Water softening / filtration noob question

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Plumbingnoob

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A 1/2 hp submersible's gpm rating usually is good for up to a 1.5 cuft AN filter.

What did you use to get that info? Anything about the well driller so you could call them and give them your address or the previous owner's name?

Hi Gary,

My name is Gary as well... Below the yellow sticker in the first picture on the pressure tank (in original post) is actually the pump motor nameplate information. I did also call the installers of the well pump who have their contact information on the pressure tank (yellow sticker) and they actually were able to tell me the GPM (7 GPM). I am in the process of requesting additional information from them but they did install the pump in 2009.
 

Gary Slusser

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Hi Gary. Take the well casing cap off the casing and turn it over, there may be depth etc. info on it. You can use a fish bobber on some line to find the static water level. Just don't get it stuck. You can measure the ID of the well casing. Hopefully it is not a metal casing with your pH as low as it is.

Since you are from MD, my guess is you'll have a 6" casing. There's no way to guess how deep the pump is unless you know the depth of the well. Or can find a receipt for the pump or well. A 1/2 hp is usually used down to like 150' with a static water level like down to say 50-75'. A 7 gpm set like that would deliver more than 7 gpm until the static or dynamic water level fell to like 100' or so. And I'm going by an old guy memory here...
 

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Checking back in... Did it myself (replaced combo unit) yesterday. Took suggestions from *********** based off my current conditions and they recommended two BAN tanks and a softener with reverse osmosis for kitchen sink. Ordered everything last sunday and received it on Wednesday. Took all day to install yesterday (started at 730 am and finished programming last unit at 1030 pm). I will post pictures when i get a chance. The acid neutralizer is definitely working though because my ph testing strips are turning colors ive never seen before! Total equipment cost: 2450 dollars which does not include the 100 dollars and two trips i took to home depot for fittings primer and sealant
 

Reach4

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What is BAN? Is that your abbreviation for Backwashing Acid Neutralizer?
 

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What is BAN? Is that your abbreviation for Backwashing Acid Neutralizer?
Yes, that is correct.

Here are pictures of after my Dad and I finished installing:
IMG01.jpgIMG02.jpgIMG03.jpgIMG04.jpgIMG05.jpg

I think we over corrected the pH though :mad: The water sort of has a slimy feel to it and the cheap inaccurate pH strips are indicating the water is very basic. One of the BAN tanks has 1/2 cu. ft of Corosex which is probably why. Luckily, we installed bypass valves on each so I can mess around with bypassing that tank to see what types of results I get. I am going to get water tested today at pool store to see where we stand. Total mixture content = 2.5 cu. ft of calcite and 0.5 cu. ft of Flo Mag (corosex). However, I did not let everything backwash completely yet due to time restrictions and the backwashing cycle is set for once every three days...going to monitor the water throughout the week.

pH level measurements at pressure tank before installation:
Pool store: Less than 6.2
Dad's friend who performs work on cooling towers (commercial grade equipment): 5.2
Cheap inaccurate pH testing strips: 4-5 (pH of approximately 4.5)

pH at kitchen sink after installation of new equipment:
To be determined
 
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Reach4

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That looks really nice.

I bought some cheap pH strips that I don't really trust. My Hydrion high range chlorine test strips are really fast acting and unambiguous. If I buy pH strips again, I think I would try Hydrion Urine & Saliva pH Paper 5.5-8.0

Hach has the 5-B softness measuring kit that everybody likes. They also offer a pH meter, but it needs to be calibrated with buffer solutions which are not included with the meter. I don't know how often that has to be done. They also offer http://www.hach.com/ph-test-kit-4-0-10-0-ph-model-17n/product?id=7640214955&callback=pf which uses titration like the 5-B kit, but it is pretty expensive.
 
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Plumbingnoob

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That looks really nice.

I bought some cheap pH strips that I don't really trust. My Hydrion high range chlorine test strips are really fast acting and unambiguous. If I buy pH strips again, I think I would try Hydrion Urine & Saliva pH Paper 5.5-8.0

Hach has the 5-B softness measuring kit that everybody likes. They also offer a pH meter, but it needs to be calibrated with buffer solutions which are not included with the meter. I don't know how often that has to be done. They also offer http://www.hach.com/ph-test-kit-4-0-10-0-ph-model-17n/product?id=7640214955&callback=pf which uses titration like the 5-B kit, but it is pretty expensive.

It's amazing how hard it is to trust any type of pH testing equipment out there. The strips are really good for one thing and that is letting you know if you have acid or basic water. I am going to have a hard time trusting the pool store is they say my conditions are perfect. After doing some more research I've come to the realization the slimy feel of the water is probably due to me not being used to soft water. I have not yet installed the reverse osmosis under kitchen sink yet. I've noticed a metallic type smell coming from the water which is probably associated with the water heater anode rod. I'm going to take a peak at that some time this week and hopefully replace that if needed
 

Reach4

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After doing some more research I've come to the realization the slimy feel of the water is probably due to me not being used to soft water. I have not yet installed the reverse osmosis under kitchen sink yet. I've noticed a metallic type smell coming from the water which is probably associated with the water heater anode rod. I'm going to take a peak at that some time this week and hopefully replace that if needed

Good point.

I put in a powered anode. Expect to need a 1-1/8 inch impact socket and impact wrench to pull your existing anode. They are put in much tighter than is needed, plus they corrode in place on top of that.

I used teflon tape to put the anode in. Yes, you need an electrical connection, but it does not take much for the threads to cut though the teflon and make a good electrical connection. I probably only used 10 or 15 ft-pounds. No leak.

Do you have much iron in your water?
 

Plumbingnoob

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Good point.

I put in a powered anode. Expect to need a 1-1/8 inch impact socket and impact wrench to pull your existing anode. They are put in much tighter than is needed, plus they corrode in place on top of that.

I used teflon tape to put the anode in. Yes, you need an electrical connection, but it does not take much for the threads to cut though the teflon and make a good electrical connection. I probably only used 10 or 15 ft-pounds. No leak.

Do you have much iron in your water?

No iron in the water detected according to the Pool Store but who knows if I can trust it. Iron bacteria evidence is apparent in the back of the toilets (orange stuff) in our new house since the water is just sitting there and the toilets haven't really been used. I don't see any orange staining in any of the fixtures but I do see it in the dishwasher...most likely in the dishwasher because the upper and lower racks are rusting (have actually split apart and seperated in some areas) and some of the rust is probably bleeding off.
 

Reach4

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I like my Seachem multitest iron test kit.

Anode reactions are normally associated with a sulfur smell. You don't see the term "metallic smell" used to describe well water that often. But then smell is a big part of taste. Was the test that the pool company did for iron on the raw well water, or post-softener?

The water softener can remove iron, but depending on how much iron you have, you may need to treat the softener periodically. How is the water taste pre-softener vs post-softener?

Galvanized pipes can cause rust stain.
 

Plumbingnoob

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I like my Seachem multitest iron test kit.

Anode reactions are normally associated with a sulfur smell. You don't see the term "metallic smell" used to describe well water that often. But then smell is a big part of taste. Was the test that the pool company did for iron on the raw well water, or post-softener?

The water softener can remove iron, but depending on how much iron you have, you may need to treat the softener periodically. How is the water taste pre-softener vs post-softener?

Galvanized pipes can cause rust stain.

The pool store test was done off the water directly out of the pressure tank (before entering any filtration equipment). I believe I used the Home Depot water quality test as well and iron did not show up as positive. My wife thought the smell smelt like fish but I thought it smelt more like a minerally type of smell.
 
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