured out. He bought the home about 8 years ago and the water heater was install in 2012. Don't worry it's all legal, just not pretty. I have it all figured out and when he day comes for a new heater, it will be all changed out, so will the electric. At one time the home had a solar panel of domestic hot water which I believed contributed to the mess.