Well pump replacement and bad advice

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cichyb

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Ok so about 4 years ago my well pump went out. Its 265 feet down. its 1 hp 3 wire with franklin control box.

well now the pump is dead ohmd out red/yellow 4 ohms red and other yellow 4 ohms 2 yellows together and got nothing when im supposed to have 13 i believe. new control box, new pressure switch, have power getting to the control box. I think where i went wrong is i bought this pump from orschelin farm supply and didnt read what total lift head was (which i believe was 207 feet) and always had crappy water pressure.

now did i burn it out due to the insufficient lift?

the one i bought this time has a lift head of 380 feet its a
Red Lion 1 HP Deep Well Submersible Pump (3-Wire 230V) w/ Control Box

now i am regretting having to pull it out again.---ugh.

 

Reach4

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Your pump description did not identify the pump. However some use that description for a RL12G10-3W2V, which a 12 GPM pump. http://redlionproducts.com/clean-water/4-submersible-well-pumps/

It is the depth to water that matters -- not the depth of the well. That 12 GPM pump would have be acceptable for water about 200 ft down.

You would probably be better off with a 7 GPM pump for normal household use, but check the numbers. If you wanted a 12 GPM pump, you would need at least 1.5 HP, looking at the tables on that link above.


well now the pump is dead ohmd out red/yellow 4 ohms red and other yellow 4 ohms 2 yellows together and got nothing when im supposed to have 13 i believe.
I suggest you put some effort into making that more understandable.
 
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cichyb

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Your pump description did not identify the pump. However some use that description for a RL12G10-3W2V, which a 12 GPM pump. http://redlionproducts.com/clean-water/4-submersible-well-pumps/

It is the depth to water that matters -- not the depth of the well. That 12 GPM pump would have be acceptable for water about 200 ft down.

You would probably be better off with a 7 GPM pump for normal household use, but check the numbers. If you wanted a 12 GPM pump, you would need at least 1.5 HP, looking at the tables on that link above.



I suggest you put some effort into making that more understandable.
i took the black by itself and tied the yellow and red and got 4 ohms
i took the yellow by itself and tied the red and black and got 4 ohms
then i combined the yellow and black together with the red (start by itself) and got no ohms.

sorry ive been frustrated. and yes that is the pump which is the 12gpm with a household of 5 women and my son and I
 

Reach4

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You would be better to take 3 readings, with only 2 wires each. Leave one wire disconnected for each reading.
 

Reach4

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Three readings measuring resistance:
1. Yellow to red wires (black not connected)
2. Yellow to black wires (red not connected)
3. Red to black wires (yellow not connected).

Also, do you know what wire gauge you used?
 

cichyb

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Three readings measuring resistance:
1. Yellow to red wires (black not connected)
2. Yellow to black wires (red not connected)
3. Red to black wires (yellow not connected).

Also, do you know what wire gauge you used?
 

Reach4

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yellow to red no ohms
yellow to black 4 ohms
red to black no ohms

By no ohms, you are saying no conduction. The digital meter would typically show a blank display or some such, rather than digits.

That is compatible with the red wire being broken or that splice came loose. The probleme could be the pump also.
 

Valveman

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You need to remember that 50 PSI pressure in the tank is the same as 115' extra lift. So from 265' deep the pump needs to be able to produce 380' of head just to get to 50 PSI in the tank. I am sure the 207' pump just melted down from not moving any water at pressure.
 

cichyb

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well the pump was fine..still to small though at 207 feet for a 265 deep well, my cable is toast though. Well at least the red is, end to end it doesnt ohm out.
One thing that bothers me is that they installed; prior to me replacing it; 3 wire and no ground connected. Guess i didnt pay much attention back then either and wired it in with 3 wires and no ground. I am going to a 4 (black, yellow, red and ground wire) but should i use 10 gauge or 12. the pump pulls 9.8 amps.
 
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Reach4

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If I read correctly, for 230v 1 HP 12 gauge is OK for 400 ft from the breaker box all of the way down to the pump. For 1.5 HP, that would be 310 ft.
 

cichyb

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If I read correctly, for 230v 1 HP 12 gauge is OK for 400 ft from the breaker box all of the way down to the pump. For 1.5 HP, that would be 310 ft.

so is it wise to use 3 (YBR) wire and the ground. just dont know what they didnt do that last time. or is it necessary
 

Reach4

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It used to be common to only run the 3 wires. A new install with new wires run the whole way, you would run 4 wires counting ground. For where you are only replacing 3 existing wires going down the well, I am not sure if 3 wires are enough to meet the rules or not. They are enough to make the pump run.
 

cichyb

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It used to be common to only run the 3 wires. A new install with new wires run the whole way, you would run 4 wires counting ground. For where you are only replacing 3 existing wires going down the well, I am not sure if 3 wires are enough to meet the rules or not. They are enough to make the pump run.

i live in county so we have no stipulations,if that is what you mean, but as far as safety of the pump would it be ok? what are the repercussions of not using the ground. guess its about cost right now since i bought a pump and didnt expect wiring. they have 3 wire at lowes that is a red/black/green-- guess green would be used as the yellow..
 

Reach4

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It is safe enough for my pump to not have a ground wire run, but mine is in a steel casing. I don't know about others.
 

Craigpump

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i live in county so we have no stipulations,if that is what you mean, but as far as safety of the pump would it be ok? what are the repercussions of not using the ground. guess its about cost right now since i bought a pump and didnt expect wiring. they have 3 wire at lowes that is a red/black/green-- guess green would be used as the yellow..

NEC code states that pumps, steel well casings & well caps have to grounded back to the panel. For an older 3 wire installation with buried wire not in a conduit, you would install a 2 wire pump, use the black & red as hot and dedicate the yellow as ground.
 

Reach4

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NEC code states that pumps, steel well casings & well caps have to grounded back to the panel. For an older 3 wire installation with buried wire not in a conduit, you would install a 2 wire pump, use the black & red as hot and dedicate the yellow as ground.
I really think there would be some disagreement about that being required, and I even suspect a yellow ground wire might not be permitted-- as logical as it seems.
 

Craigpump

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I really think there would be some disagreement about that being required, and I even suspect a yellow ground wire might not be permitted-- as logical as it seems.

A yellow wire tagged with green tape on both ends to indicate ground has been accepted by our local building inspectors.

I think you should review the NEC code, or go do an install improperly and have the inspector (building or home if for a real estate transaction) fail the installation because of improper grounding and bonding.
 
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