Well pump gauge jump while pressurizing

[sunroomguy]

I just bought a home with a submersible pump and 32G Amtrol-Well-X-Trol tank. Pump turns on @ 32 PSI, runs for only short time and turns off. Pressure increases on gauge until 40PSI, quickly jumps to 60PSI and then turns off. Pressure then drops to 40PSI until water is used at any faucet. What causes the rapid jump in pressure? thanx in advance for your advice.

 

[Reach4]

I just bought a home with a submersible pump and 32G Amtrol-Well-X-Trol tank. Pump turns on @ 32 PSI, runs for only short time and turns off. Pressure increases on gauge until 40PSI, quickly jumps to 60PSI and then turns off. Pressure then drops to 40PSI until water is used at any faucet. What causes the rapid jump in pressure? thanx in advance for your advice.

1. How far separated are your pressure gauge, pressure switch, and pressure tank?

Pump turns on @ 32 PSI, runs for only short time and turns off. Pressure increases on gauge until 40PSI, quickly jumps to 60PSI and then turns off.

2. runs for what-- 10 seconds? Does the pressure gauge rise to 40 before the pump turns off or a while later?

3. Is the pressure switch new, what is it supposed to be (30/50 psi?), and did you adjust it?

If you have a 30/50 pressure switch, you should adjust the air precharge to 28PSI. Precharge is always measured and adjusted with the water pressure at zero. I am not sure of your symptoms. If the precharge was at 38 PSI, I would expect the pressure to rise to 38 or 40 very quickly.

I am suspecting that either your pressure switch and pressure gauge are not together or something is clogged. The old nipples may have deposits that keep the gauge from seeing the pressure for a while. If the gauge and switch and pressure tank are not together, I would make them so. I would clean out or replace any old pipe nipples.

You might post a picture of the pressure switch, pressure gauge and pressure tank inlet area if you can get them in the same picture.

 

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[sunroomguy]

1- very close
2-maybe 5 seconds. Does the pressure gauge rise to 40 before the pump turns off or a while later? YES, increases to 40 but then quickly jumps to 60 then turns off.
3- I have not adjusted. will need to check if its 35/50. thx

 

[Reach4]

I don't know what would cause your spike to 60 on the gauge followed by a quick drop to 40.

Do you have an above-ground check valve? I am not saying that would cause the spike. I am thinking of some kind of water hammer, but I can't picture how that would happen.

 

[JRC3]

How old is the pressure tank? Could it be waterlogged? Have you checked the pressure at the Shrader valve? I'd almost expect to get some water out of it when you check it. IDK.

Did the problem start after purchase of the home? Just ccurious if you had the home inspected and if the inspector noted anything about it.

 

[Valveman]

Check the air pressure in the tank. It is either too high or too low.

 

[MI Well Drilling]

Sounds to me like a bad gauge and a weak spot in the bladder of the tank. I've seen them act just like that expecially well xtrol 203

 

[sunroomguy]

How old is the pressure tank? Could it be waterlogged? Have you checked the pressure at the Shrader valve? I'd almost expect to get some water out of it when you check it. IDK.

Did the problem start after purchase of the home? Just ccurious if you had the home inspected and if the inspector noted anything about it.

 

[sunroomguy]

I do not know how old the tank is and this has been happening from day 1. did not have an inspection. can the pressure be tested with water in the bladder? if yes, what should it read? if not and I have to drain the tank, what should it read? one other thing- I have owned homes with wells before, but never one with a submersible pump. when the pump turns on, the sound resonates thru the copper piping and is very noticeable at nite. it is plumped with old galvanize from the well, to the tank and main shut off. if I replumb with PVC will that reduce or at least reduce the resonation? thx

 

[sunroomguy]

Sounds to me like a bad gauge and a weak spot in the bladder of the tank. I've seen them act just like that expecially well xtrol 203

 

[sunroomguy]

when u say weak spot in the bladder , does that mean I should replace it? how does one determine the proper size for an nu expansion tank? not being familiar with a submersible pump, is a check valve used on the intake? would like to replumb with PVC, but I not sure about losing the prime. thx.

 

[Reach4]

I do not know how old the tank is and this has been happening from day 1. did not have an inspection. can the pressure be tested with water in the bladder? if yes, what should it read? if not and I have to drain the tank, what should it read? one other thing- I have owned homes with wells before, but never one with a submersible pump. when the pump turns on, the sound resonates thru the copper piping and is very noticeable at nite.

Is there a checkvalve or any other device between the well and the pressure tank? If there is a check valve, you might improve things by removing the above-ground check valve or its innards. There will be a check valve at the pump. Normally you don't want another. If in doubt, post a picture of the area of the line from your well to your pressure tank. Include the pressure switch, gauge in the picture.

when u say weak spot in the bladder , does that mean I should replace it? how does one determine the proper size for an nu expansion tank?

First, try adjusting the precharge. Normal for a submersible pump is to have the air precharge 2 PSI below the cut-on pressure. To measure or change the precharge pressure, turn off the pump and open a low faucet to drain the water pressure to zero. Then check the air pressure and adjust as needed. If water comes out when you check the pressure, replace the tank.

The pressure tank should have enough drawdown to take a minute or more for your pump to rise to the cutoff pressure.

would like to replumb with PVC, but I not sure about losing the prime. thx.

If you re-plumb from the well, polyethylene pipe is a more common choice. There is no priming needed for a submersible pump.

 

[JRC3]

one other thing- I have owned homes with wells before, but never one with a submersible pump. when the pump turns on, the sound resonates thru the copper piping and is very noticeable at nite. it is plumped with old galvanize from the well, to the tank and main shut off. if I replumb with PVC will that reduce or at least reduce the resonation? thx

My well pipe is black poly to the pressure tank. The well head is 10' from the house and runs another 15' inside the crawlapace til hits the pressure tank and straight to the filters. My point is, even with poly I hear a pretty good resonation/hum until it "clunks" off.

My well kicks on at 37 psi and the tank is set 2 psi below that. I'll go look to see what the pressure is when it's at 37 psi to kinda give you a ballpark number to quick check yours, though you probably need to correctly check and set it.

 

[JRC3]

can the pressure be tested with water in the bladder?

Without dumping the well pressure my bladder pressure and well pressure run pretty much dead even. At cut in the well dial said 37...tire gauge said 37. Also checked at 40 and when it cut out at 55. I have a 44G pressure tank, not sure if this applies to other sizes. Also not sure if this means anything in regards to the precharge.

Actually now that I think about it, you'd be better off measuring the tanks drawdown. Let the pump cut out and then measure the amount of water before it kicks in.

 

[Reach4]

Actually now that I think about it, you'd be better off measuring the tanks drawdown. Let the pump cut out and then measure the amount of water before it kicks in.

While that is good, it would be better in this case to first check the air precharge (while water pressure = 0).

 

[MI Well Drilling]

Maybe I read something wrong but if the water pressure on the gauge reads the same as the air at the top of the tank than there is no pressurized air above the bladder. Shut off the pump run the water and when the water stops check tank air. Leave the faucet on while putting air in. If air starts coming out of the tap the tank is bad.

 

[Reach4]

Maybe I read something wrong but if the water pressure on the gauge reads the same as the air at the top of the tank than there is no pressurized air above the bladder.

In normal operation, if the diaphragm (or bladder) were perfectly limp, the air pressure above and water pressure below diaphragm would be equal. The diaphragm will not be perfectly limp, but the two pressures be pretty darned close.