WC Venting Question

Users who are viewing this thread

NOLAcorn

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New Orleans, LA
Question about proper venting here.

I live in Southeast Louisiana in a raised one-story house (3 ft crawlspace) that's about 110 yrs old. As you'd expect the plumbing is a bit 'interesting'. When we bought it, the house already had Sched 40 PVC for wastewater everywhere except for this bathroom and the main stack, which was cast iron. We knew there was a crack in the CI about an inch above the Tee for the toilet, so eventually it was going to have to go. I always wondered why the toilet was a full 2 ft from the wall on its right and almost touching the vanity to its left. When I ripped up the old floors I found it was probably because a large girder (which they notched anyway, but that's a separate project) was blocking it from being any further from the vanity and closer to the wall. I was planning to leave the sink plumbing as it was and just replace it with PVC. However, I want to move the toilet to the other side of the girder, but I see no way of doing that with a Tee off the main stack the way it was originally plumbed. I had an idea for an alternate plumbing route for the toilet, where the run from the closet elbow to the 90 deg turn is ~5 ft and another 1 ft from the turn to tie it into the rest of the house. I wasn't sure if:
A) would this be allowed according to code? and
B) is there a better way to vent the toilet?

I was able to create some diagrams in sketchup.

Old plumbing diagram
N7SpVxF

Plumbing Old 1.jpg
https://ibb.co/N7SpVxF

Proposed plumbing diagram
Plumbing New 1.jpg

m5BY9MK

Plumbing New 2.jpg
https://ibb.co/m5BY9MK
7krdYzX

https://ibb.co/7krdYzX

w/ girder
Plumbing New 3 (girder).jpg

Plumbing New 4 (girder).jpg
p1VjNTJ

https://ibb.co/p1VjNTJ
DVttVjc

https://ibb.co/DVttVjc

I appreciate any feedback and suggested improvements.
 
Last edited:

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
It looks like your proposed plumbing ins going backwards at times.
Any fitting for waste on the horizontal should by a wye fitting, pointing the waste downstream.
 

NOLAcorn

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New Orleans, LA
Thanks for the feedback. I assume you're referring to the 3x3x3 Tee where the toilet line joins the one that comes from the rest of the house. Could what you're talking about be accomplished with a long turn Wye like this?
e65e5497-23c2-4cd1-a79a-215e04d3ea1d_1.bb0a235a3d5699c8a15f7e39ac192b54.jpeg
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
6,567
Reaction score
1,847
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
If it's a dropped girder (below the floor joists), can't you route the toilet drain over the girder between the floor joists?

Cheers, Wayne
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,892
Reaction score
4,435
Points
113
Location
IL
I presume the white pipe coming in has vented waste. If you can join that in below the new toilet connection, you can wet vent the toilet (no separate toilet vent needed). If it is a tub or shower that has not been vented yet, that changes things.


I don't get the big picture, since I did not look at all of your pictures. A rear-exit toilet could be useful potentially, to get the toilet waste to bypass the girder. But that is not necessary. There are probably other things that could work.
 

Attachments

  • img_5.png
    img_5.png
    21.4 KB · Views: 132

NOLAcorn

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New Orleans, LA
@wwhitney I could go over the girder but then I'd have to drop down and turn like stair steps and wasn't sure if that would be allowed, because the vent stack is sandwiched between two joists that I would have to go under.

@Reach4 I was trying to avoid tying into the cast iron pipe because it's buried underground and code here says you can't bury those flexible couplings, so I think I'd have to replace a lot more pipe.
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
6,567
Reaction score
1,847
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
@wwhitney I could go over the girder but then I'd have to drop down and turn like stair steps and wasn't sure if that would be allowed, because the vent stack is sandwiched between two joists that I would have to go under.
For a normal trap arm, you have to keep it horizontal until you vent it. But a toilet siphons on purpose and refills its own trap. So the toilet fixture drain can go vertical before being vented.

So you could go: closet flange, vertical pipe, closet elbow with outlet parallel to joists and just above girder, pipe over girder, long turn 90 rotated down 45 degrees from flat to get under the joists, (probably street) 45 to get back horizontal, pipe segment, sanitary tee in 4" stack. [Possibly the two instances of the number 45 could instead be 22.5, but that might not fit in the joist bay.]

Cheers, Wayne
 

NOLAcorn

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New Orleans, LA
For a normal trap arm, you have to keep it horizontal until you vent it. But a toilet siphons on purpose and refills its own trap. So the toilet fixture drain can go vertical before being vented.

So you could go: closet flange, vertical pipe, closet elbow with outlet parallel to joists and just above girder, pipe over girder, long turn 90 rotated down 45 degrees from flat to get under the joists, (probably street) 45 to get back horizontal, pipe segment, sanitary tee in 4" stack. [Possibly the two instances of the number 45 could instead be 22.5, but that might not fit in the joist bay.]

Cheers, Wayne

Here's a pic with what you proposed with joists in and the plastic sheeting where the ground is. I certainly like your idea better, way easier, I just thought you couldn't go vertical and stair step like that bc of the whole 1/2" per foot slope rule.
Plumbing New 7 (joists).jpg
Sorry realized you said 45 to 45 to get to the Tee and not a single 90
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
6,567
Reaction score
1,847
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
As I mentioned, a toilet is different from everything else because the vent isn't to protect the trap seal on a toilet. So it is allowed. You can find some threads on here discussing it, or perhaps someone else will chime in to agree.

Also, you've shown it with a 90 before the san-tee, but you could use a 45 or possibly a 22.5, by rotating the upper 90. Less stair-steppy.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,892
Reaction score
4,435
Points
113
Location
IL
@Reach4 I was trying to avoid tying into the cast iron pipe because it's buried underground and code here says you can't bury those flexible couplings, so I think I'd have to replace a lot more pipe.

I am not saying you want or need to dig, but most places underground is pretty much the only place the unshielded flex couplings would be allowed. But even so, you can use shielded couplings underground anywhere AFAIK.

Regarding slope, minimum drop for 3 inch is 1/8 inch per foot with IPC. LA code is based on an earlier IPC version. In UPC it is 1/4 inch per foot. No max for a toilet as wwhitney pointed out. No max for anything else after it's vented.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks