Well Water system Intermediate Loss of water pressure

[Morning Dew]

System info: sub pump with check valve between water line from pump right before the tank tee, tank is a in pit that is about 6 feet from the well head and 20 feet from the house. The pressure switch is a 40/60 and is new as of the end of May 2016, the tank has recently been correctly pressurized and does not show any signs of air leakage. A copy of the original drillers report is here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B93S3NALhNzBUHVnbGY5eWxTQnM

Issue: Occasionally and more often after a high use call for water, the pressure drops to zero and the pump keeps running with no PSI increase.
To correct the issue: I cut pump power, wait 2 to 10 minutes and turn power back on, the system re pressurizes to normal and the pump shuts off usually within 120 seconds
Frequency of occurrence: Started about September of 2015, happened about once a month but has been slowly increasing currently happens 2 to 3 times a week.
Normal Function observed: Cycling with water running: Pump stays on for 40 seconds and off for 90 to 120 seconds
Sound: Frequent grinding noise, often sounds like it is pushing a lot of sediment, Also Hammer noise more noticeable in colder temperatures
Newer sound: at the point where the water comes in the house, i can hear the water flowing during a call for water, this is a new sound that was not there before
Sediment level: Always has been high, i will install a filter soon but have not yet. I have to clean out the washing machine screen filter at least every 4th load.
Failure Observation:
I start viewing the gauge/pit set up with high call for water(washing machine rinse cycle) at a time when pressure is between 40 and 60 so pump is off. Pressure drops to 40, pumps kicks on, pressure gauge needle bounces erratically and gasping noises from tank occur, pressure gauge seems to briefly rest at 20psi and then drops to zero, the pump is still running, the pressure does not rise.
I cycle power to pump and watch, within the first 10 seconds I hear a rush of water and gauge jumps up to 40psi(How could it get from zero to 40 in 10 seconds?) then it takes about 90 seconds for psi to get to 60 and shut off. Then we wait for 15 seconds and turn the washing machine back on, seemingly strange observance here is that it takes a full 5 minutes and 15 seconds to drop from 60 to 40psi. Then it seems to be back to its normal cycling, except the pump on time is slightly longer than normal at about 60 to 70 seconds.

So what could be the problem(s) here?

 

[Reach4]

You want to measure the current to the pump during normal pumping and during the failure. A good way to do that is to use a clamp-around ammeter looking at one of the 4 wires to or from the pressure switch.

Out of water? Pump shutting off due to overheating? Both? The current will tell.

Tell us about your hammer noise. One bang at start, at stop, or what?

10 seconds to rise from zero to 40 PSI may seem slow, but you may have loads that are taking water, and that would slow the rise to the precharge pressure. If 10 seconds seems fast, remember that the pressure tank does not accept water until the pressure rises to the precharge pressure.

When the pump has turned off at 60 PSI, and you turn the washing machine on, the pressure tank is supplying the water. Your washing machine is drawing a fairly low amount of water. I don't know if this is during the fill cycle where the water draw would be max. A partially clogged inlet filter could slow the flow. If you use a warm water fill, the fill may go significantly faster than for a hot or cold fill, because both hoses are carrying water in parallel.

 

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[Morning Dew]

I will measure and report the amps. Hammer is One bang at start

 

[Reach4]

I will measure and report the amps. Hammer is One bang at start

There is very likely a check valve down the well in or at the pump. It would be best to remove that topside check valve or to gut out its insides.

 

[Morning Dew]

Yes, I was thinking this too about the topside check valve, after looking around the web and seeing very mixed opinions, my feeling was that it shouldn't be there in the first place, but seems to be common practice to install them inline right before the Tank Tee inlet. As far as diagnosing my main issue, will removing it help?

 

[Reach4]

As far as diagnosing my main issue, will removing it help?

I very much doubt it.

 

[Morning Dew]

I very much doubt it.

Am I thinking correctly that it is acting somewhat as a "band aid" if the lower check valve is failing?

 

[Reach4]

Am I thinking correctly that it is acting somewhat as a "band aid" if the lower check valve is failing?

Much discussion. The arguments for a single CV or one in the pump and the other within another 20 feet make sense to me. The proponents of top and bottom CVs seem to say it does not cause a problem Yes, it can be a workaround. There is even one state where it is required. :-(
One added advantage of not having a checkvalve above ground, it keeps the system pressurized, even if there is a small leak in the piping.

 

[Valveman]

Removing top check usually makes bottom check work better. If it isnot too late. If it is too late, bottom check has got to be replaced anyway.

 

[Craigpump]

Sounds as though the pump maybe failing, especially if it's the original unit. An Amprobe will definitely give more info, if the pump is drawing high amps and kicking out on thermal overload, it won't run again until it cools off.


Lots of talk about multiple check valves.. Standard practice in CT is one on the pump & one at the tank. I've never had a water hammer issue.

 

[Morning Dew]

I will pull the top check and measure amps at normal and fail cycles, the pumps never kicks off, I wish it would because I don't always catch it right away during the low/no pressure issue.