Well low pressure.

[JohnCT]

My sister in law called me last night because she had no water when she got home fro work. I took a run over and her pressure was at zero, but I could hear the pump running and feel the vibrations in the poly inlet pipe from the pump.

I had her snap the breaker off, then back on. The well tank immediately began filling and reached 35lbs, but no more. The pump continued to run but it was much more quiet and less vibration than before the breaker was cycled. I had her turn off the breaker and turn on a sink upstairs.

When the water finally ran out, I had her throw the breaker on again and once again the pressure rose to 35lbs fairly quickly, but no more. The pump was running continually.

So I had her shut the breaker off so the pump wouldn't continue to run through the night, but now I'm wondering how long it would take for the tank to fill. Did I not wait long enough?

The only things I can confirm is that there is 240V at the pressure switch and no voltage drop across any of the contacts.

Thanks for any insight.

John

 

[Valveman]

I am assuming this is an above ground type pump? If so it probably lost prime, got hot, and caused an air leak in the suction line. Most of the time the air leak is right where plastic pipe screws into the pump.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I had presumed submersible. I was thinking time to call the well service. Failing pump, hole in pipe, failing controller... pick two maybe.

But I should't have. The sister may be from much farther south.

 

[JohnCT]

I am assuming this is an above ground type pump? If so it probably lost prime, got hot, and caused an air leak in the suction line. Most of the time the air leak is right where plastic pipe screws into the pump.

No - should have been more specific. It's a submersible pump but I don't know how far down it is. My own pump is close to 400 feet..

Considering that the water pressure was at zero, could there be a leak at the pitless adapter, or could the water not drain backwards? Thanks for the reply.

John

 

[Reach4]

If trying hard to avoid calling the well service, and you want to troubleshoot remotely, what model is the control box? Is there a second box also?

How about the well ran shy of water, and that was the reason for the 35 psi max. Then for the shutoff until the power was cycled, maybe there is a well protector that detected the drop in amps and shut the pump down for a period. The power cycling would probably reset that.

Considering that the water pressure was at zero, could there be a leak at the pitless adapter

That could explain reduced pressure.

1. What is the normal pressure?
2. Is there a heck valve at the pressure tank?
3. If there is no check valve at the pressure tank, and if the pressure is 35, and you stop the water use at the house, and shut off the pump, what happens to the water pressure?

 

[JohnCT]

If trying hard to avoid calling the well service..

She just texted me; she has a well company going out at 3pm. I'll post back what they found. Thanks for the time guys.

John

Edit: I kind of dismissed the probability of the well running dry as she had no problem ever with water and she had water in the morning when she went to work. When she came home, she had no water. I know people with weak wells and they will recover eventually, even if a half gallon a minute or less. She had zero water after being gone all day.

And why zero on the meter? It's like there's a leak somewhere. Anyway, when I know you'll know!

Second edit: I noticed she had a recent treatment system installed. If she had zero pressure, would the well need to fill the pressure tank AND the two fiberglass treatment tanks before finally building enough pressure in the pressure tank to satisfy the pressure switch and shut the pump down?

 

[Reach4]

Second edit: I noticed she had a recent treatment system installed. If she had zero pressure, would the well need to fill the pressure tank AND the two fiberglass treatment tanks before finally building enough pressure in the pressure tank to satisfy the pressure switch and shut the pump down?

It would be interesting to see a photo that includes the pressure switch, the input to the pressure tank, and the pipe coming in from the well. I am wondering if that new install did something strange.

 

[JohnCT]

Update: I had my sister in law throw the breaker back on when she got home from work and keep an eye on the gauge. After 10 minutes, it got to 65lbs. Maybe it needed extra time to fill the pressure tank and the two water treatment tanks?

The well tech showed up and could find nothing wrong, but suggested a leaky toilet could have caused her problem. He said the well level was good, so I'm not sure how a slow leaky toilet could have drained the well.

Another question: is the pump motor wired with 240 in a single phase? I had cleaned the pressure switch contacts first but there were four contacts wired in twos, so I think the pump can't run on one phase 120V, correct?

I have a feeling her problems will return...

John

 

[Reach4]

Update: I had my sister in law throw the breaker back on when she got home from work and keep an eye on the gauge. After 10 minutes, it got to 65lbs. Maybe it needed extra time to fill the pressure tank and the two water treatment tanks?

I would reduce the pressure switch settings to 40/60 or lower. I would adjust the air precharge accordingly. 3.5 turns CCW on the nut on the big spring is usually about 10 psi reduction on both the cut-in and cut-out.

Another question: is the pump motor wired with 240 in a single phase? I had cleaned the pressure switch contacts first but there were four contacts wired in twos, so I think the pump can't run on one phase 120V, correct?

Some pumps pump some at 120v, but that would be unlikely to be the situation. One leg of power opening up would stop the current.