Joker
New Member
I've been reading some of the responses on this board over the past few weeks and I was wondering if someone here could help me out.
I've been mired in a kitchen renovation for the past month. In order to make the new cabinets fit, I unexpectedly discovered that I would have to move my kitchen sink drain about a foot and a half over from where it originally came through the floor. After removing the old cabinets and drain, I called my local plumber about my situation and the fact that I didn't have a vent to the roof. He gave me some advice on installing an air admittance valve, but told me that he would not be able to come to do my plumbing for quite a while, maybe several weeks (he is quite busy as there has been some bad weather here and he farms on the side). I'm only aware of the one plumber in my area (that's worth calling from what I'm told) and calling in someone from further away would cost A LOT more. I decided that I would try to do it myself.
Due to closed in walls and asbestos-laced insulation in the attic that I would rather not disturb, a proper roof vent is out of the question.
I did a heck of a lot of research and spent hours in the plumbing departments of Home Depot and Rona. I asked advice from people there and got all the pieces and tested them together. I got the drain hooked up and tied into the original copper with a 90° turn and a rubber coupling.
Now, when I fill and drain the kitchen sink, the water backs up from one sink into the other. This is annoying, but not serious, however, I'm planning to install a dishwasher in the next week or two and I don't want that water backing up into the sink. I don't recall this happening before and the previous owners had only used an air admittance valve rated for use in a rv.
The results of my work can be seen in the pictures below. In this photo, you can see the view from the basement.
And here you can see below the sink. The pipe coming from the drain goes up to an air admittance valve well above the drain height.
I'm considering replacing the 90° turns with a more gentle sloping 45° turns to speed up the draining. I also may see if I can get the copper pipe and drain out snaked. If i have to call someone from further away to fix this, I will or I will wait until the local plumber is available, but if there is anything I can do first, please let me know. Thanks for your time.
I've been mired in a kitchen renovation for the past month. In order to make the new cabinets fit, I unexpectedly discovered that I would have to move my kitchen sink drain about a foot and a half over from where it originally came through the floor. After removing the old cabinets and drain, I called my local plumber about my situation and the fact that I didn't have a vent to the roof. He gave me some advice on installing an air admittance valve, but told me that he would not be able to come to do my plumbing for quite a while, maybe several weeks (he is quite busy as there has been some bad weather here and he farms on the side). I'm only aware of the one plumber in my area (that's worth calling from what I'm told) and calling in someone from further away would cost A LOT more. I decided that I would try to do it myself.
Due to closed in walls and asbestos-laced insulation in the attic that I would rather not disturb, a proper roof vent is out of the question.
I did a heck of a lot of research and spent hours in the plumbing departments of Home Depot and Rona. I asked advice from people there and got all the pieces and tested them together. I got the drain hooked up and tied into the original copper with a 90° turn and a rubber coupling.
Now, when I fill and drain the kitchen sink, the water backs up from one sink into the other. This is annoying, but not serious, however, I'm planning to install a dishwasher in the next week or two and I don't want that water backing up into the sink. I don't recall this happening before and the previous owners had only used an air admittance valve rated for use in a rv.
The results of my work can be seen in the pictures below. In this photo, you can see the view from the basement.
And here you can see below the sink. The pipe coming from the drain goes up to an air admittance valve well above the drain height.
I'm considering replacing the 90° turns with a more gentle sloping 45° turns to speed up the draining. I also may see if I can get the copper pipe and drain out snaked. If i have to call someone from further away to fix this, I will or I will wait until the local plumber is available, but if there is anything I can do first, please let me know. Thanks for your time.