What sediment filter for 6 unit house?

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Belmondo

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I just changed an 11 year old tank water heater and boy was there a lot of crap clogging the outlet pipe where I cut it. The tempering valves get a lot of crud too. So I'm thinking a whole house sediment filter is in order, I've heard it will extend the life of the equipment too.

I don't care about improving water quality, the water here is pretty decent, and I don't want to be changing filters frequently. I'd love to be able to sight inspect the filter and see if it needs cleaning. The place has 6 kitchens and 7 baths. What flow and filtration specs should I be looking at, and any specific recommendations?

Thx
 

Reach4

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Whatever you put in, I would put in at least two with bypasses. That way, you could change a cartridge in one without shutting down water to the complex.

Also, if you put cartridge filters into place, you might start catching enough stuff that you would decide to put in something bigger later.

Well or city water? How many PSI is your water coming in?

If I were to make a guess not knowing much, I would look at maybe 2 or 3 of these in parallel in housings. http://www.discountfilterstore.com/replacement-filter-cartridge-pentek-wp5bb20p.html On the other hand, that might be inadequate.

Note that the GPM ratings are probably right when the cartridge is new and flow reduces when you get stuff in the filter. I would definitely put in pressure gauges before and after to tell when the elements need changing..
 
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Belmondo

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Whatever you put in, I would put in at least two with bypasses. That way, you could change a cartridge in one without shutting down water to the complex.

Also, if you put cartridge filters into place, you might start catching enough stuff that you would decide to put in something bigger later.

Well or city water? How many PSI is your water coming in?

If I were to make a guess not knowing much, I would look at maybe 2 or 3 of these in parallel in housings. http://www.discountfilterstore.com/replacement-filter-cartridge-pentek-wp5bb20p.html On the other hand, that might be inadequate.

Note that the GPM ratings are probably right when the cartridge is new and flow reduces when you get stuff in the filter. I would definitely put in pressure gauges before and after to tell when the elements need changing..

Lot to ponder here, thanks. I'm not too concerned about downtime when I change the filter, I'll just do it during the day when most tenants are at work. I could put in a plain bypass too, a few minutes of unfiltered would not be the end of the world, it's been unfiltered forever! I like the before and after pressure gauges idea, is that common? The gauge I rummaged up says I have 60 psi in the basement. Sounds reasonable, this is the lowest part of the city.

You linked to a filter, but what about housing? The plastic ones make me nervous, I had one crack. The line is 1" copper.
 

Reach4

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The plastic housings seem to be pretty durable. Clear plastics are usually less durable. Do use silicone grease (I use Molykote 111) on the O-rings. Pentek Big Blue 4.5 x 20 housings are available many places. So are the brackets. I would definitely want the Pentek brand. The brackets could be generic IMO. The housings are intended to mount to the bracket with 5/16 x 1 lag bolts. You want a way to release the pressure before unscrewing. The filter housings with a red button allow you to do that if you don't have another way.

The right column of that page has housing, wrench, and more. Check other stores too. I like that site because it has a great finder where you can select size, microns, GPM and more.

Note that when you remove a housing, it will be full of water, and so will be somewhat heavy. So you would prefer to not have to work at arm's length.

When I screw the blue housings back to mounted black part, I turn CCW until I feel the seating into place. Then I go CW. This prevents cross threading.
 

Cacher_Chick

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With the kind of flow rates you could have, you need a commercial backwashing filter or separate residential filters for each unit.
 

Dj2

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You say you have good quality water - what about your pipes?

Individual "under sink" filter for each apartment could work in a small bldg.
The drawbacks:
1. Who will do the filter changing? filter averages 3 months X 6 units = 24 filters a year, or more.
2. If you let the tenants do the changing, expect disasters, such as water leaks.
3. Unchanged, dirty filters are worse than no filters, so expect complaints from tenants.
4. Cost of filters: About $120 a year plus labor. Cost of filter housings and fittings: About $300. Plus tax.

A commercial system will be more expensive, but could be cheaper in labor.

You still have the options of:
A. Do nothing.
B. Install a filter at the water heater.
 

WorthFlorida

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For a six unit building those household sediment filters (one filter) will not cut it for all six units, maybe one for each unit. The crud you found is probably not from sediment but from the minerals in the water, electrolysis effects and a depleted magnesium rod. Sediment filters is just for sediments only. That is solid material suspended in the water. If you think you need water treatment then call on a company that does just that. They'll know of water conditions for your area if it is city or well water. Have the water tested, maybe all is needed is a water softener?
 

Jadnashua

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After you shock your well, you might get a bunch of dead organic material. Filters come in all sorts of fineness for how small of a particle they will allow to pass. You can get them fine enough so that they will block viruses, but once you get that small, any suspended material tends to clog it very quickly and the pressure drop and volume goes way down. So, it really depends on what you are trying to keep out of the pipes as to what filter you choose and that's hard to determine unless you have a water quality test performed to find out what is in it in the first place.
 
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