Well head pressure relief valve

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Pulaski

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The brass pressure relief valve, marked 75psi, on a system with a 40-60 pressure switch, started leaking, slowly.

I turned off the pump, depressurized the system (drained the pressure tank), replaced the pressure relief valve, and immediately it started to leak again - and I hadn't even turned the well pump on. There was no way there was 75+psi in the system - the faucet had only the slightest trickle of water, so the pressure was close to zero.

Any thoughts?
 

Valveman

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The seat on the old valve may have been worn out, or the valve froze. The new one is probably just not set high enough. Nearly all PRV's are adjustable. Just unscrew the top cap and tighten the spring until it works at 75 like you want.
 

Pulaski

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The seat on the old valve may have been worn out, or the valve froze. The new one is probably just not set high enough. Nearly all PRV's are adjustable. Just unscrew the top cap and tighten the spring until it works at 75 like you want.
As the system is operating in the 40-60psi range, how do I know when it is adjusted to 75psi? Do I just tighten it until it stops leaking?

A bit of background info, this is one of four wells I own, and is the newest, none of the older ones have exhibited this problem despite being 4-12 years older.
 

Boycedrilling

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You can buy pressure relief valves in both a preset fixed pressure and as adjustable. For the 1/2" ones I use for most domestic systems I buy the fixed preset ones. They're cheaper! I think that they're preset to 75 psi. I'll look when I get to the shop.

They larger ones like 1", 1 1/2" and 2" that I use on community systems are usual,y only adjustable. And yes, I will temporarily overpressure the pump house piping to set and test them.
 

Reach4

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If you can suck or blow air through it with your mouth, I would not bother installing it.

If you are daring, you could run the pump for overpressuring by pushing the white plastic thing in the pressure switch toward the contacts.
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Valveman

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Even the preset ones we get can be adjusted by removing the cap. But it leaks when the cap is removed. I usually just tighten the adjustment a long way in. Then start the pump and let it shut off at 60, which should be the highest pressure. Unscrew the PRV adjustment until it starts to leak, and tighten it back a 1/2 turn or so.
 

Pulaski

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Even the preset ones we get can be adjusted by removing the cap. But it leaks when the cap is removed. I usually just tighten the adjustment a long way in. Then start the pump and let it shut off at 60, which should be the highest pressure. Unscrew the PRV adjustment until it starts to leak, and tighten it back a 1/2 turn or so.
OK thx, I'll try that.
 

Dawna

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Anyone know what I can use to take off the cap of the standard 75psi pressure relief valve to adjust it? I put the releif valve before the drain so it's not letting me empty the waterlogged tank to change it.
 

Reach4

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everbilt-pump-valves-ebrv50nl-64_145.jpg
I would use a curved-jaw locking pliers on the knurled part.
 

Dawna

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everbilt-pump-valves-ebrv50nl-64_145.jpg
I would use a curved-jaw locking pliers on the knurled part.

I have been searching, I dont have vice grips. Is the pressure relief valve stopping the tank from draining? (I was sold a hydropneumatic water tank so I need to drain it so I can install a snifter valve to charge the tank) I have shut down power and release all pressure by draining the lines. But the water wont empty from the tank so I can work on it.
 

Dawna

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This is the set up
 

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Reach4

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I have been searching, I dont have vice grips. Is the pressure relief valve stopping the tank from draining? (I was sold a hydropneumatic water tank so I need to drain it so I can install a snifter valve to charge the tank) I have shut down power and release all pressure by draining the lines. But the water wont empty from the tank so I can work on it.
A system that uses a hydropneumatic tank should have something that continually adds air. Then a special valve on the tank releases the excess.

If you are going to add air yourself with a you will have a frequent chore. Air dissolves in water, so it must be replenished.

To get some air space opened in the tank may be hard. How about a photo of the input to the hydropneumatic water tank, the pipe from the well pump, the pressure switch, and pressure gauge. Also show any gadgets on the side or top of the tank.

I would look for a way to shove a flex tube up there to let air get admitted, as a one-time thing.
 

Dawna

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A system that uses a hydropneumatic tank should have something that continually adds air. Then a special valve on the tank releases the excess.

If you are going to add air yourself with a you will have a frequent chore. Air dissolves in water, so it must be replenished.

To get some air space opened in the tank may be hard. How about a photo of the input to the hydropneumatic water tank, the pipe from the well pump, the pressure switch, and pressure gauge. Also show any gadgets on the side or top of the tank.

I would look for a way to shove a flex tube up there to let air get admitted, as a one-time thing.

Yeah I was sold the wrong tank 2.5 yrs ago. It was holding steady pressure while running until a few weeks ago. Its a 61gal. theres nothing on the tank except the pic above. I was going to install use a snifter to fill it up for now. The pump man was saying it could be a once a year thing. Because I originally set it up backwards it doesn't seem to be draining. Either way I need to get this bad boy drained. And thank you so much for replying btw.
 

Reach4

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Ahh.. yes.

That is an unusual use for a tank tee. Usually the union port goes to the pressure tank. If you can unscrew that gray plastic on the black hose, you could shove a piece of tubing in the straight shot to the tank. Water will then start coming out onto the floor, with the tubing providing glug glug air. Once you get an air pocket, you could put the gray connector back into place.

The open port could accept a tee for a pressure release and a sifter valve both. The insert air into the snifter. Use some water. Add some air. But you have to have an air pocket to compress, to let you get the first bit of additional air into the tank with the snifter valve.
 
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