Where to cut to replace the P trap?

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tala9999

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Hello everyone,
I need to move the shower drain to be aligned with the new shower base. Reading from the internet, I think this is also good time to replace the cast iron P trap by PVC. Already break the concrete floor to reach the P trap. My question is where should I cut the pipe? In the photos below, what is the best position to cut? 1 or 2?

Few other questions if you don't mind:
1. I guess 2 and 4 is one piece?
2. How is the P trap connected to 4? By threading? Some say they could be soldered together but I can't figure out.
3. I seems the vertical drain pipe is connected to the P trap at position 5 using thread?
4. There is a big pipe (about 7 inches I guess) numbered 3 next to the drain pipe. I have no idea what is is. There is a gap and I can look inside it. There is a lot of soil inside so I guess it's unused or abandoned. It's not made from iron when I use a magnet to test. Do you know what it is?
5. The cast iron P trap still looks not so bad to me. Should I replace it by PVC anyway? My house was built in 1963.

Thank you so much for your help.

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Smooky

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1) Yes That is cast iron pipe with a hub. It is one piece. 2) Hot lead was poured in to seal the pipe together. 3) Probably lead 4) No telling what it is. Could it be clay tiles? Back in the mid 1940's they used a fiber pipe with tar like coating called Orangeburg pipe.

You could cut the pipe back at 2 and use a no hub coupling to join the new pipe to the old pipe. Some people drill out the lead and use a rubber donut to seal the new pipe in the existing hub.
 

Reach4

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There are ways to have a shower base match the drain position instead of having a drain matching the shower base.
 

tala9999

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There are ways to have a shower base match the drain position instead of having a drain matching the shower base.
If possible, can you elaborate how to have shower base matches the drain position? I thought about raising the floor but it needs to be 10 inches or more and that's what I don't want to. One reason to break the floor and move the drain is because I also want to replace the cast iron P-trap which could be corroded after 50 years. BTW, I'm having the shower base with the walls already so I don't want to buy a different shower base.
 

Reach4

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If it is your intention to replace the current p-trap, then looking for a solution to fit the current drain location may not be of much interest.

If installing a new trap etc to match a base, check this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/-PDNxJG4Rtk

I have not made a study of shower bases, but here are a couple of threads that you might find of interest, and get you started:

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ckle-odd-shower-drain-rough-in-location.82766

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/shower-drain-over-header.84966/page-2#post-611482
 

Dj2

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To answer #5: That depends on where your new drain will be.
And now a Q:
what is your new base going to be?
- Fiberglass pan?
- Mud/mortar shower pan?
 

tala9999

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To answer #5: That depends on where your new drain will be.
And now a Q:
what is your new base going to be?
- Fiberglass pan?
- Mud/mortar shower pan?

I'm going to use a new Sterling Vikrell shower pan (center drain). Its drain hole is about 1 foot from the old one.
 
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