Well Problems

[Mark Nash]

Good afternoon

The purpose of my post is to inquire about possible solutions for iron bacteria in my well. I’ve had a problem with What I believed to be iron bacteria in my welol for about 10+ years. I first thought it was sediment and I put a whole house filter in place to catch the sentiment, But I was still getting contaminant passing through.

I spoke to a representative at a plumbing supply house that is well-versed in Wells and they believed it was iron bacteria. They advised me to have the well tested, which I did and to Bleached the well to kill the iron bacteria.

The test results from the lab indicated that the water was in acceptable levels and that I had high iron. I bleached the with 2 1/2 gallons of bleach and allowed it to sit for roughly 24 hours and it cleared up for a week. So, I bleached it a second time and the problem still exist. The well is 150 feet deep in a 6” casing and I have about 100’ of water in the casing. My home is about 2000 sqft with 2 baths.

Some of the well companies that I’ve spoken to want to treat the water to clear up the iron bacteria by placing equipment in the house and some want to place a chlorinator on top of the well head. In my opinion, this is not correcting the problem it’s just treating it.

I am pretty knowledgeable about the well and I have pulled the pump several times to replace it over the years. We are the original owners and we’ve lived here 40 years ( The well is 40 years old). After doing some Research there is discussion out on the Internet about cleaning the well and I was wondering if this was a Viable option?

I have included a couple pictures and video of the filters and pump after I pulled it a few months ago. Any assistance you could provide would be truly appreciated.

 

[Reach4]

Chlorine can cause iron to turn from the soluble type (ferrous) to the stuff that can be mechanically filtered or settled out (ferric).

If the chlorinator chlorinates the well, the iron will settle to the bottom of the well. Iron can be handled various ways, and usually with a backwashing filter. If you chlorinate after the pressure tank the conversion can take place in a contact+settling tank, and you can blow down the sediment periodically. That can be followed with a backwashing carbon filter that can remove the residual chlorine and do some mechanical filtering.

Do you also have a "sulfur" smell (H2S)?

Cleaning the well can remove accumulated sediment including settled iron, but it will not deal with the new ferrous iron in the aquifer. I presume your neighbors have that same iron. You might discuss what has worked for them.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bannerman]

The test results from the lab indicated that the [COLOR=revert-layer] water[/COLOR] was in acceptable levels and that I had high iron.

What does 'acceptable levels' and 'high iron' actually mean?

Suggest posting the lab test report to define the actual numbers. The raw well water acid level will also have an influence on treatment methods including how much bleach and the amount of pH adjustment will be needed for the bleach to work effectively. As such, the lab report should also specify the pH level.

Does the water contain any arsenic? Arsenic is often present in well water, so arsenc removal is most commonly performed along with the removal of iron through the utilization of iron filtration media such as Kattalox Light, installed within a backwashing filtration system, similar in size and apearance as a water softener.

 

[Mark Nash]

Thank you both for your reply. Ultimately I am not trying to install equipment onto the system, but trying to kill the bacteria in the well. One of the other suggestions from the local plumbing/well contractor was to install a chlorinator ( which drops a pellet daily I guess)at the well head and remove the chlorine in the house with a carbon tank. I would still prefer scrubbing/ cleaning the well casing and retreating it with heavy bleach concentration. I have attached the water testing report.

Thank you for your insight

 

[Mark Nash]

Also, the water runs clear and does not smell. The filter in the was after the bleaching the well. A new filter will get dirty (like the one inside canister) in about 1 week

 

[Reach4]

If you get the filter dirty in a week, you need a bigger filter.

Is what the filter picks up mostly rust colored?

Ultimately I am not trying to install equipment onto the system, but trying to kill the bacteria in the well. One of the other suggestions from the local plumbing/well contractor was to install a chlorinator ( which drops a pellet daily I guess)at the well head and remove the chlorine in the house with a carbon tank. I would still prefer scrubbing/ cleaning the well casing and retreating it with heavy bleach concentration.

For cleaning accumulated sediment, you may find these of interest.

A backwashing carbon filter will also pick up small particles of iron produced by the effect of the chlorine, that have not fallen to the bottom.

