Well-point appears plugged

Users who are viewing this thread

jesapacker

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
I have a 42 foot deep well that was drilled about 35 years ago. It is at a lake cottage about 100 ft. from the lake and water table is only 2 ft. below surface. About 2-3 years ago the water developed a "swampy" odor and the (above ground) pump started taking longer and longer to refill the (new) bladder tank. I had a well driller check the pump system, who said it was fine, and that I would be needing to drill a new well soon. A friend of mine, now deceased, at one time used some sort of pellets to very successfully rejuvenate his cottage well. Is this an option for me?
Thanks,
Jim in northern Michigan
 

Bob NH

In the Trades
Messages
3,310
Reaction score
9
Points
0
Location
New Hampshire
If the water table is 2 ft below the surface, why do you need a new well? The driller should tell you that.

If it is a drilled well, what is the casing diameter and where is the screen?

It might be getting a swampy odor if surface water is getting into the well from a failed seal or a failed suction pipe. A leaking suction pipe could also be letting air into the line which would explain why the pump takes longer to fill the tank.

I would:
1. Look into the well to see where the water level is, find out what size casing, and learn what the suction pipe is.

2. If there is some kind of well screen, determine if it can be replaced.

3. Determine what kind of suction pipe you have, and its condition. If the suction pipe is steel it is probably filled with crud (rust and carbonates) and may not have a big enough bore to support the pump.
 

jesapacker

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Thanks, Bab. I don't remember for sure but If my memory serves me right, I remember a cast iron cap on the well when whe looked at it about 10 years ago. Could that mean that it is a cast iron casing? I think it was 4", but the line coming in to the pump is 2",
 

Bob NH

In the Trades
Messages
3,310
Reaction score
9
Points
0
Location
New Hampshire
It is unlikely that it is a cast iron casing.

You may have a well seal or a well cap. See pictures at the link.

You might also have a "Pitless adapter". (second link)

If it is a well seal it fits the ID of the casing and has a hole for the pipe that carries the water. It usually has a rubber gasket that seals to the casing and to the pipe.

http://www.do-it-yourself-pumps.com/pitless-well-caps.htm

http://www.do-it-yourself-pumps.com/pitless-adapter-underground-discharge.htm

You may be able to look at one at HD or on line.

The well seal is dropped into the top of the casing and a few cap screws are tightened to cause the gasket to be clamped with a second metal part that you can't see inside the casing.

The well seal is removed by LOOSENING the cap screws (do not remove them completely) which allows the seal assembly to be lifted up and to slide on the inner pipe. If all of the screws are removed then the inner metal plate will drop into the well. Sometimes it is a split plate

With an old seal it may be necessary to do some prying and hammering to get it free.

The down pipe can then usually be raised up out of the well.
 

Speedbump

Active Member
Messages
4,511
Reaction score
12
Points
38
Location
Riverview, Fl.
Since the 60's in Michigan a Pitless Adaptor must be installed on all new wells. You probably fall into that category. If in fact you think the pipe is 4" it may really be three inch which a lot of 2" well Pitless Adapters used. The cap on a Baker Monitor (very popular) Pitless used a Cast Iron Cap. The well will have a screen at the bottom which can be pulled if you can find anyone who will attempt it. Most drillers have gone to 4" and larger.

If the incoming pipe is truly two inch, it is concentric pipe which supposedly rules out a suction leak.

bob...
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks