Well pump cycling and significant increase in water sediment

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Bill R.

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Hello, I'm hoping to get some guidance.

I have a well equipped with a 30/50 pressure switch and an Amtrol WX-203 pressure tank. Over the last month or so I noticed that the water pressure throughout the house pulsates when taking a shower or flushing a toilet.

I recently had a water company come in as I was seeing a lot of sediment left in the shower and toilets and thought my whole house carbon filter needed to have its carbon changed. They changed the carbon and said it was long over due, but also mentioned that my water pressure tank was water logged and would need to be replaced.

I purchased parts, like for like(i.e. pressure switch, tank, check valve, etc.) and plan on replacing the tank and switch this weekend.

My question is related to the sediment. The sediment is like a grey/black color and makes the water look a cloudy white when filling a glass. Is this a direct result of my tank/pressure switch failing? Once I replace tank/pressure switch should this go away or do I have a different problem in addition to the tank on my hands?

My wife is beside herself so I'm praying this fixes it or she is going to fix me. Any advice or help would be appreciated.

-Bill
 

Reach4

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I suspect the white is air coming out of the carbon. Let a cloudy glass of water sit out, and expect the cloud to rise with time. Sediment will fall.

The sediment could be from the pressure tank that you did not drain with the drain valve recently. To hold you over until you can get the pressure tank replaced, you may be able to add air to the pressure tank. If you do that, turn off the valve going to the rest of the house, open the drain valve for the pressure tank and then you add air. Probably want to connect a hose to carry the crud away, but you want to be sensitive.

Actually it is possible that the air precharge just needs increasing, and the pressure tank does not need replacing. If you can raise the air pressure to 2 psi below where your submersible pump cuts in, that could be the longer term solution. If you cannot maintain 28 psi, then view this as a temporary measure.
 

Bill R.

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Thanks Reach4, I will give that a try when I get home tonight. Saturday should be interesting...
 

Valveman

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A pump cycling on and off can stir up a well and make sediment. It is even worse when the tank is waterlogged. A WX203 only holds about 7 gallons of water, so the pump cycles for every 7 gallons used and stirs up the well. Some of that stuff could also be coming out of the bad tank. Fix or replace the tank, run the pump a while to clean up the sediment, and see how it works. If the cycling still stirs up sediment, you can add a Cycle Stop Valve. That makes the draw from the well steady and constant instead of surging up and down as it does when the pump cycles.
 

Bill R.

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Need advice. Well tank arrived with a 1" inlet. My main water line is 1" poly connection. I thought tank was going to have a 1 1/4 inlet and bought a 1 1/4 t and all parts to reduce to 1" . Check valve is also 1 1/4. I have a male reducer to the poly that goes from 1 1/4 to 1 inch. Is this going to be a problem? I'm hoping I dont have to now buy everything 1". Any help truly appreciated.

Bill
 

Reach4

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Not a problem. Normally pressure tanks that are 32 gallons or less come with 1 inch and bigger come with 1.25.

I hope you tried setting the precharge on the old tank before you gave up on it.
 

Bill R.

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Thanks for everyone's help. Tank was completely water logged and filled with sediment. Wouldn't hold a charge. Had to drill a dozen holes in tank and tilt it towards the sump to drain. What a PIA. All is good...
 

Midriller

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There should never be a check valve installed between a tank and well, ever. If yon have a screened well the pulsation can drive fines through the filter pack and past the screen. Best solution is to pick up pump and purge well over the top at open discharge, till the well clears. Or hook up a garden hose to tank and run for extended period of time to clear debris.
 

Reach4

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There should never be a check valve installed between a tank and well, ever.
While there are more than there should be, sometimes there is a good reason. The most obvious exception is with a drainback system. But there can be others.
 

Midriller

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Most states require by code that your service line between the well and house remains pressurized to eliminate possibilities of cross contamination with surface water. All check valves need to be encased or past the pressure switch/ transducer.
 

Valveman

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Most states require by code that your service line between the well and house remains pressurized to eliminate possibilities of cross contamination with surface water. All check valves need to be encased or past the pressure switch/ transducer.

I agree! However, state regulators and inspectors don't really understand. Like in Texas it says you cannot have negative pressure in the underground line, but also states there must be a check valve above ground. They can't have it both ways. The check valve above ground causes negative pressure in the underground line.

Some states require an above ground check, other states prohibit a check above ground. Like Midriller says, if you need a check above ground, make sure it is after the pressure tank.

Manufacturers also claim in deep wells a check valve is needed every 200'. This causes water hammer big time. A good check valve at the pump is the only check valve needed even in deep wells. If you want a second check valve cause it gives you a warm and fuzzy feeling, put it six inches above the one on the pump.
 
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