Water tank bad after 3 years

[BIGBREW]

Oh my water drama continues. Never thought I would say that. So I got my air injection head fixed finally. Different piston depending on how you are going to use it (softener/AIO). Last week my 3yo AO Smith commercial 50 gal direct vent hot water tank started leaking. Lucky for me it was still under warranty.

I cut the anode out of the old tank. I'm sure that helped with it rotting out. I'm having smell on the hot side. If I cut the rod out in sure I'll risk destroying this one in 3 years. Is there an alternative? Or do I just cut it out and plan on replacing this tank with an on demand in 3 years?

 

[Reach4]

You are talking about a water heater.

A powered anode will provide the protection that a similar length magnesium anode would provide, but not contribute to H2S generation. I prefer the Ceranode powered anode because you get the length, despite it costing more.

Cheaper, but not as effective, is to use an aluminum anode rod. Still it protects the tank some, and it does not support the SRB as much as magnesium.

Sanitizing your well and plumbing and WH can provide time without the SRB-generated H2S. How much time? Not sure. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing writeup.

Increasing the temperature of the WH can reduce the activity of the SRB. But there is danger of scalding. SRB are sulfate reducing bacteria.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[BIGBREW]

You are talking about a water heater.

A powered anode will provide the protection that a similar length magnesium anode would provide, but not contribute to H2S generation. I prefer the Ceranode powered anode because you get the length, despite it costing more.

Cheaper, but not as effective, is to use an aluminum anode rod. Still it protects the tank some, and it does not support the SRB as much as magnesium.

Sanitizing your well and plumbing and WH can provide time without the SRB-generated H2S. How much time? Not sure. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing writeup.

Increasing the temperature of the WH can reduce the activity of the SRB. But there is danger of scalding. SRB are sulfate reducing bacteria.

I'll look into that rod right now.

I've used your sanitizing write up before. It's cold as F@c% in NY right now. I'll wait till spring on that one.

Would an on demand tank be more efficient? I use propane for forced air/hot water tank. I can get the electric rod but in the end which way is more efficient? I can plan on replacing this tank with on demand in 3 years if that's the case.

Reach, as always thank you for your tips and tricks.

 

[Reach4]

They don't have anodes.

More efficient? Where they gain efficiency is due to not having standby losses. Save space.
Not having stuff going up the chimney. The more efficient ones bring in air from outside for combustion, and eject the combustion products outside via PVC or stainless steel.

They seem more complex, with more to go wrong. They get flushed out annually to remove deposits. Hard water should be softened.

The condensing units will have a drain that drains acidic water. That would get neutralized before going into any metal pipes.

But pretty much needs natural gas to be good. 200,000 BTUs or so-- more than many furnaces. So few have enough electric power being delivered to the house for that.

 

[John Gayewski]

If your tank has rotting problems a tankless will too. You'll also be spending boocoo bucks each time it rots. Work on the anode situation that's very important.

 

[Bannerman]

I recall recommending in your other thread to obtain a lab test for your raw well water. Water conditions may be contributing to the degradation of your water heater so a lab test will assist to identify problem water conditions so appropriate treatment methods maybe considered.

A sulfur odour that is experienced in hot water but not in cold is usually indicative of a reaction of the water with the anode. The most common sacrificial anode materials are magnesium, aluminium and aluminium-zinc alloy. Often, replacing a magnesium anode with an alternate material will resolve a HW odour issue while continuing to provide WH corrosion protection. There are also powered anodes available that will provide corrosion protection in a different manner than a sacrificial anode.

 

[BIGBREW]

I recall recommending in your other thread to obtain a lab test for your raw well water. Water conditions may be contributing to the degradation of your water heater so a lab test will assist to identify problem water conditions so appropriate treatment methods maybe considered.

A sulfur odour that is experienced in hot water but not in cold is usually indicative of a reaction of the water with the anode. The most common sacrificial anode materials are magnesium, aluminium and aluminium-zinc alloy. Often, replacing a magnesium anode with an alternate material will resolve a HW odour issue while continuing to provide WH corrosion protection. There are also powered anodes available that will provide corrosion protection in a different manner than a sacrificial anode.

Ordering one today!! Never thought water would be such a pain in the..........

 

[Utelectrode]

You may replace it with a magnesium rod, zinc rod ( most of them can work for 3-5 years; or you may replace it with a powered titanium anode rod which can use for 10-20 years. Of course, powered titanium anode rod is much expensive than magnesium rod.