Well producing sediment and reddish water

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LennyS

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We are back in business. This well guy was exceptional and fixed me up good. He first sent a camera down the well. With the camera at 125 ft the water was cloudy and camera not useful. I asked him if we could run the well down and he said give it a try. The pump ran solid for 40 mins and we emptied the well. During that 40 mins, the water quality improved greatly and the camera revealed a stone along side the pump and rock sediment all the way up past the inlet of the pump. He tugged on the pump with his hoist wench, up and down but it was stuck. As he was thinking what to do, the pump just popped loose. We looked at each other thinking the poly broke but indeed the pump was loose. Poly was stretched and still pulling. Since he had the pump loose and water level low in borehole, he used the camera to inspect the borehole from top to bottom. We learned that the pump was originally set 7’ off the bottom which typically would have been fine but none the less my well dumped lots of rock sediment and filled up the bottom of the well.

The camera also revealed a large sized collapse at 115 ft and no water entering the well above it. At the 145 ft we had a gusher water supply shooting straight across the borehole, good water production. Pretty clean borehole the rest of the way. One small water supply at 128’, probably the .5 gpm the well driller stated. I think there was onother spot in the 170’s that was producing a small supply shooting out.

He did try to clear out the check valve by installing a ball valve onto a contraption his dad made many years ago which was a female end of a pitlesssadapter that connected onto the end of the poly (male end of the pitless) with a ball valve after that. He powered up the pump and worked that valve numerous time but no success. He was hoping that the sudden shock of the closing of the valve may dislodge the sediment. He stated that he has had very good success dislodging checkvalves this way. He than proceeded to pull up the pump and when we had 210 ft out of the hole he installed a new check valve and a 5 gpm flow control. He wanted this flow control to allow the pump to run longer but more gentle as to not stir or suck up junk. After that he lower the pump back to within 30’ of the bottom, cut off 25’ of poly and dropped it back onto the pitless adapter. He also threw 3 chlorine tablets in since we may have introduced bacteria into the water supply.

Next he fired up the pump and checked oporation and we held pressure just fine.

This guy commented that it may have been possible that the well driller could have felt this fracture during drilling and could have cemented it up and drilled it out the next day, possibly but not certain. He had nothing bad to say about the original well driller.

https://larsonwells.com/

Larson well drilling really impressed me and I am very happy at what he did and the price. $600 was exceptional. He got to my place at 8:30 after driving 1 hr to get here. Could not get up my 200 ft driveway which is on a hill. The snow matting was coming loose under his tires and he had no traction so he nevev even got to my well location till 10 am. He left at 1:30. He did indicate that more sediment can come loose. In fact, lowering the camera and pump down the well did send material to the bottom, maybe that was good?

My water is already exceptional and if the borehole doesn’t let loose some more I think I’m gonna have a nice well. Oh yea, he thought that since we tried to clean out the check valve while running the pump after we had it off the bottom, we probably cleaned out the pump inlet that had lots of sediment in it. I was concerned about the pump but he said it would likely be cleaned out fairly well will that much water running past the check valve when he was trying to clear it out. First thing I asked him when he arrived was if he wanted me out of the way and not try an help but he said no, I could use a hand and he wanted me to see the camera working. Very nice guy this Curt Larson is. Immaculate truck and equipment, very decisive and fast at what he does. I could not have asked for a better experience.

Also, thanks to all you guys here who helped to educate me on all this, so much appreciated. So many good people in this world who help each other.
 

Reach4

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Thanks for the update. Your pump is now about 300 ft?

Any discussion of a PVC liner or other protection against further cave-ins? Is that flow control (Dole valve) up top just before the pitless?
 
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LennyS

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Thanks for the update. Your pump is now about 300 ft?

