What wood? to use after removing cast iron tub?

[wwhitney]

I now see two different installation guides. One says backer board goes to lip. Another says to shim to lip. I'm gonna go ahead and say the backerboard goes to the top of the lip, not overlapping it.

Overlapping is the better practice, and it's not that hard to shim the studs. And the installation guide currently linked to from the product webpage at Kohler says to overlap.

I was thinking that and putting some sort of white bullnose around the bottom if I built the floor up. Then again, if I put the base recessed I'd still be doing that anyway. Do you have another suggestion?

A 32" wide receptor would be nice, but I guess that's not an opton. I favor cutting the tile and placing the receptor on the subfloor unless the solution you have for the receptor/tile transition works just as well with it lifted up. Which it definitely may.

That receptor/tile transition is definitely the hard part. I favor putting the receptor against the existing framing, and building the new wing wall out to at least as far as the existing tile. That leave an ~2" gap between the existing tile and the receptor, but only one edge, between two side walls. My first thought would be to find a matching size tile. If the color/finish is a great match, just fill in the area, removing any existing cut pieces. If it's not a great match, go with a contrast and fill in with a pattern/accent strip.

Another option would be to cut the tile in place a constant distance from the edge of the receptor, and install some coordinating rectangular tile in the gap.

On the other hand, furring out the back wall 2" to punt on filling in the tile has some attractions. I might just set the receptor first, then set notched 2x6s to sit on the bottom plate and sister each stud, providing the alignment required for the tile backer to overlap the receptor flange.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[NoviceLurker]

Overlapping is the better practice, and it's not that hard to shim the studs. And the installation guide currently linked to from the product webpage at Kohler says to overlap.


A 32" wide receptor would be nice, but I guess that's not an opton. I favor cutting the tile and placing the receptor on the subfloor unless the solution you have for the receptor/tile transition works just as well with it lifted up. Which it definitely may.

That receptor/tile transition is definitely the hard part. I favor putting the receptor against the existing framing, and building the new wing wall out to at least as far as the existing tile. That leave an ~2" gap between the existing tile and the receptor, but only one edge, between two side walls. My first thought would be to find a matching size tile. If the color/finish is a great match, just fill in the area, removing any existing cut pieces. If it's not a great match, go with a contrast and fill in with a pattern/accent strip.

Another option would be to cut the tile in place a constant distance from the edge of the receptor, and install some coordinating rectangular tile in the gap.

On the other hand, furring out the back wall 2" to punt on filling in the tile has some attractions. I might just set the receptor first, then set notched 2x6s to sit on the bottom plate and sister each stud, providing the alignment required for the tile backer to overlap the receptor flange.

Cheers, Wayne

The problem with setting the base first is, it's not going to move after it's down, especially if it's put in the opening. Then, it'll be impossible to get out. Trying to get 200lbs that has no place to get leverage on, it'll be impossible without a crowbar and I'm sure the enamel will be damaged in the process. What could alleviate the fitting issue is if I just level the void to the same height as the tile. Then I'd be able to put it in place and be able to nudge it if needed.

The floor tile is 80 years old last year. It's simple hexagon subway tile, but definitely has 80 years of traffic on it. Matching it would be tough. I could get a bullnose that will be the gray color of the what the walls will be painted?

Your last suggestion is to butt the base to the 60" tile side and 30" tile side, get some 2x6's, notch out 3 1/4" from the bottom so the full board becomes a shim? Did I get that right?

 

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[NoviceLurker]

And I chatted with Kohler. They directions on Home Depot links to an old instructions and needs to be updated.

 

[wwhitney]

The problem with setting the base first is, it's not going to move after it's down, especially if it's put in the opening. Then, it'll be impossible to get out.

Definitely worth planning things out so you can set it and not move it. And since the drain location differs depending on whether you have it against the current studs, or 2" out, you'll have to pick one option before setting it. Given the drain connection, it's not go to move after setting without a bunch of trouble, anyway.

Agree on not being to match the finish on the tile, but I would think if you could match the size, you could patch in a pleasing coordinated color as a little border against the receptor.

Your last suggestion is to butt the base to the 60" tile side and 30" tile side, get some 2x6's, notch out 3 1/4" from the bottom so the full board becomes a shim? Did I get that right?

My suggestion if you don't want to add any floor tile:

Butt the base to the 60" tile side (if it's straight and you can cut out the extra tile to extend that line), or just over the 60" side if you fill in the recess with plywood. On the 30" side against existing framing, notch the framing a little so the tiling flange is recessed enough for its face to be in plane with the wall studs. On the other 30" side, fill in any floor void remaining (if not done already). Build your new wing wall with studs that are against notched to go over the tiling flange to be in plane with it. Secure the new wing wall bottom plate (which has been ripped as required) to the subfloor using screws that avoid the existing tile.

Finally, for the back wall, I'm expecting a bit over 5.5" from the tiling flange face to the back side of the wall finish on the other side of the 2x4 wall. So sister each stud with a 2x6, notched to go over the tiling flange, full height from bottom plate to top plate. You'll also need to furr out the top plate.

Cheers, Wayne