A backwashing carbon filter is equipment. A 4.5x20 inch carbon filter will have more limited life. I don't predict how long.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my well sanitizing write-up. If the problem was bacteria, that sanitizing should last significantly longer than dumping bleach down the well.

 

[Mark Nash]

If you get the filter dirty in a week, you need a bigger filter.

Is what the filter picks up mostly rust colored?


For cleaning accumulated sediment, you may find these of interest.

A backwashing carbon filter will also pick up small particles of iron produced by the effect of the chlorine, that have not fallen to the bottom.

A backwashing carbon filter is equipment. A 4.5x20 inch carbon filter will have more limited life. I don't predict how long.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my well sanitizing write-up. If the problem was bacteria, that sanitizing should last significantly longer than dumping bleach down the well.

 

[Bannerman]

Wells are often much deeper than the depth where the water is being drawn from. As the water at the well bottom will be usually extremely cold and may not actually move, dropping pellets into a well will often be ineffective as the pellets will typically settle to the well bottom and will not dissolve.

the [COLOR=revert-layer] water[/COLOR] runs clear and does not smell. The filter in the was after the bleaching the well.

The actual name for iron bacteria is Iron Reducing Bacteria, signifying the bacteria survives by consuming ferrous iron that is present in the well water. Ferrous iron is also called 'Clear Water Iron' as it is fully dissolved in the water so as to remain invisible and usually without odor. Chlorine acts as an oxidant, thereby converting ferrous iron to a ferric state, resulting in rust particles and usually an iron odor.

not trying to install equipment onto the system, but trying to kill the bacteria in the well.

Water that enters your well is from the surrounding aquifer. Shocking a well with chlorine may seem to reduce/eliminate a bacteria problem, but if the water that subsequantly enters continues to contain bacteria, then shocking the well is likely to provide only a temporary remedy.

In addition, because oxidizing ferrous chlorine to a ferric state will result in solid particle residue (rust), then oxidizing with chlorine within the well could lead to an ongoing rusty water problem which is likely to result in filtration equipment needing to be added.

While you may not wish to add treatment equipment, to treat your issue appropriately, may require additional equipment.

Thanks for posting the lab report. Are you able to increase the image resolution and then repost? Even with attempting to view a saved copy, the resolution was too low, resulting in the text becoming pixalated and unreadable when zoomed in to increase the size of the text. If the higher resolution file size becomes too excessive to include within a post, suggest saving the image to an online image portal, then post the link to the image within your post.

 

[Mark Nash]

Yes sir have seen this video. Yes it is rust colored. I posted a couple of pictures of the filter if you had a chance to see them. I have a video of when I pulled the pump about 6 months ago to cut the poly line to make sure the pump was off the bottom of the well. The well is 150‘ deep and the black poly pipe is about 125’. I tried to attach the video but the site must not allow. Im going to add a couple screen shots of the poly pipe. The concentration of red contaminant is thicker at the top of the pipe and less near the pump. This well was never this color in the early years

 

[Mark Nash]

Picture of the house filter and when I pulled the pump

 

[Mark Nash]

Screen shots of water rest. Thank you both again for taking the time

 

[Bannerman]

Appears to me as an accumulation of ferric iron (rust) that is being removed by the sediment filter cartridge.

As the expossure of ferrous iron with oxygen will also cause oxidation of ferrous iron into a ferric state, the water near the top of the well which has increased exposure with air, resulting in some ferrous iron becoming at least partially oxidized, leading to an accumulation of ferric iron on the drop pipe toward the top of the well.

Suggest eliminating the 'safety rope' from within the well casing. While it may seem to be a great idea, a rope, cable or other 'safety device' that eventually fails or otherwise becomes dropped into the well casing, will often become bunched-up around the pump, which will often prevent the pump from being able to be pulled-out.

The poly drop pipe is sufficient to hang the pump from and for pulling the pump with, particular when long brass or stainless barbed fittings are utilized to permit installation of 2-stainless gear clamps at each connection. Wraping each gear clamp with electrical tape will protect them from corrosion since the gear spindle often consist of other metals which are not stainless steel.

