Well Not Filling Galvanized Pressure Tank

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by Adam Clay, Jul 29, 2020.

  1. Adam Clay

    Adam Clay New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2020
    Location:
    Missouri
    I'm having an issue with not getting water into my pressure tank. We gave our dogs a bath one evening, and woke up to no water. I noticed my pressure switch looked a little burnt around the contacts, so I replaced it. I replaced my control box, and checked all my voltage to see if I was getting the proper amount. Everything checks out. This was my grandparents set up, and is old. However, the well is fairly new. I thought maybe my pressure tank was waterlogged, so I drained it. Now I can't get it to fill back up. I have a submersible pump and my well is about 500ft deep. I read that my check valve might be stuck and the water could be flowing back down. Any ideas?

    If I'm getting proper voltage to the control box and pump switch when I switch the pump switch on does that mean my well pump is good?
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    IL
    What is the pressure at the pressure gauge when this condition occurs?

    What is the setting of your pressure switch -- 30/50, or what?

    What is the air precharge PSI in you pressure tank? Air precharge is always set and measured with the water pressure zero.

    Are you up to measuring voltages at the pressure switch? How about measuring the current to on one of the hot wires with a clamp-around ammeter?

    I suspect that you have a control box. That might have failed. A weak capacitor in a control box can sometimes result in intermittent pumping.
     
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  4. Adam Clay

    Adam Clay New Member

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    The pressure at the pressure gauge is at zero (this is the one by the pressure switch). There isn't a pressure gauge on the galvanized tank, which I thought was odd. It doesn't have a bladder, and I read that if your tank becomes waterlogged you can drain it, re-fill it, and it would work again, but now I can't hear water coming back into the tank. My grandfather in-law told us we needed to periodically drain the pressure tank because of it becoming waterlogged. (New pressure tank coming in the future)

    My pressure switch is a 40/60. I've measured voltage at the pressure switch, and control box. I'm getting 240 at both locations when I turn the pressure switch on. I'm getting 240 coming into my pressure switch as well. I replaced my control box with one from my in-law that I know works.

    I haven't measured the current on one of the hot wires though. What would that tell me?

    If I'm getting voltage when I turn on the pressure switch; does that mean my pump is working?
     
  5. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    I missed that, and you had been very clear.

    How about a photo of the top-side check valve, and the piping to the tank.
     
  6. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    You need to check the amperage. With 230V to the motor, it is either drawing zero amps because the wire or motor is bad, or it is drawing full load amps because you have a break or hole in the pipe.
     
  7. Adam Clay

    Adam Clay New Member

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    It doesn't seem as though I have a top-side check valve. But here are some images of what the set up looks like. I have two different water lines coming from this pressure tank. The pvc pipe line is the one I use. The other line stay off, because of a leak some where.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Adam Clay

    Adam Clay New Member

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    How and where do I check that at? Do I check it on the wires at the top of the well casing? Or do I check it coming into the control box? Do I have to have a special multimeter to check it?
     
  9. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    If you cannot get the tank to refill with water, get a garden hose thread pressure gauge, and put it on that faucet near the floor. They are cheap and widely available at farm stores, hardware stores, and other places that sell well supplies.


    The following is if you cannot get the tank to refill with air.
    ===============================
    Pump off. Run that faucet near the floor to a floor drain etc, using a garden hose. If that is the bottom of a pit, maybe it will drain water, or use a utilty pump to move the water out somehow. Open that big valve, with the red handle, slowly to admit air. Drain all of the water out.

    Close valves. Turn on pump.

    You could figure a way to pressurized to a higher pressure with an air compressor if you want more capacity. Once you have some air in the tank, you can add air periodically, and not have to remove water at all.

    Air dissolves in water, and that is why it must be replenished. Usually with a galvanized tank a method is used to add a little air each time the pump starts, and then excess air is released with an AVC (air volume control) valve.

    The advantage of a precharged tank is that it has the air contained behind a diaphragm, so the air cannot dissolve away into the water.

    =========================================

    I don't see your pressure switch. That should normally be very close to the pressure tank.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2020
  10. Adam Clay

    Adam Clay New Member

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    I did that yesterday, and now I can't get it to fill back up. I don't hear water running into the tank when the pump is switched on.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2020
  11. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Do you have water for the house? I presume no, but I thought it would not hurt to ask.

    Get a pressure gauge.

    Show us a photo of your pressure switch with the cover off, and the surrounding stuff.

    You can still do some troubleshooting with the multimeter you already have.
    This diagram represents what is under the cover of a common Pumptrol pressure switch. If wired this way, the voltage from terminal 1 to 4 would be about 240 VAC at all times. The voltage from terminal 2 to 3 would be zero if the pressure switch is off and 240 VAC if the pressure has dropped and the pump should be on. If, with the help of a friend found 240 from terminal 1 to 4 and much less from terminal 2 to 3 while the water pressure is zero, a new pressure switch is a cheap and easy fix. The problem is liable to be more than that.

    [​IMG]

    What voltage do you have from screw 1 to 4? From 2 to 3? When you get your clamp-around meter, you will clamp around one of the wires hooked to one of the 4 screws.


    Something like this might be a good choice for a multimeter with a clamp-around ammeter function: https://www.homedepot.com/collectio...usive-Clamp-Meter-Collection/Family-314132529
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2020
  12. Adam Clay

    Adam Clay New Member

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    My pressure switch is in the house. The pressure tank is out side in the old well house (new well drilled about 6 foot from pressure tank).

    1 to 4 I get 240 and 2 to 3 I get 240 when I turn the switch on.

    I'll need to go buy a multimeter with a clamp-around ammeter.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    That is a low pressure cut off type pressure switch. Have you been holding the little lever up to start the pump?
     
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  14. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    You also have manual overloads underneath that control box on the wall. Push those two red buttons under there and the pump will probably come back on.
     
  15. Adam Clay

    Adam Clay New Member

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  16. Adam Clay

    Adam Clay New Member

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    Thank you! I had my well guy come out to see if I was checking things right. It seems I'm not getting continuity to my black wire. We put some bleach tabs in, in hopes it's just a clog. May have to end up pulling the pump.
     
  17. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    Occupation:
    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Then you should at least be hearing that control box click when you turn the power on? If not I would push those red buttons and they are hard to push.
     
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