Water softening system questions

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adityaag

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I’ve got a few sets of questions about installing a new water softening system in my home.

First, I’m trying to figure out what all I should be looking for in my water softening system. I’m on city water with 16 gpg of hardness with 2.5 baths in the house and 3/4” copper supply lines on the main. Everything I’ve seen has been recommending a Fleck 5600SXT head. I’m uncertain if there are better valves I should explore. I don’t actually have a whole lot of room in my utility room, so I’m curious to see if there’s a decent, compact, single unit design. I’d also appreciate any dealer recommendations for Northern NJ.

Second, I had Costco’s recommended EcoWater installer come out today and they of course did a sales pitch and told me all about chlorine, etc. that I should be aiming to get out and the standard EcoWater units deal with. That seemed like a pure sales tactics but it made me curious.. I was already considering a pre-filter but I wanted to see if it’s generally worth it on city water. I’d aim for either a sediment/carbon filter. I don’t really want to have a second backwashing filter so I’d probably go with a disposable filter type if there’s a decent recommendation. FWIW, my city water report says avg of 0.4 ppm chlorine.

Third is around how I should run my new water lines. My space isn’t plumbed out for a softener so I’ll have to make some cuts. I’m considering using 1” PEX to/from the 3/4” copper main to make sure I don’t lose pressure. The alternative to me is running 3/4” copper but that’s just obviously more effort. Which of those would be a reasonable plan? As for the drain, I’ve got the option to run the drain like to the utility sink or tap directly into my sewer line and add an air gap adapter in. Is there a preferred method for this? I’ve never cut into a sanitary line before so it’ll be a learning experience if that’s the preferred method.

I’ve got two of these to install so definitely trying to do it myself to save a ton on install costs and markups. Thanks!
 

ditttohead

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Chlorine/chemical reduction is preferred but BB filter is not a good way to do it. A properly designed unit can accommodate this without using a system that costs half of what a new car does. Using 1" pex is fine. How close is the main line to where the softener will be installed. Draining to your sink is preferred but what happens if someone leaves laundry in the sink and it overflows? Will this cause water damage? Just some things to consider. The 5600SXT is a decent valve, a bit dated. There are better valves out there.
 

adityaag

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Chlorine/chemical reduction is preferred but BB filter is not a good way to do it. A properly designed unit can accommodate this without using a system that costs half of what a new car does. Using 1" pex is fine. How close is the main line to where the softener will be installed. Draining to your sink is preferred but what happens if someone leaves laundry in the sink and it overflows? Will this cause water damage? Just some things to consider. The 5600SXT is a decent valve, a bit dated. There are better valves out there.

Thanks for the quick reply. In one house, the main is across an 8’ wide room or so. I’d likely run the PEX across the ceiling and down an 8’ high ceiling so total of probably 15’ each way of PEX with a single run the whole way. From what I hear 3/4” PEX would be a bad idea given the reduced diameter along the way. Sounds like that plan seems reasonable then?

As for the drainage.. we don’t use the utility sink for anything at all actually so not worried about backup there. You mentioned that’s the preferred install compared to direct sanitary line connection.. is there a reason for that?

As for valves, I’m open to learning about some newer valves and the benefits. I really couldn’t find alternatives since what I’m hearing is Fleck has gone with dealer restrictions for their newer models?

Thanks again!
 

adityaag

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Chlorine/chemical reduction is preferred but BB filter is not a good way to do it. A properly designed unit can accommodate this without using a system that costs half of what a new car does. Using 1" pex is fine. How close is the main line to where the softener will be installed. Draining to your sink is preferred but what happens if someone leaves laundry in the sink and it overflows? Will this cause water damage? Just some things to consider. The 5600SXT is a decent valve, a bit dated. There are better valves out there.

Last, on the chlorine/chemical filtration, did you mean the softener could take care of it? My reason for not wanting a second backwashing tank is more from space usage really... my utility closets aren’t very large so I’m trying to not go crazy on equipment!
 
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