 

[Reach4]

When doing my well sanitizing... been a few years, so probably time, I run the recirculation water through a 4.5x20 cartridge filter to take out what I can. I put garden hose thread adapters on it.

A 4.5X 20 filter cartridge has I think about 4 to 8x the capacity of a 2.5x10.

Previously I had used an old cartridge that had been in service, but expect to use a washable pleated filter next time.

I do have a backwashing H2S+iron filter.

I just had a look at your water test. Your iron is fairly low.

What is your main water symptom -- the sediment filter clogs quickly? Staining, taste?

 

[Mark Nash]

Good Morning,
They main issue with the well is the sediment…rust colored accumulating in toilet on tubs and tile etc. The water taste fine and looks fine when it is filter thru the whole house filter. Again, it takes about a week for the toilets to start showing the sediment and sometime we see it in the wash. I have concerns that overtime that it could ultimately be a building up in the plumbing.

i’ve seen videos where they pressurize the well with air and water and bubble the junk from inside the well out of the well head ( like you posted earlier), but I can’t seem to find anyone that does “well cleaning” here around the Washington DC area. Whatever Well Cleaning means or includes. I have also seen some items out there (Brush) for scrubbing the well casing. I thought this may be an option as well, but who knows. My logic is that, I thought when I pulled the well and the most concentrated rust was at the top of the poly pipe, I thought that if I scrub the well casing down pretty far and then bleached it again, it may correct the problem.

Truthfully, i’m not really sure what to do with it. That’s why I’m on this site looking for ideas and opinions. I appreciate both of you trying to give me some insight on what it may be and how to repair it. It’s really not about trying to save a buck, I just don’t want to spend a bunch of money and throw in a bunch of equipment with hopes that it will work. I feel like the true problem is in the well, and if I could figure out a way to correct it in the well then it would fix everything else.

Thank you

 

[Reach4]

You have a 150 ft 6 inch PVC casing all of the way. If you don't find somebody who does well cleaning, consider doing it yourself. I have not done it, but I think this is what you would do:

Rent an engine-driven compressor, maybe 275 CFM at 40 PSI. Run a 1 inch pipe to the bottom, and blow. Expect a geyser.

You could try a lesser compressor to charge a big honking tank to 90 psi, and quickly open a ball valve.

Another way to lift sediment with a much lesser compressor is an air lift pump. Since you have 100 ft of water in 150 ft, that can work. Air lift pumps are often homemade. The action will take a lot more time. Expect the air pressure to be about 40 to 50 PSI, but it may well be less-- maybe as low as 25..

https://wholesaletoolwarehouse.com/tools/cfm-calc/ will relate CFM and SCFM. In your search and study, look statements about how powerful your compressor will need to be to lift water plus solids out. It is a lot smaller than the big one that makes the geyser.

So your search term is "air lift pump". I have not used or seen an air lift pump myself.

A backwashing filter can deal with sediment production on a long term basis. Clack Filter AG is one of the filtering media. However other media can deal with mechanical filtering and iron removal at the same time. Katalox light is such a medium.

I am not trying to install equipment onto the system, but trying to kill the bacteria in the well.

Filtering is equipment.

Well cleaning to remove 40 years of sediment sounds like it could be a very good move. Whether your sediment is rust or some combination, cleaning goes after that.

I doubt that bacteria causes your sediment problem; it could contribute.

Another thing to consider is to move your pump from 20 ft off of the bottom to 30 ft off of the bottom or from 15 ft off of the bottom to 25 ft off of the bottom. This presumes that the well refill rate can keep up with demand to keep the water higher than the pump intake. Also, a flow inducer can prevent the pump from sucking sediment that is coming down from above.

So recap: Remove sediment, filter sediment, or raise the pump above the sediment.

 

[SuperGreg]

When I did research on this topic I could not find anything that definitively suggested a way to permanently fix the iron bacteria problem, so when I rebuild our filter system I put chlorine injection as the first step and have been running it for 10 years. After chlorine is a contact tank, Pro-Ox filter, and carbon filter. This takes care of any gross red buildup that used to be inside all the pipes and every water fixture.

The downside, of course, is the added complexity and need to refill the chlorine solution regularly.

 

[Mark Nash]

Thank you all for your input!!!