What typically causes a pumptec system to overload?

[war_toad]

Setup: We have a low yield 0.5 GPM well and a 500 gallon underground holding tank. Holding tank pumps water into the house. Both the main well pump and the tank pump are monitored by two pumptec systems. The well pump was replaced 3 years ago, and the holding tank pump was replaced 6 months ago. The well is about 10 years old.

Issue: This has now happened twice, once over July 4th weekend and once now. Our house runs out of water. I go down to the system monitor and find that the pumptec for the holding tank is under loaded. The pumptec for the main well is overloaded.

When I reset the main well pumptec, it immediately starts pumping water from the main well and pumps anywhere between 350 to 450 gallons before shutting off. And then the holding tank pump tech system switches back to normal operation. Water is back.

Question. I know that when the pumptec system triggers an overload, it will not restart unless manually reset. So this is what has happened on both occasions, I didn't realize that the overload condition was experienced, we keep using all the water until we run the holding tank dry. That in turn causes me to look at the system and manually reset, and then everything works again.

My question is what in this case might be causing the overload condition? I checked the pumptec manual and I know what an overload is described as, but I don't understand, in practical terms, why it might be occurring. I had our local handyman check the wiring and voltage/amperage (whichever it was) and all seemed to be as it should.

Thanks for your consideration!

 

[Reach4]

https://www.waterpumpsdirect.com/manuals/Pumptec-Plus-Man.pdf says

A FLASHING YELLOW LIGHT indicates an overload condition occurred. This means that the pump system power draw was greater than the normal operating power (calibration) by more than 25% for more than 2.5 seconds. Pumptec-Plus will not run the pump system again until the RESET BUTTON (D) is pressed.​

Sounds like a re-calibration is needed.

When the well pump is working normally and the tank is low, how long does the pump run before getting cut off due to the well level having dropped? You may want to calibrate almost right after the well has had plenty of time to recover, rather than when the pump is ready to run dry.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

Re-calibrating as Reach says may do it. However, you could be getting the pump/motor hot. If it is a top feeding well you may just need a flow inducer or shroud. It could also be that the Pumptec is not shutting the pump off as it should on underload when the well runs dry. This will cause the motor to then get hot and trip the overload. If there is a big change in the water level there maybe more than 25% amp drop and the Pumptec will not work past that point.

If that is the case you may need something like the Cycle Sensor instead as it is infinitely adjustable. Plus you can actually see the amps on the display of the Cycle Sensor so you don't have to just guess at what is happening.

 

[war_toad]

Sounds like a re-calibration is needed.

When the well pump is working normally and the tank is low, how long does the pump run before getting cut off due to the well level having dropped? You may want to calibrate almost right after the well has had plenty of time to recover, rather than when the pump is ready to run dry.

I'm afraid I haven't observed this scenario (I think) as I don't often go down to check the system. Under normal circumstances I don't think the holding tank has much opportunity to go low because it will draw from the well when it needs it (but I don't know what "level" that is that it kicks on)

Today it ran for about 35 minutes and pumps 10 gallons a minute. The well is 360 feet so that is about normal, I'd say. But that was with a fully dry holding tank.

I checked the manual and saw that calibration is seemingly straightforward and adjusts the system to 125/75 for overload/underload. Is that in line with what you are suggesting?

 

[Reach4]

I checked the manual and saw that calibration is seemingly straightforward and adjusts the system to 125/75 for overload/underload. Is that in line with what you are suggesting?

Yes. I was suggesting doing the calibration described in the manual before giving up on that, and putting in a different pump saving system, such as https://cyclestopvalves.com/collections/cycle-sensor-pump-monitors

Another thing to consider is to add a low-water alarm to the tank to trip just below the normal low-level.

Yet another idea would be to detect that yellow light turning on, and blowing a horn.
There are gadgets like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333768464504?var=542846004480 needs 5 volt DC power. https://www.ebay.com/itm/223787998707 works with 6-14V DC.
The sensor could be taped with black tape over the yellow light. The relay contact sounds an alarm.... So some construction required.

Alternatively tap into the voltage for the light and detect that....