Where to get an 8-inch toilet supply line/connector?

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Cfipp

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I am overhauling my toilets and replacing with all new guts: flush valve, fill valve, flapper, tank-to-bowl gasket, lever/handle - everything! I will also replace the old gray, flexible plastic supply line. The old supply line is 8" long. My house supply pipe is made of CPVC and I don't want to put undue stress on it. When I removed the old supply line, I noticed that it is just very slightly too long and its rigidity was forcing the CPVC downward from its normal resting position. I know that old CPVC can become brittle and I don't want it to crack - especially inside the wall!

I purchased two different new 9" supply lines: a braided polymer connector and a braided stainless steel connector. I have tried both of them and neither of those 9-inch lines has enough flexibility to get into that 8-inch distance between the supply valve and the fill valve. It puts way too much force and stress on the CPVC. There is just no way I can get a 9" line into that 8" space without tremendous downward force on my CPVC pipe.

Does anyone sell 8-inch supply lines? Or should I get a 16-inch or 20-inch line and put a loop in it? What is best practice? What do you experts recommend?

Thanks!
Carol
 

Cfipp

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@WorthFlorida, thanks very much for the confirmation that the 20" hose is the best option. Will get it tomorrow. Very eager to have this job completed and move on to the next toilet. :) Hoping the learning curve will pay off on the next one. But I've yet to learn if I will have any leaks in this first one. I'll post back, just for the fun of it. :)

Carol
 

Jadnashua

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Supply hoses are by far the easiest way to do that, and a longer one that you can loop should work well. IF you don't like the look of it, you can buy a solid riser and cut it to length, but that requires a hacksaw. You may also want a spring tubing bender if it needs a little offset to keep from kinking it if it needs bending.
 

WorthFlorida

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Make the connection at the valve first. At the valve an adjustable wrench is all that is needed. When you tighten the 3/8” fitting hold the CPVC pipe and fitting with your hand so as not break the pipe.
The connection at the tank is usually tighten by hand only but still give it a good turn. If you don’t have the strength a pair of pliers can be used but no more than a eight to a quarter turn from bottom.
 

Cfipp

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Yup, that's exactly what I did. (But then could not connect to the fill valve without system stress, so aborted.) Thanks for the reinforcement of the proper technique!

Jim, I think I have one of those spring tubing bender sets (tools acquired from Dad). When I make my trip to plumbing supply tomorrow, I will make a decision on which type of supply line.

Carol
 

Jadnashua

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A compression valve will have a place where you can put two wrenches...one on the valve body itself and a second one on the compression nut. You really want to use a wrench to hold the valve while tightening the nut.
 

Reach4

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You might consider rigid lines as an alternative. I recently wrote about that. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ow-rigid-supply-lines-work-but-i-didnt.78779/ The classic rigid lines are chrome-plated brass, but they have the same thing in plastic.

What I wrote is not a how-to, but it could help supplement what you read elsewhere.

I don't know if you still want a 6 inch flex line, but the Fluidmaster PRO1T06 and B1T06 are braided 6 inch toilet connectors.
 
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Cfipp

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@jim, that's what I meant: I used one wrench on the body and a second wrench on the compression nut as I had read quite a few times that should be done. (I've done nothing but read about toilets for the past five days.)

@Reach4, that was a great little tutorial! I didn't come across it until now, after I have completed my toilet, and it is just about exactly what I did. After reading many reports here, I replaced the old PEX supply line with a new PEX supply line. Used the old top nut and compression nut; new plastic ferrule.

I am happy to report that I turned on the water, slowly, and no leaks anywhere! New brass bolts, new tank-to-bowl gasket, new flush valve, new fill valve, new flapper, and new supply line are all holding tight. I am THRILLED! Woohoo!

Only one thing left to do: adjust the flush lever and flapper chain. It seems like an easy thing but I'll probably be fussing around with that for another
30 minutes to get it right. I may hunt around the forum for some tips on that.

ONE TOILET DOWN, ONE TO GO!

Carol
 

Jadnashua

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You want the chain loose enough so that it won't hold the flapper up, tight enough to ensure a full stroke of the lever, but not long enough to ever possibly get caught underneath it. Keep in mind that as the rubber ages, it tends to soften, and the top will sink in. If the chain is too tight, it could hold it up off of the seat and let things leak. But, about that time, it's probably time to consider replacing it. It all depends on what's in your water. Mine last about 3-years. Some people, barely a year if their water is heavily chlorinated, or maybe many more if you're on a well with nice water.
 

DaveDave

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Just wanted to say thanks to Worth Florida. I had about a 10 inch straight rigid tube that needed replacement. I bought a 12 inch flex braided supply line from Fluidmaster, and since the run from the valve by the floor to the connection on the toilet tank was just a about a straight line, the bend was going to be hard to do. So, I got the 20 inch one, and did the loop and all is good. So, thanks again!
 
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