Well storage system

[BJC]

Our system is set up with 2 pumps. The well has been set up on a timer to the tank for the past 25yrs. (4 times a day 3 tminutes each cycle) The timer finally fizzled. If I use the Coyote to protect my pump would I need a timer with it?

 

[Reach4]

Usually for filling a tank, you would use a float switch as the primary control.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

Yeah a float switch in combination with a Cycle Sensor is the most common way to fill a cistern.

 

[laughlinfamily1]

I am looking for advice on installing a home water storage tank system. I have a low-yield well and have researched some options through this website and others. I am a novice but somewhat capable handy-man and believe I could install it myself. I have most of the parts required, though I have yet to obtain a tank. I am wondering about the float switch. I have a Pumptec device to protect my submersible well and a control box (without a capacitor). I have read several wiring diagrams for wiring these together but have yet to understand how to wire in the float switch for the submersible (primary) pump. Can any float switch be wired into this system, or do I need one float switch that is closed (turning the pump on) when down to fill the storage tank with the primary submersible pump, and a different type of float switch that is closed when up, keeping the booster pump potentially on, and open when down to protect the booster pump front running out of water in the tank? That is, can any float switch be wired to be closed when up or closed when down?

 

[Reach4]

a control box (without a capacitor).

You may be referring to a pressure switch.

In your new setup, the submersible in the well will fill the atmospheric tank. It will be controlled by the float switch, and no pressure switch or pressure tank will be involved in that side. You will add a pump, which functions as a "pressure pump". That pump will be controlled by a pressure switch and will have a pressure tank.

The kind of float switches you will need can be identified as "pump up" or "normally closed". The other kind is like what you would use in a sump pit.

 

[laughlinfamily1]

Thank you for your rapid response. I intend to continue to use the existing pressure switch associated with the pressure tank (or maybe increase the pressure from a 20 - 40 psi switch to a 30 - 50 psi switch to boost the pressure in the home water system). So as I understand what you are saying, there are two types of float switches, one "pump up" or normally closed, and one "pump down" or normally open. The diagrams I have seen make use of both of these switches, one normally closed (submersible pump off) which will turn the pump on when the water level in the tank drops below, maybe 10 or 15 gallons down, and then one or maybe even two float switches (the second at the very bottom of the tank to protect the booster pump), which are closed (booster pump potentially on) when the float is up, and open (booster pump not allowed to be on) when the float is down. Then the pressure switch will control whether the booster pump actually turns on (when it is allowed to be on with the float up). Please correct my though process if that is incorrect.

 

[Reach4]

Your thought process seems correct to me.

Incorporating "pressure pump", with the quotes, into some of your searches may find some relevant stuff.