Any discussion of a PVC liner or other protection against further cave-ins? Is that flow control (Dole valve) up top just before the pitless?
The well is 283 deep. Pump was initially set at 276 + or -. We took off 25’ so we are at 250 roughly. The flow control is attached to the new check valve which is 200-210 ft down. I cannot remember if it was before or after the check valve, I think before but cannot say for sure. Curt seemed to think that the flow control would lessen agitation to the well and perhaps reduce the hard fast raw down during heavy usage. He also told me that in my area we have lots of deep low yielding wells and that he typically uses this set up with good results. Today I didn’t ask him about the well screen but on the phone yesterday I did. He seemed to think it wouldn’t be necessary in the wells setup as of today. Let’s hope he’s right.
 

LennyS

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Do you guys think that this red water was pouring into my well or was the red developing as the pump was agrivating the sediment sitting in the bottom of the well? The area that caved in isn’t even producing water. As of now my water is not red, just cloudy. This is hard for me to wrap my mind around. I guess time will give me my answer hey?
 

LLigetfa

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The area that caved in isn’t even producing water.
Was the caved in area below the static water level? If so, when you drew down the water level, whatever water saturated the caved in area drained and could have motivated the material.
 

LennyS

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Was the caved in area below the static water level? If so, when you drew down the water level, whatever water saturated the caved in area drained and could have motivated the material.
Yes, the cave in is below static water level
 

LennyS

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Here was my water quality when it was tested a month ago.

PH -7.8
Iron .1 ppm
Calcium 1 grain
Total dissolved solids around 100 ppm. Didn't test for anything else, no need to said the water guy.
 
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LennyS

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Yesterday I attempted to send the camera down the well. After I got the well cap off I opened the program on the lap top for the camera. Laptop seemed slow so it took a few minutes. As I was sitting there waiting I heard stuff falling in my well, sediment coming loose. Again the water is red so I got an issue. This well is still crumbling. Is there a solution for this particular issue?
 

LennyS

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Well, the infamous Redwater started appearing a little bit ago and is definitely on the rise. How long can this fracture/cave in continue to erode? Cannot say for sure but this fracture is likely to be the reason for my poor water quality. Larson who was just out to raise my pump says they could pull the pump, drop a plug in the well below the fracture, dump a material down the to seal off the fracture and than drill it open again. What a pain in the old arse.
 

Valveman

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Probably the best way to fix it though. I am not sure slotted casing or screen and a fine gravel pack would stop the fine red clay from coming in. Cement off the clay zone, and drill it back out is probably the only way to keep it from sluffing off.
 

Reach4

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Probably the best way to fix it though. I am not sure slotted casing or screen and a fine gravel pack would stop the fine red clay from coming in. Cement off the clay zone, and drill it back out is probably the only way to keep it from sluffing off.
Interesting. Would this involve removing some more red clay to give the plugging material a place to hold into?
 

LennyS

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Plugging may be my only hope. Right now I have a 2 micron house filter and the red water easily makes it through. I suppose I’ll have to suffer through a few months of this to see if it will diminish on its own.
 

Valveman

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Interesting. Would this involve removing some more red clay to give the plugging material a place to hold into?

Several ways to skin that cat. But most likely they will pull the surface casing, and set a plug or packer below the bad area. They can fill a certain amount of the well with cement, or a cement/Bentonite mixture. Then drill out the cement and clean up the well. The cement is the new wall of the well and won't sluff off.
 

LennyS

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Several ways to skin that cat. But most likely they will pull the surface casing, and set a plug or packer below the bad area. They can fill a certain amount of the well with cement, or a cement/Bentonite mixture. Then drill out the cement and clean up the well. The cement is the new wall of the well and won't sluff off.
I like it! And since that bad section is not producing water to begin with, it seems like an appropriate repair
 

LLigetfa

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I am not sure slotted casing or screen and a fine gravel pack would stop the fine red clay from coming in.
My understanding is the water producing area is above the unstable area. I suggested solid casing in the lower (unstable) area and slotted casing only in the water producing area above it but if the driller prefers to plug and drill through the problem area instead, he probably has good reason.
 
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