What tub spout pipe/adapter is this?

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KarenK

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Trying to replace my old cracked spout. I thought it was a threaded type spout. The spout was already cracked, so attempting to twist it off just cracked it a bit more and then I was able to pull it off.
However there is this fitting on the end - I am not sure if it was part of the spout or some adapter ?
I am having some issues getting it off, not sure if it is soldered on, or if i will need a plumber to finish this project. Wondering what type of spout I should order. Thanks
showerspout.jpg


showerspoutpipe.jpg


showerspoutpipe2.jpg
 
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Jadnashua

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What you have there is the remnants of the old spout...it's not an adapter per se, it's part of the old spout that broke off when you tried to remove it.

You also have a galvanized steel nipple coming out of the wall that should never have been used since, as you can see, it will always rust. If you can cut an access hole in the wall behind this, I'd do that to see what's there. Ideally, you'd unscrew that galvanized nipple, and replace it either with brass or copper with an adapter soldered on it so it can be screwed into the fitting in the wall. Then, depending on the type of spout you get, either a threaded on one, or a push on one, you'd get the new pipe sticking out of the wall the proper length and fit the new spout.

You could try to remove that fitting, but you'll need two pipe wrenches...one to hold the pipe so it doesn't move, and the second one to unscrew that fitting. The threads may be all mucked up, so a new spout may not screw on and seal properly. It's best to remove that nipple and find a new one to make the new spout fit.
 

KarenK

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ok thanks for the info. I can't get into the wall behind at all.
But can I go get an internal pipe wrench and try to remove the nipple (which I guess the pipe is inside the wall, so looks like the other end of the nipple will be inside the wall also?)
Then I guess I will need a new nipple - can I get a different kind and length, the kind so I can use a push on type spout?
It seems to me that a threaded type spout requires a specific length nipple pipe, is that so?
Plumbing supply store doesn't open until Monday so I am without a shower until then (can't get the old one back on).
 

Terry

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Using pliers or a pipe wrench you can spin out the pipe nipple. A new nipple then goes in, with either tape or pipe dope, or both.

A Delta replacement tub spout may be the easiest as you don't need an exact length on the pipe nipple .

delta-lahara-07.jpg


It comes with this adapter.

delta-tub-spout-install.jpg


delta-rp17453-terrylove-2.jpg



delta-rp17453-terrylove.jpg
 

KarenK

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ok thanks.
I will remove the old nipple today and see what is there, then go get a new one.
However I don't want to solder anything (that is beyond my tool set and not sure I am comfortable doing that!) so guessing I can use the C1 instructions for a slip-on that I already have picked out, or C3 instructions if I buy a Delta? C1 slip on then I need a copper nipple, or C3 I should get iron?
Thank you!
 

Terry

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C-3 is how this tub spout installs if you're using the Delta spout pictured above. It's also the easiest one for you to install.
 

Reach4

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C1 slip on then I need a copper nipple, or C3 I should get iron?
Nipple should be brass and not iron/steel. I initially cheaped out and got galvanized. A month later I replaced it with brass because a dose of rust would come out each time I ran the water.

Try to get a 1/2 inch brass nipple that will stick out close to 5/8 inches from the wall. 5/8 is the midpoint of the limits.
 

KarenK

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ok, just picked up some internal pipe wrenches to try to remove the nipple. However the attachment at the end has a tiny little lip, so I can't insert the proper sized wrench into the nipple.
I can't figure out how to get the attachment piece off, it might be rusted on? It's metal (thought the piece inside the spout was plastic, I guess that is why it broke off so easy). Any ideas? I've tried spraying it with vinegar to loosen any deposits and banging on it with a hammer?
This was supposed to a quick replacement project!
 

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Use a magnet to make sure that existing nipple is steel. It looks like it has rust and therefore steel, but it is easy to pick a magnet off of the fridge to check.

I did not have good results an internal pipe wrench. I like a 10 inch curved locking pliers. If you need more torque, you could use a second pair of locking pliers for the other hand to turn too.

milwaukee-locking-pliers-2.jpg
 
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Terry

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Your steel nipple is in very bad shape. You may be able to keep using it, but then you will need a tub spout that is an exact replacement for that to work. I'm thinking the nipple is toast and will be changed out anyway. I'm just getting you ready to open your horizons to it.
 

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FWIW, the nipple is the pipe going into the wall and you probably need a good sized pipe wrench to get it unscrewed. Don't worry about the piece on the end of it as you're going to throw the whole thing away. The reason I suggest you look at it from behind is incase unscrewing it might twist or damage something in the wall.

While vinegar might help with calcium based mineral deposits, it won't do much of anything with rust, iron oxide. A penetrating oil might help, but the joint you need to work on, is in the wall, not what's outside.
 

