Well Pump Pressure Tank Size?

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RacinRob

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Hi All, first post.

I know this is an old thread, but it had some good info, so I figured I would continue from here.

I have a galvanized tank that is starting to leak through the side. Obviously I need to replace it. I did the calculations above and this is the results....

I drained the tank, put in 25PSI or so of air, even though that may not be required in this type of system with snifter valve. Filled the tank. Drained till when the pump started and it ran for 1 min 10 secs. I then drained again measuring water till it turned on again. I pulled about 28 gals out of the tank till it turned on and ran for 1:10 again to fill. Does that mean I need approximately a 112 gal bladder tank minimum to satisfy my run time? Need to order new tank ASAP before I get a real blowout in the old galvi one. My current galvanized tank is about 5' tall and 24" across which calculates to about 120 Gallons.

Thanks, Rob
 

Reach4

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My current galvanized tank is about 5' tall and 24" across which calculates to about 120 Gallons.
How many GPM is your pump?

Don't know? How deep is your water, and how many HP is your pump?

If you want to put a 119 gallon precharged tank in there, I am sure that will be plenty big. I suspect an 81 would be big enough also.

The more I think about your methodology, the better it is sounding.

On the other hand, you proabably have a system that is adding air. If you get a precharged tank, there will be nothing to remove that added air. You may have to do something to keep that air from being added. That may be as simple as removing/gutting the topside check valve. If that does not do it, it may involve lifting the well pipe up 10 ft or so and removing the or plugging bleeder.

http://www.amtrol.com/media/documents/wellxtrol/MC7025_04_14_WXTsizingCard.pdf

I am not a pro.
 

RacinRob

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How many GPM is your pump? I have no idea. I have been in this house for 23 years and have no records of the pump. All I now is that if it filled the +-28 gals in a minute it should be close to that I would think? But again that should depend on depth some?

How deep is your water, and how many HP is your pump? Again, I do not know. I am sure there is record of the well depth somewhere, but I do not have it on hand. I may need to hit the county for that.

The system adds air through a snifter valve. I know if I put in a pre charged tank I need to plug that. It is readily accessible. I had to replace it a a time or two from corrosion.

Thanks for the quick reply. If I don't answer any more questions today it is because I am headed out the door for the next 2 days. I will respond to any more help when I return.

Thanks again.
 

Reach4

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The system adds air through a snifter valve. I know if I put in a pre charged tank I need to plug that. It is readily accessible. I had to replace it a a time or two from corrosion.
You have a check valve between the snifter valve and the tank. If you gut that check valve, the system will maintain pressure in the down pipe.

The downpipe has an orifice maybe 10 ft down. It could just be a hole, but ideally it will be a more sophisticated. https://www.flomatic.com/assets/pdf_files/oem/16016.pdf says 18 ft down. I guess things vary.

You may not have to plug that. If the valve works well, the maintained pressure will keep that valve from leaking much water.

You could cap off the snifter valve too. It should not admit air if there is pressure, so that may not be needed.

Alternatively, you could get a new tank with an AVC (Air Volume Control). Sometimes the air helps treat the water for iron or H2S to an extent.
 
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Valveman

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Yeah like Reach says make sure you don't have a air over water tank for a reason. If you have Sulfur or Iron in the water and you switch to a bladder style the water will turn slimy and stinky.
 

RacinRob

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There is not a visible check valve in the system between the snifter and tank. The pipe comes out of the ground, makes a u turn and back into the ground then to the tank. On the flat part of the "U" is the snifter. Could a check valve be incorporated into the snifter housing? Looks to be 1.5" pipe, possibly larger.

We may have iron rich water since the toilet tank turns reddish color.

I see Lowes sells a powder coated inside and out 120 gal steel tank. If I stick with this style vs bladder style do you think the Lowe's tank would work, or should I stay away from big box store equipment?
 

Valveman

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With "iron rich" water and reddish color, you need to stay with the air over water type tank. The Schrader is probably screwed into the check valve. Maybe TexasWellman will come on and advise which brand of galvanized tank is preferred.
 

RacinRob

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It looks like this.

Next question, should the snifter be normally open or closed? The inside of the shredder valve was rusted so I bought a new one a while back. I bought normally open which seemed logical due to when pump not running air could enter the system then when pump turns on it adds air to the tank with the valve being closed.
 

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