When do you need to replace a water heater

[richard8]

Hello,

When do you need to replace a water heater. I had spoken to plumber and he mentioned after 16 years. He said some water heaters last as long as 30 but others fail after six (6) years. What do I need to look for, i.e. failure signs, or other visual things to look for.

I currently have a bradford white 50 gallon tank, I believe it is 15 years old.

The recommendation for maintaining this water heater is remove two gallons of water 6 -8 times a year.

I keep hearing bradford white and Rheem are the way to go with a new heater.

Is there any other Home depot or Lowe's brands that are good. Or is this better to go with a licensed plumber.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Jadnashua]

Sometimes they just start leaking with no previous warning signs. Depends on if you want to deal with it when you want to, or just wait, then it's sort of an emergency. If it happens on a weekend or holiday and you want it fixed, it will cost a premium. If you can wait until the following normal workday, and live with the inconvenience, it's not.

Draining the crud out periodically is a good idea. If there are flakes of rust when you do this, it is time.

The anode rod is probably all used up but getting one that old out might be tough, and might break something else in the process. Depending on the water where you live, replacing that periodically may help prolong the WH's life.

The WH sold at HD are made by Rheme, so if you wish to pick up your own, are not a bad choice. A plumber may not cost more if he supplies one, and then you could get the Bradford White.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

heater

You replace it when it starts to leak. Obviously those that started to leak after 5 years never made it to the 14 year mark, and those that are 15 or over have passed it so that number, or any one, is useless.

 

[Gary Swart]

Stay away from Whirlpool. Very poor quality. As far as you old heater is concerned, it is rare for a heater to to have a sudden and catastrophic failure. Usually they begin to leak. This may be a nuisance, but it does give you some time to act before the bottom falls out. I would suggest the Rheem if you are going to DIY or the Bradford White if you are going to have your plumber install it.

 

[Sandpiper Plumbing]

The G.E. heaters made by Rheem and supplied thru Home Depot are NOT built to the same specs as Rheem and Ruud heaters. I had a lot of them fail during a 2 or 3 week period last year and got concerned, called Rheem, who told me they are built on a seperate line to Home Depots price points and specs and are in no way the same quality as a pro-grade heater that plumbers get at the supply house.
That being said...our local supplier dropped the Ruud line because of excessive leaks within the warranty period and we've been using A.O. Smith ProMax heaters instead for the last 2 years without a single problem from any of them. Bradford-White is a great choice too but if not available, I'd recommend an A.O. Smith anyday.

 

[Terry]

I hear from many Condo Associations that require replacement at ten years if the heater is located in the living area.
Water heaters in garages that would allow for little if any damage, I don't think they worry so much.
I don't see many heaters going twenty years, but it does happen. But I've also seen catastrophic insurance jobs when they fail within a living space.
Everybody likes saving a buck, it depends on your gambling instincts.

The heater below is 15 years old.
It had been installed over a drain pan and had been leaking for months.

 

[Drivesme]

I have a couple of related questions,
Do gas heaters have anode rods? And if so how often do you replace them?
Flushing or draining the heater to remove the 'crud', is this done with the water supply shut off or left on?
How often should this be done with 'normal' water conditions?

Stupid questions I know but for clarification proposes.
Thanks.

 

[hj]

Gas heaters do have anode rods. As far as I am concerned when the original anode rod is depeleted it has done its job, so I remove it and plug the opening. You flush the heater with the pressure on, but since it only flushes material at the drain valve opening, its value is overrated. Someday, I may flush my 12 year old gas water heater for the first time.

 

[Drivesme]

So water heater 'maintenance' is not needed?

 

[Ballvalve]

Water heater maintenance should double or triple its life. If the anode remains fresh, the tank cannot rust, or at a miniscule rate. Ships would sink daily without HUGE anodes on the hull. Europeans use electric anodes which are forever until the transformer dies.

There simply is no culture or recent histroy of water heater maintenance in this disposable world. My 6 ear reliance is now a twelve year reliance because I took out the pathetic 24" aluminum rod designed for 3 years and replaced it with a resistorized .90 magnesium rod that is 45" long. Added a real valve to flush it out. 13$ for rod and 4$ for valve.

Removing and sealing a anode port is like stopping treatment for a diabetic.

Here are some links for maintenance and its benefits:

http://www.inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Hot_Water.htm

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/what-kills-water-heaters.html

Rods are available from "Fiery Chili" hvac supply on line. Good, branded and cheap.

 

[Drivesme]

Excellent! Thank you for information!

 

[ilya]

Why would you fail to replace an anode rod upon removal of the spent one? My bald tire did it's job too-but I'm not driving on the rim. I'm with ballvalve on Waterheaterrescue.com. LOTS of edcation and parts to be found there.

 

[Jadnashua]

They don't just remove the bolts on the spent anodes on ships, bouys, etc. when they wear out for a reason...a new one will continue to help protect the device. Now, if it was totally spent, the damage done after it was gone may mean there's too much damage to help, but if it is replaced before it is exhausted, it will continue to help protect the unit. Now, if you can't do it yourself, and have to pay a plumber to come in and do it, it's probably best to just leave sleeping dogs lie...wait for it to start leaking, then replace the tank.

 

[Ballvalve]

True, but the guy that gets a reliance 6 year job, with the .6" 24" anode that should have been 54" practically gets a free water heater if he spends 13$ for a new magnesium .9 anode. and the new ones come out easy. Mine had enough pipe dope on the threads and the rod to plumb one house.

 

[Hairyhosebib]

Don't buy a GE from the Home depot! I had one six months and two holes formed in the tank.

 

[Drivesme]

I have a Bradford White and it looks like the dip tube acts as the anode, is that correct?
If so how do I know when to replace it and what do I replace it with?

 

[Ballvalve]

I think the outlet is where they put secondary anodes. It must have a primary with the 1-1/16 hex cap. Check out water heater rescue, he talks about finding the secondary anode

 

[Drivesme]

Nothing on top other than the inlet and outlet connections.
Is BW a good brand? I know I paid a pretty good price for it, even though they claimed it was 'deal' when buying it and the new furnace at the same time.
It was a new gas hook up so I had to switch to at least 3 gas appliances to keep the hook up few down.

 

[Jadnashua]

Bradford-WHite is a good brand. On some models, the anode rod is apparantly 'hung' from the inlet or outlet fitting, and not in a dedicated plug hole. I suppose this helps, as there's one less hole in the tank that could corrode and leak. Don't know that for sure.

 

[Ballvalve]

A good weater heater has 2 anodes, or more.