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I had to get the piece on the end off just to be able insert the internal pipe wrench. After a lot of doses of penetrating oil and banging and twisting, finally it came loose yesterday afternoon. Now need to do the same to the nipple. Hopefully it will come loose easily. It is definitely very corroded and I can see the pipe already warping from what I have done so far, so definitely going to replace it. Even the inside is corroded, so not sure how well the internal wrench will hold. So I will work on it during work breaks today. If it doesn't seem to be doing anything, I will try to get to the store again for locking curved pliers and try both.

I would like to NOT get iron because I can see how bad it corrodes. I am pretty sure this one is about 40 years old, that is about how old this house is and not sure anything has been replaced. So I will see about getting brass instead. Does brass have to be soldered on?

I don't think I can get the Delta spout (I had actually looked at that before), my trim is brushed nickle and that one doesn't seem to come in that finish.

Again thanks everyone for all the help!!
 

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Jadnashua

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Given the condition of your nipple, you probably need a real pipe wrench which will have a larger gripping area. If you have a Harbor Freight around, you can pick one up pretty cheap; not pro quality, but sufficient for occasional home use.

A brass nipple will have threads on both ends just like the galvanized one. They didn't use them as often because brass is more expensive than iron, and whomever installed it was cheap. The key is getting it the right length. If you have a slip-on spout, and you get a nipple that is longer than needed, you can cut it to length, clean up the end so it doesn't have any burrs on it, and slip on a spout then tighten the set screw. The end that screws into the wall will need either pipe dope or PTFE tape (or you can use both) to create a seal...do not just screw it in, it will leak. The end of the pipe needs to be smooth when using a push-on spout in order to prevent damaging the O-ring that is used to make the seal. If it's tight, a little silicon plumber's grease helps a lot.
 

KarenK

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Hi!
Great news, picked up a regular pipe wrench for $10 and got the old nipple off (was also dousing with penetrating oil).

Terry - The Delta faucet does look easier to install and I appreciate the information and search help, but I am not seeing many options for spouts that use that adapter (only found 2-3 options in nickle but I didn't like them). It may be that Delta doesn't give that much information - going to their website, it is hard to find any install details on any of the spouts, for anything that includes the adapter or requires it. I liked this one, but looks like it is threaded: Delta RP61357BN

There were also a few slip-on types that I like, including the Kohler Bancroft (which comes in threaded or slip-on), and Kohler has detailed install instructions available.

So the question is what length brass nipple do I get? Are they hard to cut (which I'd rather not do since I don't have tools for that)? Or do they come in fairly standard sizes? The current one was 4.5" long with 1/2" in the wall.

The Kohler spout instructions specifically says for threaded the nipple should extend 4-1/2" past the finished wall, so I guess that would require a 5" nipple? The slip on says the tube should extend 2-1/8" - 3-1/2" past the finished wall, so guessing that would be about a 3" nipple (1/2" in the wall + 2.5" out). Do slip-ons need a non-threaded smooth ended nipple?
The Delta doesn't say and I can't find any info/instructions, but digging through the reviews someone said to use a 4.5" threaded nipple (not sure if that is total or what needs to stick out of the wall).

I live in a remote area and there are not a lot of stores to shop at, so while I can go to the 1 plumbing supply or the 1 big box store nearby for parts, I have to order any nicer spout online, so I want to make sure I have everything correct before I order.

At this time, I'm leaning toward the Kohler threaded, so will get a 5" brass nipple threaded on both ends. Does that sound right?
 

Reach4

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For the nipple, you could buy a too-long steel nipple for fit. Don't use much tape, and don't tighten to the max. See how much too far the faucet sticks out. Maybe even leave it in place temporarily, and order the brass nipple of the size you need.

When you put the brass nipple in, use more pipe dope and good PTFE tape both. That will tend to make the faucet stick out more. But you will tighten tighter. That will make the faucet stick out less. So those effects will somewhat compensate.
 

Jadnashua

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Nipples are threaded on both ends. So, should you decide to use a slip-on spout, you'd have to cut the end (and thus, need a longer one) off or you'll damage the O-ring and it won't seal (the O-ring only seals on smooth pipe and won't reliably go past threads). Brass is easy to cut with a sharp hack saw. If you choose a conventional threaded spout, it can get a bit tricky as (especially Kohler) some require very exact positioning of the pipe or it either won't get tight when butting up to the wall, or it tightens up and leaves a gap. You can adjust when things get tight a little bit by adding an extra wrap or two of PTFE tape, but that's not always enough adjustability. Also, the quality of the threads can make a difference on how far things need to be threaded on to make a good seal.
 

KarenK

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ok - thanks everyone, I will let you know how things turn out in a few days.
 
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